curtis_nelson Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 I remember reading somewhere about how you can cut out different sized openings in cardstock, and then by looking through these openings, you can get an idea of how the image will look with different focal-length lenses. Does anyone have the specifics on making cards for 150mm and 90mm lenses? How big are the cutouts, and how far from my eyes do I hold the cards? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timothy_hettinger Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 Make a card with a hole cut out the size of the format you are working (4 x 5). View your subject through the hole, and find the desired composition. The distance from your eye will be the same as the focal length of the lense you will need to capture that image. In this case, 90mm and 150mm. I believe these cards are also produced for sale at photo shops, but it is pretty simple to just cut out some cardboard. tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralph_barker Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 <center> <img border=2 src="http://www.rbarkerphoto.com/misc/FramingAid1-500.jpg"> </center> <p>Tie the knots (sequentially, please) at distances from the card equal to the focal lengths of your available lenses. Hold the knot against your cheek, just below your eye, to view/compose.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonard_evens Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 Ralph pretty much covered it. Let me add a couple of comments. First, it is helpful to put reference marks at the centers of the edges. They will help you center the frame on what you are looking at. In addition, you should add marks on either side of the center marks indicating the extreme shifts your camera is capable of, combining if necessary both front and back movements. That way, when you move the frame, you will be able to estimate if those movements can be achieved with your camera. You may want to use different marks for short focal length lenses where camera movements may be restricted. Second, I have found that you have to take care when using such a frame with a wide angle lens. It is easy to be misled about what is contained in the frame when it is relatively close to your eye. I often find that I underestimate the field of view and that when I set my camera up, there is more coverage than I expected. In addition, a phenonenon called size constancy causes your visual system to see things larger than their actual optical images if they are further away. This phenomenon may lead you to overestimate the relative size of objects in the frame when used close to the eye. With some practice, you can learn to some extent to compensate for both these factors when you look through the frame. Some people prefer using a different size frame that the film format and adjusting the knots for focal lengths appropriately. For example, you could make a frame with an 8x 10 inch opening and put your knots at twice the focal length distances along the cord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_kent2 Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 I have had some success using readily available Fedex or USPS "express" envelopes. I cut out a ~5 inch by ~6 inch piece from one of the corners, and glue the innards together. Then I cut a 4x5 inch viewing hole in the 5x6 inch piece, and cover everything with tape. I keep the resultant flexible water-resistant viewing card in a pocket in my rain jacket. I needn't worry about replacing the card or using it in torrential downpours. For measuring distances, I use my fist, spread fingers etc. Fedex and USPS both make lots of money on me, so I don't worry about sacrificing their envelopes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cxc Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 Mine has distance markings along the bottom: 65mm, 110mm, etc. I open my hand to the appropriate distance, then use it to measure the distance from eye to card, thus saving the unneeded expense of the string. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralph_barker Posted May 30, 2003 Share Posted May 30, 2003 Chris - great idea (got a real chuckle out of "saving the unneeded expense of the string"), but my short, stubby fingers would limit me to a maximum of a 210mm lens. ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_curry Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 I use a 4x5 cutout from a plastic "for sale" sign and a ruler to measure the distance from the corner of my eye to the frame for a given lens length. Make sure to keep your eye centered in the frame (lens). A friend made a sliding gizmo that uses a smaller opening than 4x5 on a brass strip with graduations for each lens length. Much more sophisticated than I use, his folds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken_lee11 Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 I use one of these for b&w - because it helps you see things in b&w. Depending on the knuckle at which I place the filter, I can replicate the focal lengths of my various lenses. It is available from Calumet. It has the added advantage of being small enough to hang from your neck on a coth cord.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.graemehird.com Posted May 31, 2003 Share Posted May 31, 2003 I use a small tape measure to set the focal length of the frame (as others use the string) and on the reverse side of the tape I've got belows extension exposure factors for each lens marked.<p> Graeme<br> <a href="http://www.goldeneyephoto.com">www.graemehird.com</a> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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