Leica/Leitz Focomat enlargers and their Focotars

I am restoring a Focomat 1c (complete with Ilford Multigrade HLZ system) and all seems fine except it is missing one small but important part. I attach a photo of the part on another 1c as well as the bare spindle/screw on mine.

I don’t know what it is called but I’m guessing it is a roller bearing and is roughly 10mm in diameter. It supports the curved autofocus cam and without it I need to manually focus all the time.

Now I am aware that Leica stopped support for enlargers some time ago but I wonder if anyone could help: is this a standard component I could source from a roller bearing supplier or would I need to have it fabricated?

 

Second query is does anyone know of a good lens repair place that could clean the haze from a couple of Focotars I have. Leica no longer provide this service. I'm in the UK.

 

Thanks

 

Adrian

This part is a cam-follower. This part can be replicated at most any machine shop and likely not this will not cost an arm or a leg. You problem will be the diameter of the follower roller. The cam is that curved piece of metal that guides the cam-follower. The curve of the cam and the diameter of cam roller dictate how accurate the focus as you move the enlarger up and down. The idea was never to make this focus precise. The idea was to maintain a reasonable lens to negative distance as you move the enlarger head up and down to compose. Assuming the cam mechanism is reasonably accurate, focus at any given height will be about right. Next you touch up focus and then print. Likely you will need to experiment to find the correct diameter. You can move the head up and down and experiment with wood spacers to figure out what diameter you need. Likely the biggest expense will be the set-up at the machine shop. You can have several cam-followers made, each with a different diameter. Best of luck!

Thanks Alan that’s very helpful. So is this part meant to rotate? I’d assumed it would do as to minimise wear over time but if it’s just a simple disc with a hole in the middle I guess it’s time to find a machinist. Don’t think I’ve ever come across such a service hereabouts but I’m sure there must be a few left in deindustrialised Britain!

Thanks Alan that’s very helpful. So is this part meant to rotate? I’d assumed it would do as to minimise wear over time but if it’s just a simple disc with a hole in the middle I guess it’s time to find a machinist. Don’t think I’ve ever come across such a service hereabouts but I’m sure there must be a few left in deindustrialised Britain!

Most auto parts stores have a machine shop, they resurface brake drums and rotors etc. They also sell bearings, one of which might do this task with some modification. Likely you can find bearings with a central shaft that you can modify and make it fit. Keep in mind, the diameter of the follower is key to this deal.

The question is what they did about wear/friction. It does appear to be a plain bearing (no balls), but maybe with a pressed in plastic sleeve, or I could be seeing a washer- no idea. If it were mine I'd probably have a simple disk made out of black Delrin with a close-fitting hole. Does the spindle you show by any chance rotate? If it does, maybe it's the remaining press-in part. Does it come off if you take the screw out? I would be really nice if you could find somebody (here?) that has the same model and could measure it.

Alan, Conrad, thanks for your tips. I think I have found a solution which was to ask an eBay seller if he would part with the part from some incomplete Focomat assemblies he was selling. It's been quite educational in that Leica was not even willing to let me know the specs of the part nor any 3rd party help they might know of whilst the online community has been great. I had hoped the part was something generic that could be picked up simply but previous exposure to things Leica and Leitz should have indicated that if they could find a way to engineer something unique and hard to substitute that's what they would opt for! My search for enlarger bulbs for the v35 and the Multigrade unit (30v 80w ELB halogens anyone??) has been educational though to be fair it's Ilford's fault they chose a bulb that only some obscure Omega enlarger head used.

 

Perhaps I should have started a new thread but where does one turn to get enlarging lenses cleaned up (internal haze)??

The haze is likely a discoloration of the glue used to cement together some of the lens elements. This cement must be water clear and have a density that works optically. For years the sap of the Canadian balsa was used. Now mostly replaced by manmade cement. Lens elements cemented using Canadian balsa is difficult separate and then re-glue. Generally cost is too high so likely better if you replace with a new enlarger lens.

That's a pity as the Focotar 2 is a very sharp lens. Just with the haze it's losing contrast...

 

I'll ask at about machining when lockdown is over. Refitting the darkroom is keeping me happily busy in the meantime!

I don't know much about the Leitz enlargers, but it looks like it ought to be easy enough to find the diameter of the missing (?) roller by trial and error.

 

If you set up the enlarger with a negative you can try inserting some arbitrary thickness of material between the roller and the cam, then check the focus. A convenient and precise method would be to use a set of "feeler gauges" from your local hardware store. These are typically little strips of steel, marked with individual thickness, that swing out from a holder. Make sure you get enough thickness for your gap. Just keep stacking blades up in various combinations until you get one that works ok. Then add up the individual numbers for the total thickness. Or if you have measuring tools it's easier to just measure.

