MACO ORTHO 25 in PMK? HC-110??

Has anyone got experience with this film??

 

I bought 4 rolls (120 size) to play with, & shot one today - EI 25,

as per the label.

 

I'd LOVE to process it in PMK (my standard developer) but am thinking

that, since I've not seen ANY processing times for it on the

digitaltruth.com massive developing chart, and haven't seen much

times for it at all, that perhaps I'd do well to just stand develop

it in, say, HC-110 diluted 1:31 or so, which I HAVE used to stand

develop SFX, Delta 400, and FP4, all with liked result.. So, anyone??

I won't be processing it until tuesday, so you've a couple of days to

respond, if you've got any info or experiences to share - both would

be appreciated.

 

 

Thanks!

I processed it in Docufine and it is pretty incredible... Slow, but incredible. I shot it at an E.I of 9 and got tremendous scale, and zero grain... I have also processed it with DR5 and gotten some impressive results. It's a little contrasty through DR5, so I tend to only shoot it on overcast days, or in situations where that's an advantage. If you can't find any Docufine, you could probably use a POTA developer or some other low contrast developer, maybe even Technidol?

 

Isaac

I bought this film in 6,5 x 9 cm sheets. I rated it at 25 and use a low contrast Catechol developer. Maco have their own LP-DOCUFINE LC (low contrast film developer) that is suited for this film. Try it if you can find it. Otherwise you'll have to do your own experiments.

i don't know if this site will help or not; doesn't hurt to try.

http://www.mahn.net/Frameset.htm

Hello everyone. I have just developed my first 120 and 35mm film in this emulsion. PMK-Pyro, 4.5cc A, 9cc B and 450cc water. 10 minutes with a 3 minute presoak. Looks great and prints wonderful. Only problem I see right now is that we all must go back to school and lear how to handle wiggle worms. The polyester backing wants to curl like crazy. Any suggestions on how to tackle this "problem"??? Bill

Thank you!

 

That sounds like the standard PMK dilution, and I was thinking about 10-11 minutes would do it anyway.. So, cool, I'll try 10-11 minutes.. The scenes I shot were pretty low in contrast anyway, so I'm thinking the extra minute (or maybe a little more) could be good. I know I should just shoot whatever, since it's kind of a test roll, but a few of the shots, I'd really like to print! Hmmmm..

 

I don't know what you could do about curling film, but I have not gotten that "problem" since i started doing the series of 7 5-minute soaks in distilled water as a final rinse. I used to get a lot of curling film, when following Ilford's recommendation of filling the tank 3 times with water, and doing the 5, 10, 20 inversions as a final rinse; a process which would take maybe 3 minutes.. The 35-40 minutes I do nowadays seems to help. Maybe I'll post back what the results are like in terms of curl, and proper exposure/development, just so any interested parties have a little reference..