Leicaflex SL - minor repair

Discussion in 'Leica and Rangefinders' started by charles_tuthill, Dec 21, 2005.

  1. I want to replace the strap lugs on a Leicaflex SL.

    Is this a simple repair that I can do at home or should I send it to a
    local camera repair person?

    If its simple to do, does anyone know where I can find directions?


  2. The first part of the repair is removing the top cover - and this implies re-installing the top cover once the strap lugs have been replaced. If you feel that this is beyond your skills then read no further.
    Each strap lug is anchored to the main casting by a pin which would have to be pressed out or (distant last option) drilled out. Once the pins are out the strap lugs come out easily. Press a new pin in to anchor the lug.
    I'd have a repair technician do the work.
  3. Thanks for the response.

    Should any technician be able to do this, or is it better to find a person that knows Leicas?
  4. Charles, I don't think this job requires any Leica-specific skills. One possible problem that is less likely with a Leica-specific technician is meter calibration. The official way to re-install the film speed dial cluster involves removing the cam underneath the assembly, then re-installing the cam once the film speed assembly is in place. Messing with this cam means messing with the meter's calibration. My guess is that the Leica specialist will have discoverd the trick to re-installing the film speed assembly w/o removing the cam.
  5. Leica specialist will also have the exact tools not to scratch and gouge parts or burr the screw heads, as well as the proper respect for the brand and pride in his craft to do a careful job.
  6. My suggestion is just sell the camera buy a better one. The repair bill may as high as the camera's value.
  7. For those who value viewfinder quality there is no better camera.
  8. "My suggestion is just sell the camera buy a better one. The repair bill may as high as the camera's value."

    This really makes very little sense. If the camera is repaired by a competent technician, then for the money you have a camera in proper operating (or cosmetic) condition with some form of warranty.

    If you go out and buy another camera of this vintage, you don't know what you're getting one could easily need repairs, or at least cleaning very soon. After all, the seller doesn't want it any longer.
  9. Replacing strap lugs really is a minor repair for a technician with the proper tools. This shouldn't be an expensive repair.
  10. Nobody's asked the question that the really curious want to know - what's wrong with the current strap lugs? Worn through from years of use? Banged up somehow? Want to install black anodized ones so your black SL isn't "panda-ized"? Curious minds...
  11. I have seen these cameras sell for $150-300 range. if repair bill up to $200, not worth it in my opinon. If you go to a local 'do not know how' guy they will mess up your camera you ended up more trouble. If you send to DAG et al, it will cost more.
  12. Charles, Why don't you just email Leica in your country? They will probably offer 2 options: 1. send you new lugs (inform you of the level of difficulty in self installation), 2. Give you a price for Leica installed lugs.

    Though I have experienced Leica Solms factory's lack of QC, I have nothing but positive comments for the patience and rapid response shown to me by Leica USA's service dep't.
  13. Another thought.

    If the lugs are badly worn (heavy use), then maybe the camera is due for a CLA anyway. So send it in!
  14. Dan Chang wrote: "I have seen these cameras sell for $150-300 range. if repair bill up to $200, not worth it in my opinon."
    Dan, that's a typical selling price for an SL that has never been serviced. The market value of an SL with a recent CLA reflects the cost of the service.
  15. I picked up the camera on ebay - it is in good working condition, but the strap lugs are almost worn through.

    A technician looked it over and advised waiting on a CLA - everyting checks out. This matches with my own results that I've got back from the slides I've shot.

    The battery has also been recalibrated to 1.5v.

    Seeing as it doesn't need an immediate CLA (which I had planned on doing) I'm just going to replace the strap lugs for now.

    Selling it doesn't really make sense - most any camera this old is going to need work of some kind. This one is clean and needs only a minor repair - I doubt it will cost $200 to change two strap lugs - I'd do it myself for that price.

    Thanks for your imput, I start looking into technicians.
  16. Correction - that should read that the meter has been recalibrated to take 1.5v batteries.
  17. If you feel the Leica functions properly, and you seem up to the task, this may help you.

    The trick to reinstalling the ASA dial assembly is the use of dental floss... What you do is thread the floss under the sliding meter linkage and push back this mechanism while holding it back with this floss long enough to gently slide the knob unit back in to position. The calibration isn't compromised if you use care.

    For disassembly, note that there is tamper proofing in the Leicaflex SL's. This is evident in the design of the base plate hub screw (for bottom removal) and the eyepiece securing screws (for top plate removal), be patient in figuring out the appropriate tools to advance past those. The SL's are bargain bodies that if you are game, you will learn some fun and useful skills for very little risk. Gus
  18. Yes there is a booby trap if removing base where you need squared drive to remove reverse screw in tripod but for the top it is pretty straight forward except for the meter cam as mentioned. I start at the rewind first there is a 1mm screw on the rewind knob that has to be loosened then you can un screw knob by holding spool shaft. I make sure shutter speed is on 1/2000 before removing cover. Then remove shutter speed dial with a two pointed drive ccw. (special tool) or you can make one from piece of wood with two finishing nails in spaced properly and filed to fit small slots on release collar. remove shutter dial 3 1 mm screws , Next remove retainer ring with spanner ,then remove another retainer ring with spanner . Now remove two shiny chrome screws on front by lens mount. Next step is to remove grub screw under meter plate, Now you can remove battery cover and then use some sort of ferrul spanner or home made wood one so as not to scratch metal of battery housing chamber. Next step is to carefully back off to grub screws in side top of film guide rail area there are two holes for this, carefully remove eye piece and light baffle this is plastic so be gentle. Here is where it gets interesting remove with spanner the ring that is around the rewind shaft. Now you can remove the top. carefully lift off top. All this just to replace strap lugs. Now if you have tools time and patience success and replace top in reverse order. Putting the shutter on 1/2000 puts thing in right location for the asa cam. While you have the top off you might clean the prism held by two screws and hold down spring. Good luck, Don
  19. Having just done this, you can use a 3.5mm square drive decking screw bit, although you might have to buy some appropriate decking screws to get the bit (often free in a larger box) as they are difficult to find in isolation. Fits like a glove.

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