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Lighting for a group of 15 people


zoe_mcenery

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<p>My parents 50th Wedding anniversary is this weekend, and because I have taken a few portrait shots for people my parents have decided that they want me to take a group photo of our entire family. There will be a total of 15 people (including myself), 9 adults, 5, teenagers, and one 3 year old. My main concern is how to light the photo, and my second concern is how to try and get people to look at the camera when I'm in the shot as well. I don't know where we will be taking the photos, and will only get to scout out locations a couple of days in advance as we will all be on vacation together. I will be using a Nikon D300, and either and SB-800 and SB900 with medium sized umbrellas, or possibly I can borrow lighting from a friend of mine.<br>

Thank you in advance to all comments<br>

Zoe</p>

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<p>First of all, you need to think about how to pose them. There are a number of excellent posing suggestions on the internet, but the ONE thing you should always remember is that no matter how you pose them, the way they overlap each other and how that will affect your lighting should be of paramount importance. Usually, groups of that size are posed in rows, with the taller people in the back, the older people in the front, framed by their immediate family, with the children in the final row, maybe even at the feet of the older people or possibly framing the older people. Also, try not to put dark-haired people at the edges are they usually tend to disappear, especially against darker backgrounds (and chances are your background will be dark as you don't seem to have enough lights to light it).</p>

<p>As for lighting, the two flashes at 45 degrees of the group and raised high above them pointing down, with the reflective umbrellas pointed their way, should suffice if your group them tightly enough. Of course, you should not raise the lights too high as it will create dark shadows in their eyes. THIS you can battle by placing a white cardboard/foamboard of sufficient size facing them relatively close up (and outside the camera frame) OR with an additional flash, maybe ever your on board flash (with some sort of softening modifier).</p>

<p>Interesting project and I wish you all the best...</p>

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<p>I'll assume that you have a tripod......but you might consider calling a pro studio and giving the family photo as your gift for your parents 50th anniversary. Just getting the 3 year old looking in the general direction of the camera while getting a flattering pose of the subjects will be quite the challenge. The cost of a quick location group portrait shouldn't be prohibitive if you value real, quality professional photography. Then let them worry about the lighting, posing, details........good luck.</p>
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<p>Without knowing more about the circumstances, it is difficult to help you, since every single possibility, solution or even things to watch for can't be put in a couple of paragraphs--even posing advice.Do you have any other info?</p>

<p>One thing I can suggest is that you leave room to PS yourself into the image and control the shot from camera position. Then photograph yourself (have someone else press the shutter button) to be inserted later. It would be next to impossible, I think, to get kids and babies even remotely facing the camera when you are in the group itself. You will have problems with others too--even adults. This is what I did at my family gathering.</p>

<p>While I won't discount umbrella use, my inclination would be to not use it. In these kinds of things, one normally won't have the luxury of space. If the event is in a home or restaurant, space is limited. If outdoors, umbrellas are questionable anyway, without an assistant to hold it down. Plus if you are all on vacation and going from place to place, you will not be wanting to carry that around. I would be looking for simple solutions with on camera flash if your final image does not have to end up as a 16x20 or larger print.</p>

<p>May I suggest you give us some likely scenarios--such as in a restaurant or outdoors.</p>

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Your camera should have a 10 second shutter delay. So when you get everyone posed have a spot where you can jump into the group, usually towards the sides.

 

As far as lightning simple use your SB800 or 900. With a group this size I'd keep it simple and use 1 flash. For smaller groups of 3 to 4 you could use a 2 light system, the main light about a 50 to 60 degree off to the side of you. The second light should be around 1 stop lower than your main flash. Set the second flash somewhere near the camera.

 

When using more than 1 flash for large group shots you risk casting shadows on the faces of people, so keep it simple and use one flash.

