Manual Focus - professional wedding/event shooters?

<p>Recently, I've been turning into an available light shooter for a lot of the events and weddings I've been attending (using flash very very sparingly as it draws too much attention). I am very inspired by Jeff Ascough, UK wedding photographer, who is very into the whole "unobtrusive" approach to documenting a day. I have been described as a ninja photographer for the way I sometimes stand or crouch when taking a photo ;) But otherwise, I too would like to develop myself into an unobtrusive photographic observer style photographer.<br>

Anyways, I've been gone back and forth between autofocus and manual focus but am caught between the accuracy of autofocus (but the limitations of the composition due to the way the focus points are layed out in my Pentax K20D) and manual focus composition ability.<br>

Ideally, I'd like to use manual focus because my preferred focus point may not be the one that is layed out on the camera, which means I have to recompose my images to put the subject in focus. In otherwords, autofocus tends to mess with my composition.<br>

I believe Jeff Ascough still manual focuses his images. Are there professionals out there who use manual focus mainly during events/weddings?</p>

<p>I typically use auto focus just because I don't trust my eye enough through that little tiny viewfinder....</p>

<p>I'm not familiar with the K20D, but if you're serious about manual focus, you might need to go to an aftermarket focus screen. Most AF screens are optimized for brightness and lack the necessary "tooth" to ascertain sharp focus on the ground glass.</p>

<p>I haven't done it in a few years, but I used to shoot for fun at family & friends weddings using an old pair of Nikon F2AS bodies equipped with E screens and very fast glass. My style was very much "observational", and since I was not the paid shooter, I didn't need to deal with the expected "set piece" photos. I had fun, they like the photos, I stayed out of the paid shooter's way - everybody wins.</p>

<p>hey Johnathan, I'm just curious what lens you use for this. I think that Ascough guy, uses a 5DII with a bigger viewfinder than the k20D and L primes, that are f1.4 and 1.2. I think the more vf realestate and extra light from the f1.4s make it much easier to manual focus (and AF come to think of it).</p>

<p>Wow, another Pentax shooter! We should form a club.</p>

<p>I agree with Melissa that it is <em>difficult</em> to focus through the finder. However, if it's difficult for me—either because the light is low or because there's nothing particularly contrasty in the scene to focus on—it's probably also difficult for the camera's autofocus system, too. A Katz-Eye focusing screen can help a little. I have one on just one of my cameras.</p>

<p>To your question. First, for a long time I've worked with autofocus disconnected from the shutter button. On your K20D, you set that by going to</p>

<p>Menu: Custom Setting: #13 = 1</p>

<p>Menu: Custom Setting: #14 = 2</p>

<p>The first of those settings enables the AF button to turn autofocus on. The second one disconnect autofocus from the shutter button.</p>

<p>So for the last couple of years, when I use autofocus, I use it deliberately, by pressing the AF button. This way, if you have the focus right and you're confirmed that, you don't have to keep refocusing so long as you and the subject remain the same distance from one another. NOTE that the K20D doesn't have an AF button on the battery grip, so if you use the grip and shoot in portrait orientation, well, you'll have to give up on the shutter on the grip and continue to grab around with your right hand. I feel comfortable doing that anyway so it's not a big deal for me.</p>

<p>Remember also that the camera's autofocus system can help you out, even if you focus manually. Say you have focus-point selection mode set to center-spot and have autofocus tied to the shutter (Menu > Custom Settings > #14 = 1), then if you touch the shutter button lightly while you focus manually, you when the center spot is in focus, you will see the little red blink in the center of the finder and the camera will also display the in-focus diamond (the little hexagonal thingy). So basically you can control the focus yourself but get the camera to confirm for you. This is something I've just started taking advantage of but it seems like the best of both worlds. Note that it works also if you use SEL focus-point selection (you'll get focus confirmation when the selected focus point is in focus) and it works also even if you disconnect autofocus from the shutter and tie it to the AF button instead, but in that case, you have to touch the AF button at the start of each shot to get this confirmation.</p>

