Mamiya C330 Shutter Stuck (not lens)

Discussion in 'Medium Format' started by ben_nauber, Apr 10, 2012.

  1. Hi all,
    First a little background: Mamiya C330. Was doing a long exposure with a cable release. Thought I closed the shutter (but apparently hadn't) and advanced the film while the shutter was open. This ended the role of film but also made the film advance winder difficult to move. Regrettably, I forced it until it loosened up and wound through the end of the film.
    Since then, the shutter on the body will not fire. I've tried removing the lens (lens functions perfectly), opening/closing the back, switching from single to multi-exposure, but nothing fires the shutter on the body. Don't know if that's the write lingo, but basically the small metal switch on the body (the shutter cocking lever?) is immovable and hence doesn't allow for the shutter on the lens to cock.
    Does anyone know what might have happened? Will it require a professional repair/CLA or is it something that I can fix? Also, I'm in San Francisco... can anyone recommend anyone good in the Bay Area?
    Best,
    Ben Nauber
     
  2. Always read and understand the owners/operator manual before operating your equipment.
    Read pages 3 and 4, (PDF pages 5 and 6) of the owners manual.
    http://www.cameramanuals.org/mamiya_pdf/mamiya_c300f_prof-1.pdf
    The body shutter, as you call it, is actually called a 'light baffle.'
    Basically, the only time you close or lower the light baffle is when you change lenses, mid-roll.
    It is at times such as this, when having a sacrificial roll of film is handy.
    Remove the lens from the body. Fire the lens shutter manually, set aside. Set the multi exposure knob to multi. Place an empty take-up spool in the upper film well. Open the light baffle. See if you are able to turn advance lever, and fire chin shutter.
     
  3. "Thought I closed the shutter" - no need to think about it, just look into the taking lens and you will see the iris of the central in-lens shutter closed. The light baffle should stay open for your shooting experience, as this is irrelevant. Do not fiddle with the baffle, use it as described by Marc.
    If you close the light baffle. then you cannot take pictures, and forcing the winder will result in some camera damage.
    The manual on page 4 lists conditions when you absolutely should not force anything.
     
  4. Apologies, I don't think I was very clear. I get what the light baffle is. It's controlled by the lock/unlock switch on the side and it allows you to change lenses without exposing the film. I'm talking about that little metal piece on the front of the body. When you put the lens in, it sits directly underneath the shutter cocking lever on the lens. I'm guessing when you advance the film, it's supposed to cock the lens shutter as you wind the lever? Well, that doesn't happen anymore. The only way that I can get the shutter to fire is if I cock the shutter manually first before pressing the button.
     
  5. so, it looks like your C330 was reduced to work like the lesser automated C220 model.
    E.g. Pentax 6x7 leaf shutter lenses had to have leaf shutter cocked to us it, in addiditon to automated cocking of the focal plane shutter that advances the film. Many frames unexposed by just forgetting to cock the leaf shutter lens.
    If you cannot live with it as is, perhaps a camera repair shop could fix it. It is some sort of mechanical damage, bent levers, etc. but one must have some experience to fix it.
     
  6. Ben-take another look. The shutter cocking lever,on the front panel, sits ABOVE the cocking lever on the side of the lens unit.(as normally set).
    This lever is designed to move down to cock the shutter,and move up to allow the shutter to fire.
    You have just allowed the mechanism to get 'out of whack'.
    A few minutes watching the operation should set you right.
     
  7. but one must have some experience to fix it.​
    Except when you do it for the first time.
    If you do a search, you should be able to find a very comprehensive C330 repair manual in PDF form which shows exploded views of the camera's mechanisms. That should show where the problem is.
     

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