 

You'd still need to know the diameter of the shaft, so need a way to measure. The outer diameter of the needed roller would be: shaft_diameter + (2 x feeler_gauge_stack).

 

Once you have these dimensions you could look in a bearing catalog to see if there is an off-the-shelf solution. This is most likely the cheapest way to go.

 

... l guess it’s time to find a machinist. Don’t think I’ve ever come across such a service hereabouts but I’m sure there must be a few left in deindustrialised Britain!

 

Twenty or thirty years ago my dad used to get several British magazines specialized in machine work for making models, in particular steam engines. Look for something like "Home Shop Machinist" or "Live Steam," or something of the sort. If you can find one of the hobbyists many of them could make something to fit. You might even be able to trade your photographic services in lieu of cash.

 

One of the model machinist's would know what material to use. Typically some sort of brass works well on a steel shaft with a drop of oil (I presume your shaft is steel - check with a magnet). Best of luck.

Thanks Bill,

 

that is an ingenious way to solve the issue. Over the next few days I’ll be trying a couple of roller bearings I found from a remote control aircraft parts place and a salvaged cam follower from a Focomat of unknown age. Hopefully the latter will work but I’ve got a few good leads.

 

My late father had some wonderful miniature steam locomotives but too late now...

 

I don't know much about the Leitz enlargers, but it looks like it ought to be easy enough to find the diameter of the missing (?) roller by trial and error.

 

If you set up the enlarger with a negative you can try inserting some arbitrary thickness of material between the roller and the cam, then check the focus. A convenient and precise method would be to use a set of "feeler gauges" from your local hardware store. These are typically little strips of steel, marked with individual thickness, that swing out from a holder. Make sure you get enough thickness for your gap. Just keep stacking blades up in various combinations until you get one that works ok. Then add up the individual numbers for the total thickness. Or if you have measuring tools it's easier to just measure.

 

You'd still need to know the diameter of the shaft, so need a way to measure. The outer diameter of the needed roller would be: shaft_diameter + (2 x feeler_gauge_stack).

 

Once you have these dimensions you could look in a bearing catalog to see if there is an off-the-shelf solution. This is most likely the cheapest way to go.

 

 

 

Twenty or thirty years ago my dad used to get several British magazines specialized in machine work for making models, in particular steam engines. Look for something like "Home Shop Machinist" or "Live Steam," or something of the sort. If you can find one of the hobbyists many of them could make something to fit. You might even be able to trade your photographic services in lieu of cash.

 

One of the model machinist's would know what material to use. Typically some sort of brass works well on a steel shaft with a drop of oil (I presume your shaft is steel - check with a magnet). Best of luck.

I seem to remember that either the cam or cam-follower had to be adjusted to each Focotar lens individually. Lens focal lengths are never exact, and vary from batch-to-batch and from lens-to-lens within batches.

 

Even when running perfectly, you'll not get grain-sharp focus automatically every time. Stick to manual focus through a grain magnifier. It's what the owners of every other make and model of enlarger do!

 

BTW, it looks like that wheel could simply be replaced with a stack of steel washers of a suitable size.

Perhaps I should have started a new thread but where does one turn to get enlarging lenses cleaned up (internal haze)??

Most people do it themselves.

Is this a 50mm f/4.5 Focotar by any chance?

If so, it's only an average performing lens of Tessar design. I have one, and its contrast is easily improved on by a Componon-S or Rodagon, not to mention the much brighter baseboard image you'll get from an f/2.8 lens. So it's probably not worth throwing a lot of money at for a professional internal clean.

 

There's also no guarantee that the haze can be totally removed. Fixer fumes can permanently etch lens glass.

Edited April 29, 2020 by rodeo_joe|1

I like the steel washers idea which I may well try if my other plans do work out!

 

The enlarger lens in question is a Focotar 2 which is a top rated lens (and cost twice as much as an APO Rodagon when still offered new) and very sharp just losing contrast due to dust and haze. Not sure I would dare open it up myself: I have heard they are tricky to reassemble correctly. The first Focotar 4.5 is indeed in a different league but dates back to the 1940s or 50s.

The enlarger lens in question is a Focotar 2 which is a top rated lens (and cost twice as much as an APO Rodagon when still offered new)

You can't really go by cost when the Leitz/Leica name is attached. The performance also seems to get filtered through rose-tinted or pixie-dust frosted spectacles.

