Lowlight nightclub and rave photography tips?

I shoot nightclub and rave photography - all of it is very low light...especially the

rave photography.

 

Anyone in this field have any suggestions or tips to help the quality of my

photos? I kind of already have an idea of what I need to do, but looking for that

extra something to really make my photos stand out from the rest...

 

Be it composition technique, lighting techniques, when to and when not to use

flash, camera settings, camera tricks, unique creative techniques....etc etc

 

This is the level of quality I want my photos to be like eventually:

http://portfolio.rukes.com/

 

Im shooting with a D300, SB800 w/ lightsphere, 16mm f/2.8 fisheye and a 17-

50mm f/2.8 (I have a few other telephoto lenses but try not to use them since they

are not f/2.8)

 

I think I have the right equipment to take rukes-quality photos....just need to

master the art. Any suggestions or tips that would help me out would be greatly

appreciated :-)

The pictures you are trying to emulate seem like snap shots taken at a club? Simply learning to drag your camera's shutter with flash should duplicate this technique. The best advice is to read your camera's (and flash's) manual, and practice. But as you practice & change settings, take careful notes. When you find the winning combination, you will be able to re-produce the effect desired.

 

You should be glad you are shooting digital, the instant feedback will make this process go quite rapidly. With film, you would have needed to match your notes with the results after processing times, etc.

I`m afraid I must learn from you... instead of giving you any advice. As Lex said in another post, I`m getting old I`m afraid.<p>

As looks you have a lot of "peculiar" people to shot, perhaps I would try to take them to my stable to have more elaborated portraits from them... they seems to very interesting. Check one of my favourites <a href="http://andrzejdragan.com">here.</a><p>

I would like to see a very detailed pano from that huge place full of people. Perhaps at the very center of it. The inners of that place could be also interesting, the people who are behind the scene, doormans, security staff, even the cleaning staff at work could be interesting to me too. Have you tried b&w?

Gabe, I find your own photos at least as good as those on the link you provided, and some are much more interesting. You have a knack for getting inside the crowd and getting photos of people. That's your strength, so go with it.

 

As a former photojournalist from the manual-everything days and now fully appreciative of new technology I'll offer this: as much as I enjoy what automation can do, there are some things it cannot do well.

 

My D2H can autofocus in ridiculously dim lighting. With the focus assist lamp on the SB-800 it can literally AF in the dark. But it cannot always do it on time. And in candid photography timing is everything. A split second off and the shot is missed.

 

Train yourself to use manual focus and zone focusing - prefocus on the zone where you expect the action to be. The more you practice with this technique using the lenses you will use on assignment, the better prepared you'll be for situations where automation fails.

 

Have you taken a look yet at the work of the other photographers I mentioned? Larry Fink and Bruce Gilden? If not, you should do so. And take a look at the video on YouTube of Gilden at work in the street, photographing strangers up close, using off-camera flash, camera in one hand, flash in the other connected via curly cord. While his specific technique is, frankly, not practical with a big, heavy camera like the D2H, D2X or D3, it might work with the D300. Give it a try. Getting the flash off-camera can give you a slight edge because your photos won't look like everyone else's (altho' I think you're doing pretty well right now).

I also think your photos are very good. I would, if possible, experiment with multiflash photography (CLS). I've managed some interesting results on the dance floor by using two flashes. Yes, it may be difficult to set up in the locations you're working in, but if you can do it (with the help of the technical people of the organizers) then you may be able to get unusual results.

 

I would also try Sigma's 30mm f/1.4 lens and see if you can use it to get some more available light in. Also you may be able to diffuse the background this way, should you want to (though a longer lens makes it easier).

I haven`t seen any rear sync flash shot. I know it`s so well-worn but I like it to have somekind of dynamism and clearer background on darker scenes. Perhaps you can play with it.

...you could 'rent' a Nikon D3 body for one night. Perhaps ISO 6400, a AF 85mm f1.4D Nikkor lens, and no SB-800 use will give you a different view of shooting in the dark?

You could try the 30/1.4, but the depth of field is probably going to kill you.

