Lens Spanners!

<p><img src="http://www.mypentax.com/Images/lens-spanner-01.jpg" alt="" /> i have a set of these things both with pointed tips and flat head screw driver type tips. the flat heads are good for removing the front and rear retaining rings on lenses. the pointed tips are what i need more, they unscrew advance lever screws like the one seen below: <img src="http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/images/Yashica/YashicaLynx14/YashicaLynx14-top.jpg" alt="" /> but this bugger does not work! the 'arms' are too long and twist under the pressure of my trying to loosen the screw. they also aren't very accurate and i'm sick of scratching the finish of my advance lever screw with these only to not get them off anyway! i've got two unhappy yashica rf's that would greatly appreciate any better alternatives to removing their advance lever screws!</p>

<p>I use circlip pliers for removing these kind of screws like the one on the advance lever. They can be found at your local hardware store for less than $10.</p>

<p>I've used this trick to take lenses apart. If you have a small vise, put two two small screwdrivers or two nails in the vise. Space them the same as what you're wanting to unscrew. Turn the camera over upside down (in your case) and gently lower it onto the two nails/screwdrivers and twist the whole camera. Cover the shiny areas w/ tape before you start to avoid scraping them.</p>

<p>I also have a pair of needle nose pliers that are much longer and thinner than the standard ones. These will get it off if it isn't too tight. Or take two nails and clamp them in a pair of vise grips and twist the attachment off. If it's stubborn try putting a couple of ice cubes in a plastic baggie and firmly hold it on the center area to contract it. Or put a tiny bit of penetrating oil on the edges and let it sit over night before trying to unscrew it.</p>

<p>As for the pin head screws (the ones holding the advance lever), I have normally been able to take a piece of large rubber grommet and just push down while turning. Usually the rubber will give you enough friction to grip the screw enough to loosen it. If they are too tight for that I use the snap ring pliers like Markus said. but the rubber is much safer, if you slip you wont scratch anything. I broke one while reinstalling it with the snap ring pliers once and had to replace the entire frame counter assy so now I always remember that snug is tight enough.</p><div></div>

<p>Beware of the deadly left hand thread on some of these !</p>

<p>Like screwdrivers and wenches, Lens Spanners come in different sizes. You can't say "If a plumber's monkey wench doesn't fit, you must acquit." :-) </p>

<p>This is about the size you need.</p><div></div>

<p>tom and markus's suggestions seem to be of the most use to me here but i appreciate everyone's input for sure!</p>

<p>i'm going to look into the rubber grommet thing because of course there are a number of cameras for which this is required since the advance screw has no machining on it at all. the pliers tom suggests sound like a cheap but professional solution. </p>

<p>tommy, that spanner looks like a totally different model than what i have so i think it's about more than just size! but to your point, my spanner set has been good for lenses which have a MUCH wider diameter. the set that i have just flex too much for anything smaller and more precise. </p>

<p>oh and thanks for the warnings of left hand threads--i think my yashicas have these!</p>

A wire paper clip, straightened and rebent so the two ends can be inserted into the holes and gripped with pliers usually works.

<p>Yes, the same could be done with a couple finish nails and vise grips or many other ways but, these are very small screws, usually made of brass (soft) sometimes chrome plated. I do not remember ever having one that the rubber would not remove unless it was recessed where you couldn't get at it. Much less chance of breaking it off or scratching the finish.<br>

Johhny, I don't know about other Yashicas but, all of the G series rangefinders that I have worked on had standard right hand thread. Same with Konica Auto S2 and all the Canonettes.</p>

<p>charles, i used to do stuff like that but always seemed to be scratching something. i don't think you can put as much downward pressure on the tool that way--maybe with locking pliers or vicegrips? i think purchasing the proper tool is probably a better solution though. afterall, my problem here is that i've got something that's torqued on very tightly and the tool i thought was made for this has turned out not to be adequate.</p>

<p>good point about the soft brass tom. i just have to find something suitible. in the past i've tried a rubber jar opener with no luck.</p>

<p>thanks for the tip about those rfs being right handed. for some reason i thought my lynx and m were left but i'm trying to get it to budge either way right now!</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>"Don't force it, get a bigger hammer"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>supposedly in Vulgar Latin in a blacksmith shop in Pompei</p>

<p>I haven't had any problem with mine which look to be from the same source as yours. You are aware that the prongs can be reversed by sliding them off the one end of the horizontal bars?</p><div></div>

<p>These work great. You can pick up a cheap pair at most any auto parts store (I had to grind the tips on these down a little with a dremel tool). I am not sure about the lynx, I have only been into the Electros G, GS, GSN...</p><div></div>

<p>jdm, yeah, looks like the exact same model--bought mine from micro tools. i reversed the points so both tips are bent inward. the horizontal bars between the arms are not strong enough/close enough to the tips to keep the arms from twisting under torque.</p>

<p>tom, thanks for the photo, i'm going to get a pair of these if the rubber grommet thing doesn't pan out!</p>

<p>The best tool for this job is a "case opener", available at any decent jeweller's supply.</p>

<p>Mine cost $16, has 4 sets of three different tips (yes, 3, but you only use 2 on most camera parts), the shafts are short, and the adjustment mechanism is geared and precise.</p>

<p>Second the vote for Ed Romney's widow.I talked to her on the phone and they will continue the business for now.</p>