 

The design of the Focotar II dates back to the early 1970s and production stopped in 1979. That would be before modern multi-coatings, which can have a big influence on contrast. And it still has a slow f/4.5 aperture.

 

Most top quality 6 element enlarging lenses will render the grain sharp from corner to corner in a 10x enlargement, and film flatness (and camera lens) will have more effect. What more could you need or expect from an enlarging lens?

You may well be right but even if I decide to sell it it’d be best to have it cleaned up. I have an S-Orthoplanar 60mm, 2 x 40mm S-Biogons (long story) and a 40mm Apo Componon HM too so I know how good enlarging lenses can be. Still, none of these works properly on a 1c so I’m hoping to see what the Focotar is really capable of before reverting to a more sensible modern lens!

A little update.

I managed to get the part salvaged from an incomplete 1c on sale on the auction site by making the seller an offer he kindly did not refuse. It is tiny but quite intricate with a built in washer on the inner end (i.e touching the enlarger arm side) and a revolving polished steel circle cam follower around a small screw presumably with some sort of bearing or nylon innards to ensure smooth rotation without play. It screwed in and I was able to set up the autofocus with perfect consistency over the 2-10x range. Wide open the Focotar is sharp edge to edge though as it has internal haze not as contrasty as I'd like. With 2.8 lenses the autofocus seems just as good - after calibration - though they are not sharp at the edges of the frame until stopped down a bit.

As the Multigrade HLZ head is a bit dim even with the correct pair of 80w bulbs I may eventually use a 2.8 lens anyway.

The roller bearings I ordered (from remote control plane/drone parts place) have not arrived but when they do I will see if they work okay too though for the moment problem is solved.

Tks for all the tips!

I seem to remember that either the cam or cam-follower had to be adjusted to each Focotar lens individually. Lens focal lengths are never exact, and vary from batch-to-batch and from lens-to-lens within batches.

 

Even when running perfectly, you'll not get grain-sharp focus automatically every time. Stick to manual focus through a grain magnifier. It's what the owners of every other make and model of enlarger do!

 

BTW, it looks like that wheel could simply be replaced with a stack of steel washers of a suitable size.

 

I've never used the early 1c or similar series, but do have a V35, which I consider the finest 35mm enlarger ever made.

 

I've never had the 40mm Focotar, and they bring a strong price even though they're supposed to be exceptional. Instead, I use an El-Nikkor 50mm f/2.8. Apparently these seem to be somewhat more repeatable than earlier Focotars as I've never seen anything about adjusting cams when swapping.

 

To me, the principle advantage of the AF feature is that it more or less is "what you see is what you get" as far as final image size as the head is raised and lowered. In other words, even with a lens that's the wrong focal length for the cam, I can mostly avoid the size/crop-focus-size and crop again-focus again and so on dance that come with conventional bellows focusing enlargers. I get it set up more or less where I want, then use a grain focuser and the fine focus to get it into perfect focus.

As I recall -- Each focal length lens had a unique cam and the cam follower was not changed. Anyway, the objective was never to deliver precise focus, only approximate as you altered the height of the head. After composing the image, you then fine-focused, stopped down, and then fine-focused again. Enlarger lenses likely change focal length (slightly) when stopped down due to zonal aberrations.

The V35 and the IIc have as I understand it cams matched to the lenses fitted at the factory. The Ic OTOH was designed to be adjustable for different 50mm lenses by the user and was provided with instructions on how to do this in the manual. That matches my experience (with three Ics of various vintages and 8+ 50mm lenses).

I also have a V35 which I bought without the 40mm Focotar it would have been issued with. I am lucky to have got a 40mm Apo Componon HM that very closely matches the autofocus cam. I do however check the focus with a good magnifier whenever changing print size with that one!

I've never used the early 1c or similar series, but do have a V35, which I consider the finest 35mm enlarger ever made.

 

I've never had the 40mm Focotar, and they bring a strong price even though they're supposed to be exceptional. Instead, I use an El-Nikkor 50mm f/2.8. Apparently these seem to be somewhat more repeatable than earlier Focotars as I've never seen anything about adjusting cams when swapping.

 

To me, the principle advantage of the AF feature is that it more or less is "what you see is what you get" as far as final image size as the head is raised and lowered. In other words, even with a lens that's the wrong focal length for the cam, I can mostly avoid the size/crop-focus-size and crop again-focus again and so on dance that come with conventional bellows focusing enlargers. I get it set up more or less where I want, then use a grain focuser and the fine focus to get it into perfect focus.