<br/><br/>

I was following your other thread about sb-800 illumination, and that is a bummer. I tried my brand new tokina 11-16 f/2.8 to shoot my cat in the dark (with sb-800 bounce flash), and I couldn't get it to illuminate. No wonder. Otherwise this might be a killer lens for you. I would recommend as wide as possible since you can get so up close, but fish is getting a little overused.

<br/><br/>

As somebody suggested on the other thread, does the af illuminator still work on d300 if you use a sb-800 off camera with the sc-29 cord? I will try that tonight. Off camera flash makes your hands more busy but has the benefit of better looking light.

<br/><br/>

I'm not sure if I have advice to offer on your photos. I think they are better than those you linked to. It looks like you have all of the mechanics down, e.g. rear-curtain sync, dragging and/or long shutter. One thing I might offer is in some images the flash looks a little hot. I would consider dialing that down a bit to balance in more ambient. Also, because of the unique lighting conditions, you might try just setting the camera to manual and trying various shutters. Lasers/lights are going to streak/blow various parts of the image, and your flash is going to freeze the subject (but perhaps with streaks or tracers). All of this is I think the look you are going for. You can even consider taking your flash out of TTL and dialing it manually. Manual camera and manual flash will at least keep all of your images consistent (with the dynamic being the crazy ambient).

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One more thought: Since you said you are only sizing to web, you can probably get away with higher and higher iso, which may give you freedom to stop down a little bit.

<br/><br/>

Finally, are you a strobist reader?<br/>

<a href="http://strobist.blogspot.com">http://strobist.blogspot.com</a>

<br/><br/>

If not, suck in all you can. Dave will make you completely re-think how you use flashes and light.

"I would like to see a very detailed pano from that huge place full of people. Perhaps at the very center of it."

<BR><BR>

Nice idea :-) How would I be able to do this without a tripod? Maybe just pivot the camera and use photoshot to line things up?<BR><BR>

 

"The inners of that place could be also interesting, the people who are behind the scene, doormans, security staff, even the cleaning staff at work could be interesting to me too. Have you tried b&w?"

<BR><BR>

 

Yup. Not too extensively though since at raves, one of the main characteristics of it are intesnse bright colors so going B&W kills it. However, I've found a few shots that going B&W work out. Here are the last b&w photos I did (this was 2 weekends ago). ONly took them of the DJ...but I think i'll give it a try more often. I think in sceneros where the light is so dark that my prime light source will be my flahs, I have nothing to lose by going b&w and think it could even give an otherwise dull photo some life :-) Good thinking...now im excited to try it!!

<BR><BR>

<img src="http://www.plurspace.com/gallery/5/54/542/5429/54294/54294615690998.jpg">

<BR><BR>

<img src="http://www.plurspace.com/gallery/5/54/542/5429/54294/54294615090998.jpg">

 

<BR><BR>

For those that followed my other thread about D300+sb800 and the AF illuminator problem, these two pics are from that event that I posted the picture of the huuuuuuuuuuge crowd (15,000 people). This is from the other end on stage behind the DJ :-P<BR><BR>

 

Just for fun (for those that remember the picture im talking aobut) is another one so you can see all the people:

<BR><BR>

 

<img src="http://www.plurspace.com/gallery/5/54/542/5429/54294/54294616690998.jpg">

<BR><BR>

That pic brings up another thought of mine...when I shoot with no flash on DJs, there is usually strong colored light on the them. This caused the photos to be oversaturated and kill some details. Is there a way I can improve my saturation problem?<BR><BR>

 

 

 

"Gabe, I find your own photos at least as good as those on the link you provided, and some are much more interesting. You have a knack for getting inside the crowd and getting photos of people. That's your strength, so go with it."

