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Lens/tube/bellows/reversing choices for 1cm-sized objects?


jyoungman

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<p>Sorry if this is essentially an FAQ, I did search <a href="../">photo.net</a> and the web but didn't find an article with examples which would have helped me to visualise the effect of the various options.</p>

<p>I'm interested in doing a little macro photography of relatively small objects like rings and jewellery. I already read <a href="q-and-a-fetch-msg?topic_id=23&msg_id=000aUq">this thread</a> on the now apparently read-only <a href="q-and-a-one-category.tcl?topic_id=23&category=Macro">Macro forum</a>.</p>

<p>I have the Nikkor 28-105 zoom which has a kind of macro facility, and indeed I found that using it I could almost fill the frame with a reasonably large ring. However, the working distance was so small that the lens itself cast a shadow. Even with an off-camera flash off to the side, everything was still very awkward and difficult to light (at all, let alone well). Therefore I'd like to understand what my realistic options are to get a little more flexibility and, probably, working distance. I'd like for example to do a better job with lighting but the very small working distance makes this hard.</p>

<p>I realise what the available technology is: bellows, reversing-rings, extension tubes and (perhaps unlikely in my case) supplementary close-up lenses. However, the problem I have is that I'm not able to visualise the result I'd get from these pieces of equipment.</p>

<p>In addition to the 28-105 I also have a 50mm prime (the f/1.4 G) and the 70-300 VR. Well, also a 28-80, 14-24 and a Sigma 17-35, but I'd not expect to find those useful in this case. The 70-300 has a closest focus distance of about 1.5m, meaning that at 300mm I still don't get the magnification that the 28-105 does at 105 and its closest focusing distance.</p>

<p>So, what to do? Adding an extension tube to the 70-300 won't, I assume, much change its minimum focus distance (for reasonable sizes of extension tube). Using extension tubes on the 50mm prime sounds like a better idea (I'd expect the result to have better quality than the 70-300 at 300mm too) but I'm not sure what the actual effect would be and I'm also not sure if this is feasible with the G lens (it has no aperture ring).</p>

<p>I'm willing I suppose to buy a MF macro lens (most would be suitable, I'm using a D700). The 200mm f/4 Micro-Nikkor is $339 at KEH. If you have to have a 200mm macro lens, I'm sure that's a bargain, but at this stage I'm just experimenting a bit, so while I might eventually do that I'm pretty hesitant.</p>

<p>I'd be grateful if somebody could sketch out my options and their effects (esp. those other than buying the longer macro lens).</p>

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<p>Assuming you are using a DX body. You will need about 1.6:1 magnification to fill a 1cm object for the height of frame (16mm/10mm). Of the lens you have, your 50/1.4G is best at that (when reversed). I would do this,</p>

<p>25mm extension ring --> BR2A (reverse adapter) --> 52mm to 58mm step down ring --> 52/1.4G --> BR-6 Plus cable release (for adjusting aperture) </p>

<p>If you use a 50/1.8 or micro Nikkor 50mm where there is an aperture ring, the use of BR-6 is optional. The 52mm filter ring also remove the needs for the step down ring. </p>

 

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<p>It sounds like you need a real macro lens. If you can live with the short working distance, a 55mm f/3.5 can be had for $100 or so. It's super sharp and goes to 1:2 on its own or 1:1 with the companion M extension ring. Reversed on a bellows, it can fill a DX frame with a single peppercorn. (FX would require 1.5 peppercorns I suppose, but they're tough to saw in half.)</p>
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<p>I second Kent. 55mm Micro f3.5 is a good buy. Be careful, the older vesions do not mount on modern bodies unless modified, if I remember correctly. I use mind with the extension ring, it suits most purposes.</p>
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<p>Following Tommy's example, get a bellows (Nikon or Novoflex), a reversing ring (BR2A) and one of the 55 mm macros (any nikkor will do). Don't forget the cable release.<br>

Magnification beyond life size is probably easiest to achieve by stacking two lenses, but based on my current experience the setup above is the easiest way to get to high quality results with a lot of flexibility.</p>

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