Discussion in 'Lighting Equipment' started by laichungleung, Jun 1, 2021.

  1. For some reason I am fascinated by Lumedyne and I look at the listing on eBay. The problem seems to be finding or making the right batteries. I am not exactly handy but there seems to be some battery online company selling 3rd party batteries so as to re-cell. Is there any clear cook book doc to do such? I can't find any. I see many listings have the bulb and the pack but the battery is either missing or just bad. I know it's year 2021.
  2. Recelling the battery pack is relatively easy, if you are handy with electronics and a soldering iron.
    You CAREFULLY open the battery pack, determine what type of cells are used and how many, then order the cells.
    Then the fun part; take the old cells out without damaging things, soldering the new cells into sets, shrink wrap the sets, solder the sets together then into the pack, put the pack back together.
    On my pack I think it was either 3 sets of 3 cells each, total 9 cells, or 3 sets of 4 each, total 12 cells.

    The original cells are NiCd, I replaced them with NiMH.
    BUT, when you do that, you also need to find and adapt a NiMH charger, as the Lumedyne NiCd charger won't properly charge NiMH cells.

    Warning. Do not get Tenergy NiMH cells. Tenergy overrates their NiMH cells. NONE of my 25+ Tenergy NiMH cells (AA and sub-C) tested anywhere near the rated capacity.
    So if you pay more for a Tenergy HIGH capacity battery, it is wasted money. Because you are not getting the capacity that you think you are getting, and paying extra for.

    I still use my Lumedyne, as a HV pack for my shoe flash.
    The shoe flash recyles FAST, and I don't worry about draining the batteries inside the shoe flash.
    Once you get used to a FAST recycle, it is like drugs, you can't live without it.
  3. i use a pair of Sunpak 120J from eBay. One is powered by a Godox PB960 and the other by the "original" pack with new NiMh cells ordered online. I want to upgrade to Lumedyne mostly for the challenge and irrational yearnings. I bought a qflash model T but it was AS IS and dead on arrival. So right now I am looking at Lumedyne, I have no soldering iron nor do I know anything about electricity.
    When I bought the modified battery pack for the Sunpak 120J I got one Universal Smart Charger 0.6A to 1.2A. I haven't used the battery for a long time and it no longer charges. The guy told me to wake it up, and I have no idea how to wake it up.
    Anyway thanks for the information. I read online it seems like Sanyo people trust.
    If I Google Lumedyne re-cell I also got results of what looks like dynamite cells...So it's out there it's just that I don't know how to go about doing it. I guess I just have to do it do it.
    Sorry about the rambling and thanks again.
  4. If you have not soldered, you need to get a soldering iron and PRACTICE. Soldering is not as easy as some make it out to be.
    And for electronics, you need to use ROSIN core solder, NOT acid core.
    For the batteries, you solder the tabs, NOT the cells. The heat will damage the cells.

    If the batteries for your Sunpak won't take a charge, replace them. Don't bother with trying to "wake it up." The batteries are damaged.
  5. I used to send my Lumedyne batteries to a Batteries Plus location near me (Long Island, NY) where they would re-cell the battery units. Instead of soldering they have a device that will zap a metal tab to a cell without damaging the cell with heat (like a soldering iron can)... I don't remember what they called it. Anyway, the price was right and less of a hassle than doing it myself!

    But I sold all my Lumedyne stuff years ago when I realized the flash duration of the regular packs is SO LONG that I was losing a significant amount of exposure when syncing at 1/250th of a second shutter speed. This also means that the Lumedyne gear really can't freeze action unless you invest in one of their special and expensive "Action" short flash duration packs (which also can't run off an AC adapter). Even portrait photos looked not as sharp or crisp as I would like when using the "regular" Lumedyne packs I owned, and I attribute that to the long flash duration.
    The AC adapter attaches to the bottom of a pack like a battery and it weighs a TON - lots of copper in that transformer. It does not shorten recycling speeds.
    The Lumedyne system also does not have a radio receiver built into it. You have to attach (tape, rubber band, Velcro, etc.) a PocketWizard receiver to the flash head where the sync port is located. It's sort of kludgey...
    The Lumedyne modeling lamp is a joke - only useful in a dark room, and only certain flash heads have a modeling lamp. The switch for the lamp is on the head so if the head is out of reach on a tall stand or boom you're out of luck.

    Honestly, if you need a portable battery powered light system, I'd look at Elinchrom Ranger, various Godox/Flashpoint units, and Alien Bees (with their Li-Ion battery) - all of which have shorter flash durations and all of which have some sort of radio system baked in. Heck, you can do a lot with just speedlights too.
    Just my 2 cents...
  6. I guess part of it is really my unhealthy obsession with anything that's old and cheap and reasonably good. I read they offer fast duration for their action pack. I always wonder how much it helps if one doesn't use hypersync and shoot at top x-sync, say 1/250s and f/16 in broad daylight. Would a very fast duration help? I don't know. When I shoot any action I mostly shoot at 1/30 with flash. I don't try to freeze it. I read Rineke Dijkstra used Lumedyne in her beach portraits. Given it's long duration maybe it works well with hypersync.
  7. There's very little out there that meets that last 'reasonably good' clause.

    I'd try to get rid of that obsession if I were you. Because modern flash equipment is generally streets ahead of what was available in the past (say, more than 20 years ago).
    Hypersynch, HSS or FP synch, call it what you will, is generally a marketing bluff. It does very little to help with synchro-sun light balancing, if anything. Although it does have some use shooting fast-moving subjects in mixed ambient+flash situations.

    The issue with HSS is that as soon as you go above the X-synch shutter speed, the flash effectively loses power. So what was a flash GN of, say, 36 @ 1/250th s, immediately becomes a GN of about 24 @ 1/500th s. So you gain nothing in trying to overpower or balance sunlight.
    It's called a spot-welder.
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2021

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