Lensboards for Busch Pressman

I've had the same problem, they're weird, where can I get them - and when you can find them, they seem to run between $25

and $50 depending on condition (and the bottom end really is the *bottom end*).

So I made my own. The first was painstakingly created from aluminum plate with stuff like a hacksaw, file, sandpaper, and a

compass with a blade stuck in it. Needless to say, this took a horribly long time. Later I started working with industrial

engraving machines, and I was able to make another while management was on vacation. The use of actual power tools greatly

sped the process.

That was years ago. Now, I have my own machine and am getting the photo hardware back out again, and was considering that

I should make a few more of them to a) Use on my Pressman, and b) Sell.

At this point the project is only in concept stage, but I've done this before so it shouldn't be difficult. The pirmary problem

will be lead time (and perhaps aluminum stock, I don't think I have the right thickness on hand, but I may have brass), as I

have lots of other projects in progress.

If you're interested, email me and I'll set your email aside for when I get that project going (and yes, I'm afraid I'll have to

charge for the things). Oh, and sorry for the wordy post...

<p>

-Gary

While we're talking Busch Pressman, the bellows lining on mine has

separated and hangs down into the viewing area. Anyone know if the

standard bellows repair places will work on a Pressman?

<p>

Gary--I'd be interested in one of your lensboards too.

Hi dave,

I had this same problem after purchasing my Pressman about 6-7 yrs ago. No one seemed to have these things, except for a guy who wanted $50 for his. No kidding there. Of course, the internet wasn't near the peer to peer marketing network that it is today...

But the answer to your question is that I made mine. Using 1/8th inch black ABS plastic, which I had cut to order at my local TAP Plastic store, ABS cement, and commonly available hand tools I fashioned a handful of lens boards, and even a lens extension tube to gain a few extra inches of bellows travel.

To make a new lens board, I made a measured drawing of the one that came with my camera, and using that, I purchased dimensioned parts from TAP Plastic. There were three basic parts to shape, assemble, glue, check lens mounting fit, check front standard mounting fit, paint, mount lens and use. It's really simple.

The three parts are: Front plate of lens board, 3" square ABS plastic, 1/8" thick, black; rear plate of lens board, two and 7/16" square ABS plastic, 1/8" thick, black; top mounted retaining tab, 5/16" x 12/16" ABS plastic, 1/8" thick.

I went to the store, picked out the plastic sheet I wanted, handed it to the clerk, along with the drawings I made, and about 15 minutes later he came back with a small stack of front and rear plates. The clerk also handed me a 5/16" x 12" strip of plastic, saying that they couldn't cut the tab down any further. I had to actually measure out the 3/4" part and cut it myself with a box cutter. (Oh, the indignity!).

From there, I radiused, (rounded), the corners so the plates would fit into the front standard and form an adequate light trap. I then glued the two plate together, making sure they were centered, and that there was an easily identifiable center mark on the rear plate. This center mark will aid in centering your drill/router or boring bit when you go to cut out the lens hole later. Use the ABS glue to bond the two plate together. Since this stuff works using capillary action, its applied to the parts after they are assembled. To apply the cement, dip a Qtip into the bottle to wet the ball thoroughly. The cement is like water, only a lot more volatile. Quickly run the Qtip around the crack where the two plates are joined together. Capillary action will draw in the cement. The bonding action takes place quickly, less than a minute, probably.

Cut a 3/4" long tab from the 5/16" x 12" long plastic strip. I used a box cutter. You can use whatever gets the job done. The mounting tab can now be cemented in place. The partially assembled lensboard should be placed in front of you with the front plate on bottom, rear plate on top. Select which side will be the top of the lensboard. You have four choices to choose from. The tab should be placed, 5/16" edge standing up, pressed against the shoulder formed by the union of the rear and front plates. Center this piece so that the tab, after glueing up, fits into the slot located in the top of the front bellows standard. Apply cement, wait a moment and test fit into the front standard.

I used the retaining screw pin in the front standard to mark the spot where to drill the retaining pin hole through the retaining tab. Then I drilled the hole.

Then I drilled the lens hole. Then spray painted the backside of the lensboard flat black. After drying, I mounted the lens and used it.

I think I spent maybe $12 total on half a dozen boards and a lens extension tube. that's plastic, cement, paint, and PVC pipe (for the extension tube).

It was really, really simple. In fact, it took me longer to write out this tortured story than to actually make the lensboard.

Good luck.