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Mamiya RZ ProII and Studio Flash


william_markey

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<p>Just want to see if I'm guessing right before I try it and waste film/money. I tried looking this up in the instruction manual, but it is not covered.</p>

<p>To use the RZ with studio lighting and radio transmitter (instead of sync cord), would I simply just put the radio transmitter in the RZ body hot shoe and fire away? Or does the radio transmitter (while in the hot shoe) have to be connected via sync cord to the lens in order for everything to work correctly?</p>

<p>Thanks for your help!</p>

 

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<p>Yes and no. The hot shoe (being hot) will work fine for normal use. But if you want to shoot mirror-up, you have to use a sync cord to the lens.</p>

<p>Given the fast shutter speeds (and even faster exposure times from the strobes) you get with studio work, I'm not sure MLU is required.</p>

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<p>I was trying to remember why I used MLU last time I shot with mine...thinking "Wow, it would be a lot easier to just trigger the shutter once". You have to recock the mirror with every frame anyways, and the sound of it slapping tends to make people (kids at least) think that you took the photo. So they move before the flashes and shutter fire. :-)</p>

<p>And I was shooting with my digital back, so that's a THIRD trigger that needs to be pressed to wake the back up. So maybe I'll simplify it a bit next time. I did get the double cable release, so I guess that's close enough. </p>

<p>So I guess the better question is...how to you plan to trigger the camera? There's an electronic release on the left side of the camera, but for the life of me, I can't see what difference that makes over using the mechanical release on the right side.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Makes sense. </p>

<p>I got an adapter which allows a cable release to trigger the electronic release, but I can't see why there'd be any reason to do that. Apparently, that release was primarily put in to integrate with the left hand release, but to convert it back to "manual" seems a bit foolish. Looks like it might be a necessary hassle if using a T/S lens.</p>

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<p>I am using Elinchrom Sky Ports and to trigger studio strobes properly it's not enough for the transmitter to be in the hot shoe, it has to be connected to the sync socket on the lens as well, otherwise the strobes won't fire. That's with regular use and not mirror lock up only. <br>

I hope this helps.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>I use my RZ Pro with AB cybersync and Skyports off the hotshoe only with no issues. One of the reasons I chose the RZ was the hotshoe for flash triggering<br>

The other guy must have a malfunctioning body. My friends RZ Pro II works the same way.<br>

Shutter speeds above 125th have not been any issue either.</p>

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<p>You're absolutely right. The hotshoe works on its own, I have just checked. My conviction came from the fact that I have had misfires on the first frame without the sync cable. However, having played with it this morning I probably see why. When hand held, you can very easily slide the elinchrom skyport off ever so slighlty, without it falling off entirely and you noticing it. It doesn't make full contact with the hotshoe and won't trigger the flash. So something to look out for!<br>

cheers!</p>

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  • 2 months later...

<ol> </ol>

<p>This is not a Chicken vs The Egg question. It's clear; the mirror moves first, followed by the shutter.</p>

<p>Timing of the flash; the completion or closing of the circuit that fires the flash,<br>

is accomplished solely by the firing of the in-lens shutter, not the movement of the mirror. </p>

<p>Doesn't matter if you use the sync socket on the lens, with or w/out MLU, or the hot shoe,<br>

the flash won't fire until the in-lens shutter fires. <br>

A couple of the gold-pin contacts, from the lens, to camera body interface, carries the flash signal from the in-lens shutter contacts, back into the body, and through the hot shoe. When the shutter fires, the circuit is simultaneously closed for the on-lens sync socket as well. </p>

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