Lens protection filters. Do you ever use them?

<p>I have never used them. Now I got myself a used Zeiss 80mm F2.8 with the Hasselblad and some Mamiya RB lenses whilst they can be bought inexpensive they are still a great pieces of glass. <br /> <br />Do you ever use protection filters at all? I found my used bought mint condition Nikon 70-200mm F4 now have a few blemish and my new bought 50mm F1.8D. Rather than waste time I have also used it outside overseas when you are out during the day when it is raining. Lens hood on lens points down as the neck strap is on your shoulder and you just walk in the drizzle. Then you soak it up with the lens cloth and give it a scrub. If it rains harder you pop a lens cap on.</p>

<p>Maybe in direct light but does a filter really affect the IQ in a practical way? Ie - uploaded to the website or an average size print made. </p>

<p>I use them only when there is a severe risk of damage to or dirt on the front lens element. While travelling abroad (sometimes). I have experienced serious reflections, even with good (B+W) filters so nowadays I hardly ever use them. </p>

<p>Most of my lenses have a 0A, or maybe a 1A on them.</p>

<p>I often enough use them in less than idea situations, where protection is needed.</p>

<p>Always use B+W UV filters on all my lenses unless there's a specific reason to remove them (usually to avoid stacking with a ND or Pol). Rather get crap on a filter than the front element, never had any problems with this. I believe some people disagree... :-) </p>

<p>Any lens purchase I make always includes a B+W UV filter. It gets put on immediately and doesn't come off unless I'm using other filters or I'm photographing something (like the full Moon) that can cause flares. I see such protection filters as an insurance policy for my lenses. In a way, they are more valuable than camera bodies. When I retire a body, the lenses migrate to the new camera. Just two days ago I was looking at used lenses at a local camera shop. I uncapped an 85mm (being sold without a protective filter) and immediately noticed a significant scratch on the front lens element. Not sure why the store accepted it for resale in that condition! But it reminded me once again of the value of protective filters.</p>

<p>A real can of worms...I only use them when the lens requires them for weatherproofing (some Canon L lenses), otherwise I don't bother.</p>

<p>Yes, they are on all my lenses (only removed in situations where they cause flare or reflections). A filter is much easier to clean than the lens front element (and more readily replaced if needed); especially after an outing near the ocean, there's more often than not a need for such a cleaning. Because they don't take filters (easily), I avoid lenses with a bulbous front element (like the Nikon 14-24, Tamron 15-30, or Sigma 12-24/4 or 20/1.4).</p>

<p>Not saying it was the intent, but this is a classic Trolling question on photo sites, like Canon vs. Nikon. Opinions are strong and generally fact based on both sides of the issue. A pointless conversation IMO.</p>

<p>I practice extreme care, always replace the lens cap, and have never regretted going without protection in 40 years of pro work.<br>

I LOVE buying used lenses with filters "on since new!" I get them home and put the filter in the 'UV/Skylight drawer.</p><div></div>

<p>I have them on all my work lenses. I have had them save a lens in a fall.</p>

<p>Only when I'm storing or transporting the lenses, never when I'm out shooting. I used to use a UV filter on my Leica lenses for protection from salt water when I was a naval officer, but not since then.</p>

SandyV took the thoughts right out of my brain!

 

But answering questions asked: yes I use them;

No, never any impact on IQ even with

enlargement. Caveat: always use a lens

hood/shade... ALWAYS.

<p>I use them all of the time, but take them off just before shooting. They are cheap protection. </p>

<p>"It depends"<br>

I rushed to buy one for my DR 'cron to not end scratching the soft coating off. I even have some on my 55 & 135mm TLR <em>viewing</em> lenses so I can use the double lens caps with filters on the taking lens. <br>

I couldn't be bothered to put any on my 50 & 100mm macro lenses to urge me to get external hoods too.<br>

I also didn't get any for cheapo kit zooms recently since I guess these will fall apart internally before the front elements get scratched. <br>

I'm ambivalent about the arguments. I guess the only conclusion to carry home from them would be: <em>"Mount a pretty big filter box to a tripod leg, so you can remove protection filters easily when you are shooting that insanely high resolution camera under ideal conditions."</em></p>