<p>In certain circumstances I think real autofocus (not just confirmation) works better, simply because I don't have TIME to focus manually. But more and more I focus manually when I have time. One of the nice things about the K20D is that I can get to ALL of the necessary controls without having to take my eye from the finder.</p>

<p>Will</p>

<p>For Canon maximium accuracy manual focus, you still need the EG-S screen. Maybe Pentax makes an equivalent? For Canon, there isn't much difference between focusing with a f2.8 lens or a f1.2 lens with the kit screen because the kit screens are optimized for brightness- it's a bit like putting a fresnel glass on 4x5- they're much brighter, but harder to manually focus. I think Canon does this because so many consumers buy a kit with a f4ish lens and never turn the autofocus off. Maybe it's just cheaper. Who knows? Maybe someone else with more Canon-esquitude knows why they do what they do and can explain it better. Once the EG-S is on, it's a bit brighter with 2.8 and significantly brighter with even faster lenses and obviously, easier to manually focus. I wouldn't use anything slower than a f2.8 lens after the screen is on because it gets dark quick. You can still see the squares in the viewfinder when you want to use autofocus, but it seems fainter to me. It could be that my eyesight ain't what it used to be.</p>

<p>I wish Canon had done a better job on the 5Dii's autofocus system. I would gladly trade the ability to make movies for a better af system. I had a 1V and it's af system was infinitely better.</p>

<p>It's really not a question of either or......there are times when it's easier to use zone focus, where you pre-set the focus and allow the subject to step into the zone, or you estimate the distance to your focus point and adjust manually. It generally takes very little time to auto focus on your point (in most light conditions) and hold the focus briefly while you re-compose the frame.</p>

<p>I don't use manual focus 'mainly'. I use it when it makes sense or autofocus won't cut it.</p>

<p>While it is good to be inspired by wedding photographers, realize that Jeff Ascough used to use Leicas, which are rangefinder cameras with a whole different focusing system than TTL autofocusing in DSLRs now. He might be more used to using manual focus (I'm not saying he is or isn't). Also, he uses pro level cameras and fast lenses, which have more accurate autofocus than the semi-pro level cameras and allow more light in to more accurately manual focus. My point is--just because he uses manual focus 'mainly', doesn't mean you should. You have a different camera, different lenses and different history.</p>

<p>If you find autofocus messes with your composition, use manual focus and don't worry about what others do. Many photographers switch to manual focus when using fast lenses wide open, because autofocus sometimes can't focus as accurately. The speed in which you need the focus is also a factor. If you have the time, good, but if not, you can't be messing with manual focus unless you are pre or zone focusing. In other words, use what is successful for you.</p>

<p>You can, of course, support that success by using aids, if they exist for your camera. I have a KatzEye screen for my 20D, and it helped me manual focus. Since the 20D, autofocus has improved, so I don't have other screens in my cameras. You might try a split image screen and see if it helps you. I personally like the split image with the fine textured 'doughnut' around it.</p>

<p><strong><em>@ Melissa</em></strong> - I totally know what you mean. I love my old Pentax P30t film camera as the viewfinder is HUGE!</p>

<p><strong><em>@ Todd Peach</em></strong> - observational photos are a lot of fun :) I have the Katzeye Screen installed on my k20D and it works pretty good. But I think my eyes have a tough time finding that point of 100% sharpness...</p>

<p><strong><em>@ Russell</em></strong> - My go to lenses are DA16-45 F4 (wide angle), FA31 Ltd F1.8 (normal), DA*55 F1.4 (portrait), FA77 Ltd F1.8 (portrait). (I also have the DA40 F2.8 Ltd and DA21 Ltd F3.2 as backup lenses.) Not the fastest out there but they get the job done! I usually shoot around F2 to F2.8</p>

