Jump to content

Marks on Fuji Neopan Acros


canwewin

Recommended Posts

<p>Hello,<br /> <br />I have a problem with my last two rolls of Neopan Acros.<br /> As you see in the attached picture there are some marks that look like water marks, on the left<br /> I use distilled water for everything, for the final bath in wetting agent as well, never had a problem with water marks.<br /> I tried to re-fix, re-wash, but the marks are still there.<br /> I think it might be exhausted fixer....cause i know that Neopan do exhaust fixer more quickly, from now on 5 rolls and then fresh fixer<br /> <br /> Advices?<br /> Thank you<br /><br /> <br /> L.<br /><br /></p>

<p> </p><div>00baHY-533695584.jpg.ee7a991f6005898a5a49f4a197bf802f.jpg</div>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Thank you guys!<br>

Photo Flo was fresh with distilled water. Shouldn't rewash fix the problem? If they were onyl water marks they should be gone after a rewash or not? It's something fixed on the emulsion....i think, or at least it's my best guess.</p>

<p>L.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>My guess is, this is watermarks. These are caused by uneven shrinkage of the film emulsion during the drying cycle. The light sensitive emulsion coat consist of light sensitive salts of silver suspended in clear gelatin. When the developing process is completed we soak the film, for a few seconds in a wetting agent such as Kodak Photo-Flo. This breaks the static tension of water causing it to "sheet" off so the film can dry evenly.</p>

<p>To promote even drying, hang the film in clean dry place and pass a squeegee or sponge down its length to remove residual water droplets. If water droplets are allowed to remain, the film will not uniformly dry. What happens is, as film dries the wet, now swollen gelatin shrinks. Water drops locally retard drying and the shrink rate under the water drop becomes different from its surrounds.</p>

<p>Usually, uneven drying causes permanent damage. You can try soaking the film is Photo-Flo and re-drying. If this fails, try soaking in a dilute solution of glycerin in water. </p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Thanks for the help.<br>

There's only one thing that drives me crazy:<br>

I've never experienced such thing, it did happen when I started using modern film like Neopan Acros or Tmax.<br>

Is there a relation?<br>

Thank you</p>

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Also try hanging your film diagonally to dry.<br /> This means the water drops do not run down the length of the film but have a shorter distance to travel.</p>

<p>And you coud try adding a capful of 90% Isoprpyl Alcohol to you final rinse, it makes the film dry much faster.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Yes, most definitely watermarks. As Alan says they result from uneven drying/shrinkage of the emulsion and are usually impossible to remove. I do my final rinse in ordinary tap water but I use either Paterson Acuwet or Tetenal Mirasol wetting agent at 2-3 drops per hundred ml of water. I then allow the negs to hang in the dryer for at least an hour before turning it on.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I do not use a squeegee because I'm afraid of scratching either side of the film. There was a dryer which would hold a stainless steel reel and spin it at a high speed. It had an air blower and a filter for the air intake. A good shake of the reel before removing the film can also help.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Thanks everyone for the replies!<br>

I guess I'll try recommended photoflo ratio, as usual with distilled water. I read that some alcohol will help prevent stains, urban legend or true fact?<br>

Anyway thank you everyone!</p>

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>In many instances, it was necessary to print just developed negatives, as soon as possible. To accomplish, darkroom technicians often printed wet (no time to allow the film to dry. Sometimes film was placed in an alcohol bath after the wash step. The idea was, alcohol displaces the water retained in the gelatin emulsion of the film. Alcohol being a volatile liquid, evaporated rapidly thus this procedure was commonplace.</p>

<p>Alcohol will not help prevent drying marks. The best procedure is a 30-second bath in Photo-Flo followed by a careful squeegee to remove water droplets.</p>

<p>Using distilled or deionizer water is helpful as this water will be devoid of minerals. </p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...