I used to use them all the time. Now I almost never use them. I do not believe they reduce the IQ, but they do not really help it any. A good hood is also something I take the time to use as it likely has more help for IQ than anything else. But it is one of those endless should I should I not he loves me he love me not questions that come up often. As often as those " How do I get this damn aluminum filter off my lens as it is frozen on" comes up. So if we take a poll, the filter manufacturers win. I do have some soft focus MF filters I used to use...now, shucks we can do so much in post processing or art filters. Do not go long on Tiffen or B and W folks, go long on micro chips more better :-) though, got to add I just bought a B and W circular polarizer as all my Bronica polarizers were the standard type...aloha nui loa and if I go to the beach more often, yeah they make sense. But then, a beer party might cause some trouble too...

<p>I don't shoot through them, but while composing and carrying cameras on location they provide good protection. All you have to do is look at the surface of the filter after a year or two to realize how many small dings would have been on the front element of the lens if they had not been there. </p>

<p>I have nothing against them per se. What I don't want to do is to have to take off a UV or whatever filter every time I want to use a grad or a polariser- which is a lot of the time - to reduce the chance of vignetting . What makes it worse is that I tend to operate outdoors with the rings for my grad system attached to my main lenses- which leaves me just with a filter holder to slide on. So no room in my usual work routines for protective filters. I do use lens caps when the gear is in transit.</p>

<p>The other time I might use one is when photographing in rain or blown spray. Clearly there are a variety of ways to keep stuff off the lens depending on conditions and the lens (sometimes with a longer lens a hood is enough, with a short lens it virtually never is. If its blowy I do sometimes use a UV filter to compose and meter through and then take it off for a moment to expose the shot. Or I might take a couple of shots with the filter on and then take it off when its collected rain/spray spots, leaving me with a pristine lens good for another quick shot or two before I need to clean the lens/filter. </p>

<p>Gerry S -- RE: Aluminum -- First off, buy only quality filters. Second is have a couple of (inexpensive) filter wrenches. A cheap sheet rubber jar opener will often work as well.</p>

<p>You don't shoot around stuff like this without a filter.</p>

<p><img src="http://spirer.com/images/bloody23.jpg" alt="" width="1000" height="667" /></p>

<p>Jeff, in your case I might suggest a Hasmat suit and an underwater housing.</p>

<p>I got sprayed with sweat, spit, and blood regularly when I was a sports shooter. Once my editor forced me to go see the ring doctor in the middle of shooting. </p>

<p>Here's another situation, this image is NSFW: http://spirer.com/images/spray2.jpg</p>

<p>There's a good series of UV filter tests here:<br>

http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test.html<br>

Their overall ranking also includes the UV absorption properties of the filters, which you probably don't care about, but the photos taken in different flare-prone conditions are informative. Multi-coating makes a very big difference! If you are going to use protective UV or clear filters routinely, I'd suggest something like B+W MRC, B+W MRC-Nano, Hoya HD or Hoya Fusion/EVO. All of these are multicoated and have an additional 'easy clean' coating that makes them easier to maintain. Avoid uncoated or single-coated protective filters (which I think B+W and Hoya still make). Under less challenging conditions where flare is not present, I'd be very suprised if you could see a difference between photos taken with or without a high quality multi-coated filter.</p>

<p>I always use a protective filters because I never use caps. When shooting in the field, I reach in my backpack and pull out one of four body/lens combos and start shooting. All of my bodies are preset to ISO 250, aperture priority, F8 so all I have to do is turn the body on and start shooting. (and I use a tripod) </p>

Ray, I use them all the time. They can always be taken off if I am concerned about vignetting or I want to use a polarizer or graduated

filter and filters are easy to clean. To me it makes sense to protect my lenses in the desert or locations where there are environmental

extremes. I like the Nikon multi coated clear filters and Marumi multi coated UV filters. Good hunting.

<p>Maybe using a UV or clear filter for protection makes as much sense as car seat covers, but I still like to use them to keep the front lens element looking new. I use either Hoya or B+W.</p>