<p><strong><em>@ William</em></strong> - Woo hoo!! Pentaxians unite! I think the issue for me is that the FA Limiteds don't have quick shift so using the AF button to autofocus doesn't really do anything since I have to switch to "MF" mode on the focusing mode dial (which disconnects some device inside). I have used the AF points in MF mode as guides but sometimes they're wrong!! LOL. I too love the K20D and I've been sticking to autofocus recently... but I really enjoy my photos more when I do manual focus. </p>

<p><strong><em>@ senor</em></strong> - I believe Canon AF is supposedly faster than Pentax AF in low light. I would also think the 5Dii AF system is pretty good considering the price? But I'm coming from semi-pro Pentax bodies which kind of struggle in very low light compared to crazy pro bodies $$$ and I've also never really used other camera brands in dark event situations. I believe Jeff Ascough uses a special focusing screen from Canon (EG-S or something?) on his 5D Mark II's. And I don't think my eyesight is what it should be either!!</p>

<p><strong><em>@ David</em></strong> - I'm trying to find a workflow for myself where I know when to use AF and when to use MF. AF seems to dominate due to its consistency and speed (although there is the frustrating occasional hunt). I prefer not to recompose since some of my shots are at F1.8 or lower and moving the camera a bit may throw off the focus with that thin kind of DOF. Guess I'm more into "see it and take it right there".</p>

 

For close ups, macro type of work, it's manual only. The cameras and flash units have a lot to do with auto focus. For example if you want to photograph the bride with the groom in the background, sometimes the camera will focus on the groom instead of the bride. In cases like this I usually switch to manual. The rest of the time I'm on auto.

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<p>I think the issue for me is that the FA Limiteds don't have quick shift so using the AF button to autofocus doesn't really do anything since I have to switch to "MF" mode on the focusing mode dial (which disconnects some device inside). I have used the AF points in MF mode as guides but sometimes they're wrong!! </p>

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<p><br /><br>

Jonathan,</p>

<p>I understand your problem with some lenses lacking quick shift. Since several of my lenses (including my Sigma primes) lack it, I never use it even with lenses that have it. I don't think about it as an option. If I want to manual focus, I manual focus.</p>

<p>As for the focus confirmation indicator helping: I don't KNOW this for a fact, but I presume that if the autofocus points are wrong when you're using them simply to confirm your manual focus, they'd be wrong if you were using them for real autofocus, too. But of course this cuts both ways, and if the goal is to improve your results by using manual focus, well, I see your point: relying on the focus indicator while using manual focus is just a slower route to the same possibly unsatisfactory destination. And I confess I hadn't considered that.</p>

<p>Nevertheless, if you rely on the autofocus indicator, you are at least no worse off focusing manually. And you do not HAVE to rely on it. The way I have things configured, the focus confirmation icon appears only if I'm pressing the shutter button; if I focus BEFORE pressing the shutter button half way (which is what I usually do) then I'm on my own, which is fine.</p>

<p>I do have the Katz-Eye on the K20D (I just checked). It does help. I'm considering getting another one for my K10D. Still the K20D's finder (like the K10D's) is reasonably bright and quite sharp. The Katz-Eye screen helps, but I can do a nice job without it, if there is SOME light and if there is some contrast to focus on.</p>

<p>And when I need to go back to full autofocus, I just flip up the focus-mode selector switch on the front of the camera with my left hand.</p>

<p>And finally, if I'm having trouble focusing manually, I do as David Schilling suggests, and set the focus by distance. I always feel a bit iffy about this but it does seem to work reasonably well. </p>

<p>One of the many reasons that I have been using MF more lately is that some of my lenses (especially the Sigma 105 f/2.8) are a bit noisy and have a tendency to hunt for focus in low light, say, inside a church. In that circumstance it's both easier and less obtrusive to use manual focus.</p>

<p>I would not call myself an ace at it yet, but I use it mainly for shots where I'm not in a huge hurry. And I am confident that the more I use manual focus, the better I'll get. </p>

<p>Will </p>

 