 

Ben, if your 50mm El Nikkor is anything close to holding focus on a V35 you must have one of the very rare ones fitted with a 50mm cam. Does it have the 50mm magnification scale fitted on the adjustment arm? I’ve never actually seen one though I did hear a few people had early V35s converted by Leica to use the 50mm Focotar II as they found it superior to the 40mm Focotar. Of course your maximum magnification would be limited with the longer focal length.

Hi, Adrian. I'm not sure where in the UK you could get your Focotars cleaned and restored--you might try this company in Germany, however, as it appears they perform similar services: Lens Restoration | P+S Technik. Best of luck!

Ben, if your 50mm El Nikkor is anything close to holding focus on a V35 you must have one of the very rare ones fitted with a 50mm cam. Does it have the 50mm magnification scale fitted on the adjustment arm? I’ve never actually seen one though I did hear a few people had early V35s converted by Leica to use the 50mm Focotar II as they found it superior to the 40mm Focotar. Of course your maximum magnification would be limited with the longer focal length.

 

I'd have to look at it, but will check in the next day or two.

 

To be honest, I primarily print/printed 8x10s on it and it was a while ago that I sat it up. It may just be that I have the column height set correctly for the relatively narrow range of cropping that I do on 8x10s so I don't notice it so much.

 

I certainly want to check, though, as I may have a line on a 40mm Focotar. If I do have a 50mm cam, it sounds like I'd be in worse shape with the 40mm(although I'd still like to play with the Focotar for macro use).

Thanks Bernard, I will check them out.

Thanks Bernard. I tried them. They say that they don’t do enlarger lenses. Waiting to hear back from the fellow in Milton Keynes.

Hi Adrian, I just had my early Focomat IIC lenses cla'd by a Leica technician in Melbourne. Good work and a decent price. If you want the details let me know and I'll send you the details. He was booked out for 4-6 weeks so I had to wait before I sent the lenses in.

 

Secondly, your cam follower. I have 2 IICs (1 active and a second as a spare chassis without lenses or the bowen cable) and both have the followers, so I can measure and compare them and give you the dimensions. I have accurate tools as I build engines and stuff, another hobby.

 

More than 20 years ago I had 3 V35 enlargers (long story, but I still have one) in my garage and one of them had lost the cam follower, like yours. I measured one and took it to a Model Engineers (trains, clocks etc) fabricator. He said he's always making bronze bushes all the time so no problems, and the pictures in your thread looks like a sintered bronze follower. He explained, they have to be machined oversize and then reduce them via (acid, I think?) etching to the smaller finished size - as the machining firstly smears the bronze and prevent them sucking the oil into the bush, which wears out very quickly.

 

It was a love job, really, as you couldn't pay the commercial rate as it needed care and time, so I waited. Find the right person where you are who would be interested and would do a good job. I was lucky and grateful. I still know some of these retired guys, like me.

 

Pardon the long story.

Hello Gary, thank you for your thoughtful and detailed message. I have already found a solution which fortuitously presented itself on eBay: a fellow in UK was selling a broken down Focomat Ic and I asked to buy the cam follower from him. He agreed and all is sweet now. I had also contacted Kienzle in Germany who most likely could have helped out at some considerable expense as they fabricate most parts for Leitz enlargers and a bunch of others. They were very slow to reply and hard to get solid information from. Before I managed to get the right part by chance I had explored roller bearings made for drones and a number of other solutions. Leica UK proved useless just telling me I was on my own to find a 3rd party solution which was not very constructive. I can't help thinking that Leica could still be making some money selling negative carriers and lenses for their various enlargers and earned something from it. Moreover they should have continued to do so even if it were just rebranding some other manufacturer's products that maintain the functionality of all those Ic, IIc and V35 users out there stuck with machines lacking industry standard solutions. That's my 2 cents. I have a IIc which I managed to 'upgrade' with Schneider Componon 100 and 60mm lenses but it was quite a kerfuffle. I also managed to get a Schneider 40mm APO HM to focus correctly on my V35 (which I acquired lensless) but I just seem to have been very lucky there.riers and lenses for their various enlargers and earned something from it. Moreover they should have continued to do so even if it were just rebranding some other manufacturer's products that maintain the functionality of all those Ic, IIc and V35 users out there stuck with machines lacking industry standard solutions. That's my 2 cents. I have a IIc which I managed to 'upgrade' with Schneider Componon 100 and 60mm lenses but it was quite a kerfuffle. I also managed to get a Schneider 40mm APO HM to focus correctly on my V35 (which I acquired lensless) but I just seem to have been very lucky there. Edited August 7, 2020 by adrian_bradshaw