loose lens mount on T90

Discussion in 'Canon FD' started by mark_houlder|2, Apr 14, 2005.

  1. the lens mount on my T90 has become slightly loose, so that lenses,
    when attached, can 'jiggle' slightly. it's really only a tiny amount
    of 'play' in the lense position - maybe 0.5mm - but as the direction
    of movement is directly away from the film plane (ie the back of the
    lens comes away from the camera ever so slightly) i'm not sure if it
    may affect sharpness. i realise that if i did a lot of macro work
    (which i don't) this could be a problem, but in normal use is it
    something to worry about? it's annoying, but i don't want to pay for a
    repair which isn't necessary. i usually use lenses between 28-200mm,
    often wide open.

    alternatively, if anyone knows how it could easily be tightened that
    would be a great help. i had a look round the mount but couldn't see
    any obvious tightening screws.
  2. It's a very easy thing to fix. You only have to remove the front cover, which is not hard.

    Unscrew the 4(?) screws on the front of the camera around the face. On the right side (if you're facing the front of the camera; or if you're facing the back it's the left side where the back door latches) unscrew ONLY two or three turns the two screws there. You only have to lift the side panel up enought to release where the front panel latches underneath. Be careful here. If you pull the side up too far the little spring/lever that locks the back door may pop out. Putting it back together if that happens is not terribly difficult, but the pieces are small and easy to lose. Anyway, you can now lift off the front panel. Tighten the four screws that are attached to the silver mount. You might want to add some lock-tight, but that's not necessary (in my experience).

    When putting it back together just make sure the stop down lever on the face plate is put back on the little lever/knotch whatever it is on the body.

  3. Now that I think about it, I think tehre may only be three screws on the front face plate--one above the mount, and two below. But you get the idea.
  4. A good local repair person may do this for very little money.
  5. Mark,

    As Aaron said, it's not hard. I've done it to my T90 and it took about 10 minutes. Sure made things more solid! Just be sure to do the latch end of the camera like Aaron explained - front face tabs have been broken by folks who don't know about this attachment point.
  6. Mark: If you do it yourself and you get it done correctly, please post it here so that I amy follow you ....
  7. If you do not put loctite on you will have to tighten them again in about 3 years. That is what I had to do and it really isn't a problem.
  8. awahlster

    awahlster Moderator

    Johns instructions are dead on and yes there are only three screws on the front cover and two on the latch panel. DO not use Locktite on the mount screws but insead after they are tight brush a tiny amount of nail polish on them trying to keep it from filling the slots. If you use loctite you may risk breaking the screws if the mount ever needs to come off for servicing. As this is a super easy repair doing it once every 3-4 years is no big deal. Make sure you have a proper #0 or #00 cross point of Phillips head screw driver.

    I just repaired the left sttrap lug on one of my T90's and had it all apart.

    There is a repair manaul at Christians FD site here:


    Be careful and slow work over a white terry towel (easy to see and catch any screws that get away. DO NOT WORK OVER CARPET.
  9. awahlster

    awahlster Moderator

    Sorry I might Aarons instructions were dead on.
  10. thanks for the info; i'm going to give it a go later today - i'll post back with how i got on
  11. Just finished, took me about 10 mins altogether; although I did have to go the local maplins to buy a new electrical scredriver set, as the #0 I had wasn't small enough - with a #00 it was much easier.

    just to clarify what i did exactly: firstly, i removed all 3 front screws. they are very small and very easily dropped, so it was a bit fiddly. then i loosened the two screws holding in the right back-door-release-button plate, a bit at a time, until the front plate 'clicked out'. it took about 3 turns each. i could then insert a small flathead screwdriver under the front plate on that side to gently lift it up.

    all 4 mount screws were loose so i tightened them, then put the front plate back on. it has to be slid slightly under the handgrip to the left of the mount; the stop-down switch seemed to align itself ok. re-tightening the right-plate screws was a bit fiddly, as the plate wouldn't refit flush first time, so i had to tighten/loosen each of the 2 screws a bit before it slotted back flush again. then i just refitted the 3 front screws (again, very fiddly), and voila - my mount is rock solid again.

    thanks for the help everyone!
  12. I may have to go that road myself ...
  13. raid - go for it, it's pretty easy. just get a #00 screwdriver, be careful with the screws, and you'll be done in 10 mins.
  14. Hi everyone,

    Thanks for the tip - I just tightened up my T90 mount and it too took me around 10 minutes.

    Many thanks

    Dave Thrower
  15. thanks!
    the fastest and best repair ever!!!
  16. you can also put a drop of lock tight on each of the mount screws to maybe prevent them from loosening again. worked on my two bodies.
  17. Greetings from the future!

    Some 15 years after the last post I'm pleased to say that T90s are now showing up cheaply on auctions sites "for parts or repair" with little more than loose lens mounts. Also, some otherwise fine examples are being sold "as-is" because they have had a PC socket fitted to the left side of the pentaprism; this was an after-sale Canon factory modification (other repairers did it as well I believe) which is uncommon enough to be a surprise to modern sellers.

    Lastly, the correct tools to use for Japanese cameras are JIS screw drivers. Philip head drivers fit but are by-design tapered so they cam out of the head under load. JIS drivers are straight/parallel and don't cam out of JIS screw heads. You'll find that Philip head drivers result in damage to the JIS head when pressure is applied.

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