<p>I disagree, Jeff Ascough is a SUPERB photographer but he is far,far,far from discreet/unobtrusive as he shoots with short length primes, I have seen videos off his shooting style and he is almost always right in the face of the people he is shooting, which gives him the results that people pay top coin for. There is a balance between shots that are natural candids and surveillance style shots.</p>

<p><strong><em>@ Nadine </em></strong>- thanks for the advice! I have a Katzeye screen on my K20D and it works well but am still trying to find out what the best method is for me and my complete workflow, especially during a wedding or event. I totally know what you mean by using what works in the situation. Ideally, if I can learn when to use MF and when to use AF, I could get the best of both worlds... something I know I have to practice.<br>

By looking at other photogs and their images that really 'click' with me, I find I develop my own sense and style, all the while developing my own view of the world and thus making unique photographs (hopefully!!).</p>

<p><strong><em>@ Bob - </em></strong>yeah, sometimes AF can be fooled or it can take a long time (before just giving up) and I find that to be frustrating. AF is great when it works, not great when it doesn't ;)</p>

<p><strong><em>@ William - </em></strong>I was messing around with my camera yesterday and actually, if I turn off AF from the shutter button and instead link it to the AF button, I think I can get focus confirmation (by pressing the AF button) while in manual focus mode! then K20D and K10D are such nice cameras - still eyeing a K-7 :) And you're right, the AF switch is just a flip away.<br>

<br />Actually, when you bring up the noise of focusing (screw drive lenses), you bring up a good point. I was shooting an event where the lighting was almost non-existent and my FA77 was doing the "zzzzzzzzf zzzzzzzf" thing a couple of times before finding focus (lack of contrast and lack of any light in general)!! The poor audience guy next to me trying to listen must've been a little annoyed - yikes! MF would've been a great asset at that time. <br>

<br />I think I just have to really really train my eye to be able to pick out that point of ultimate sharpness. <br />Hopefully with practice, I too can be more confident with manual focus! MF would be ideal if I could pick out shots better than AF in very low light and in fast situations but I have to be honest in saying that many times AF can pick out these details faster and more accurately (at a cost of composition sometimes).</p>

<p><strong><strong><em>@ dip </em>- </strong></strong>I think Jeff described himself as unobtrusive and discreet in the mannerisms in which he photographs. You're right that his style in pretty "in your face", which is sort of the opposite a lot of us think as "discreet". Dare I say it, but it's probably more along the lines of "in the action" photojournalism? Correct me if I'm wrong.<br>

<br />The funny thing is I'm beginning to use more wide angle short-length primes! 16mm on crop sensor is my new "normal" lens! haha<br>

<strong><em><br /></em></strong></p>

<p>I would only use MF on a crop body when I needed to.</p>

<p>AF is designed for a variety of purposes. The most common use of it, I believe, is to focus recompose. That means using the center point to AF only, then recomposing. If you use an evaluative metering mode versus manual mode, you can use a custom function to get the focus button on the back of you camera. * or some button will likely be the candidate. Once you are used to it, its da bomb.</p>

I myself, do not want to be discreet. I'm always close by to where the action is, but not in the faces. With me near the action, the bride knows I will capture the moments. In my opinion, staying in the side lines, using long 200mm lenses is not the best way to grab the images the brides usually want. I also feel the photographer can get in the way of things, so you need to be able to sense this through the reactions of people. Also blasting the bride and groom with 2000 flashes will give them the gitters. This is why I often use flash units high up on 12 foot stands and no flash on my camera.

 

At receptions I'm using the 16-35mm lens maybe 70 to 80 percent of the time.

<p>Well, after trying to get my Manual Focus technique down ... it appears that my eyes are so bad that I can't manual focus adequately all the time. And yes, tried contact lenses.<br>

Looks like it'll be autofocus for me, with manual focus for the odd time I really really need it. I guess we just gotta use what works best for us! And as i've tested and tried, looks like its autofocus (Selective point) for me.</p>