<BR><BR>

Thank you!! I really really appreciate that.<BR><BR>

 

 

"Have you taken a look yet at the work of the other photographers I mentioned? Larry Fink and Bruce Gilden? If not, you should do so. And take a look at the video on YouTube of Gilden at work in the street, photographing strangers up close, using off-camera flash, camera in one hand, flash in the other connected via curly cord. "<BR><BR>

 

Haha, I just watched that...that is awsome! I love the idea...I am going to try it. I can put my d300 on camander mode and set the flash to remote and do the same thing wirelessly :-) Im gonna try it. <BR><BR>

 

"Give it a try. Getting the flash off-camera can give you a slight edge because your photos won't look like everyone else's (altho' I think you're doing pretty well right now)."<BR><BR>

 

Thanks :-)!!! As for off-camera flash, I am completely lost here. Does anybody have any suggestions with this in terms of what is the best way to hold the flash? Up high, down low, to the side, in their face...etc etc. I have noooo idea what to do once I have the flash in my hand.<BR><BR>

 

 

"I also think your photos are very good. I would, if possible, experiment with multiflash photography (CLS). I've managed some interesting results on the dance floor by using two flashes"

<BR><BR>

Thank you :-) Thats funny you mention multiflash, I JUST realized I could do this!!! It came to mind when I was shooting the other day and someone else took a picture of the same person while my shutter was still open - so basically my camera saw two flashes...it was a crazy photo! everyone loved it! Im gonna give this a try too!<BR><BR>

 

 

"I would also try Sigma's 30mm f/1.4 lens and see if you can use it to get some more available light in."<BR><BR>

 

I was debating this. I didn't know if I should go with the sigma 30mm f/1.4, the nikon 50mm f/1.4, or the nikone 85mm f/1.4. Probably wont do the 85mm because the larger focal length will kill some of my much-needed light, plus its nearly $1k for a prime lens!! As for the 30mm or the 50mm, I've been thinking about which focal range would be more usefull to me. I want to have a strong DOF so when I take upclose shots of DJs with no flash, they will pop out nicely. The 50mm would work good for this...but then 50mm makes it more difficult to use in the tight crowds and I would want to be able to use it there too. Any suggestions on this respect?<BR><BR>

 

"I haven`t seen any rear sync flash shot. I know it`s so well-worn but I like it to have somekind of dynamism and clearer background on darker scenes. Perhaps you can play with it."<BR><BR>

 

All my photos are rear-sync flash. You dont really notice it though because the shutter speed is too fast for most of my shots (1/10-1/30th). <BR><BR>

 

"As somebody suggested on the other thread, does the af illuminator still work on d300 if you use a sb-800 off camera with the sc-29 cord? I will try that tonight. Off camera flash makes your hands more busy but has the benefit of better looking light. "

 

<BR><BR>

Yes, it does. Nikon suggested this. If I set the camera to commander and set the flash to remote, it will work. HOwever, I just bought a 17-50mm lens and the AF illuminator works perfect the whole range. Seems once it hits 16mm the AF doesn't want to work :-/ That lens you mention would be awsome...too bad. Because of this, i've decided to use my 17-50 for most shots and just pop on my 16mm for shots with enough light (crowd shots, DJ shots...etc)<BR><BR>

 

"One thing I might offer is in some images the flash looks a little hot. I would consider dialing that down a bit to balance in more ambient."<BR><BR>

 

Until I got my D300, I've been shooting with the SB800 in TTL and the camera in single-spot metering. The camera wouldn't adjust the flash this way (I think...right?). So I always manually adjusted the sb800. Once I got the D300 (last week) I decided to try iTTL and let the camera auto-adjust the flash. I just read about the FV lock so I am going to try to get used to using that.<BR><BR>

 

"One more thought: Since you said you are only sizing to web, you can probably get away with higher and higher iso, which may give you freedom to stop down a little bit. "

 

<BR><BR>

Im already shooting upwards of 3200 on a regular basis. Going to HI.3/.7/1 gives me a lot of noise. Well, honestly, I've only used HI1, not .3 or .7 much. But does anyone know a good way to remove the noise in photoshop? I have CS3. However, all photos need to be batched so the solution needs to be a simple one that I can apply to all photos.<BR><BR>

 

"Finally, are you a strobist reader? http://strobist.blogspot.com If not, suck in all you can. Dave will make you completely re-think how you use flashes and light."

<BR><BR>

 

Nope! Never heard of it. I'll check it out right now.<BR><BR>

 

 

 

Hi,

 

Have you ever checked this guy's website? http://www.digitalfrog.nl/photos/

 

He has some rather nice party pics.