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<p>Bob, I actually have a wireless radio remote, so I don't even have to jump in.<br>

You say don't use 2 lights, but I don't see how the main light would be strong enough to illumiate 15 people. Why would 2 lights risk casting shadows more than one light?<br>

Nadine: I don't know the situation because I don't know the location, we are staying in a timeshare, and I don't know if there will be a conference room or somehting we could use, I don't expect the weather to co-operate as it will be October in Canmore, and likely cold.<br>

David, I do have a tripod, light stands, umbrellas, and 2xSB-800 a couple of relfectors and possibly can borrow a boom if needed. I actually really wanted to hire someone to do this shoot, but my parents *insist* that I do it. Its hard when your parents have so much faith in you<br>

Marios, thank you</p>

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Cool, having a wireless is surely a bonus. I really think you will be fine. If you decide to use 2 flash units at 45 degrees cover yourself by using one flash. If you are outside you should be OK, but if you are inside with walls, be very careful, because you may pick up hard shadows.
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<p>OK--the basics. Indoors, you want 3 rows of 5, closely packed, both body to body in a row and body to body between rows. People all turn slightly toward the middle, shoulder overlapping shoulder. Steps are great if you have them, taller people in back. If not, first row is chairs with women/elders in them. Husbands stand behind wives, kids in front, unless they are grown kids, then you have them behind or in front (kids and small ones in front) or next to. You could also go row of chairs, row of people standing, and then people standing on chairs. Or row of young men/kids sitting, row of chairs and row of people standing.</p>

<p>If you have a large couch, that might work, but you need space behind it and beware of deep couches. If you have those, a row of people sitting on the back might work, depending upon the couch.</p>

<p>If you have a staircase, that could be nice, but those usually mean you need a short stepladder.</p>

<p>As for lighting, I'd go with one umbrella--just like for wedding groups, about 15 degrees to right or left, watching where shadows fall so you don't have shadows on people's faces. The light is usually about 12-14 feet from the group. I use f5.6 at about 35-28mm focal length, focus 1/3 of the way into the group. Feather the light across the group--point it just past the middle of the group. Get it as high as you can. Drag the shutter.</p>

<p>I personally would still leave a space to insert myself later and (wo)man the camera. Then have someone photograph you. That 3 year old is going to be tough.</p>

<p>If you don't have space for the umbrella, use backward bounce and push the ISO.</p>

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<p>Wow thank you so much for the detailed advice!!! <br>

Nadine: one question, I'm confused by your advice to feather the light across the group. My understanding is that if I feathered the light it wouldn't actually directly hit any of the group, as I would just be using the very edge of the light for the whole group. But as I understand what you mean, is to set the umbrella 15 degrees right/left off camera, but still point the center of the umbrella to the middle of the group. Is this correct?<br>

I'm actually starting to have more confidence with the 3 year old, luckily he is mine, and we have been practicing "happy face" And he is getting good at looking at what ever I ask him to and showing that object "happy face" So I think I might be able to get him to do that for the photo shoot, especially if he thinks it's a game that the rest of his cousins are going to do. But we'll see. </p>

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<p>I have shot plenty of groups with the D300; one SB800 and an on cam SB900. That part is fine, but test your settings well to be sure you get it dialed in on the day.</p>

<p>I typically find these shots being done in the later day light. That means my settings are about 1/60th; F8; ISO400. Light on a stand about 15 - 20' from the group and to one side of the cam by around 4' or so. That light is normally set at 28mm and aimed toward the opposite side of the group. That is, you have to feather the light a bit, so to accomplish this aim it toward the farther side of the group rather than straight at the middle.</p>

<p>Here's how that looks when I do it that way:</p><div>00XXeE-293519684.jpg.8653c0f738a7b28325ce20cf191b668a.jpg</div>

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<p>Zoe, a few tips: Get high and shoot down on the group ... the higher the better. Focus 1/3 into the group and try to set f/5.6 or 8 so everything is sharp front to back (use your camera's enlarging function and scroll front-to-back to check it).</p>

<p>If you can't get back far enough, and have to use a wider angle lens, try to pose the thiner people at the far edges of the group.</p>

<p>Lighting: use the feathering technique Nadine mentioned ... so that people in the front get a bit less light than those in the back ... since light is distance sensitive, the exposure will then be more even front-to-back.</p>

<p>Here is an example of the above tips: This was a "surprise request" from the client at our last wedding ... 30+ people and no time to fetch the strobes from the truck, or set up anything ... so I shot it with on-camera flash and tried to feather the light off the front subjects as best as I could. I used a wide angle diffuser to cover side-to-side.</p>

<p>Remote: I'd get someone to help here ... perhaps a family friend ... the most important thing is to get everyone looking into the lens at the same time ... and a command shout from the camera will do that. Take multiple shots to insure this happens, or so you have material to swap heads in Photoshop.</p><div>00XZQD-295159584.thumb.jpg.ca83a2b3aac6ad64f4c76d6db113a764.jpg</div>

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