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Leica as "Street Camera."


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This forum seems to be dominated by "M" series cameras...no offense intended; hope none taken! I had an M3 and an M6 and both seemed uncomfortable to me...to ME...for whatever reason. I use SLR systems for formal photography as well as medium format. These are big and very "visible."

 

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I recently (very recently...like a week ago!) acquired a nearly mint IIIF and a Imarec VIOOH viewer. I soon discovered that all I need is a high speed film (400-3200), zone focus from infinity to 8' at f/16 (more with a 35 lens), totally enclose the entire camera with my hands, leaving only the tip of the lens and viewer exposed, and I can move wherever and whenever without bothering anyone. New adventures!

 

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Has anyone else discovered this particular attribute of the early Leica cameras? There are very few III series Leica forums for "show and tell!"

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Todd,

 

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I also recently got a Leica IIIf (BD) with a 3.5cm 3.5 Summaron. I

was just looking for something to use with my 15 Heliar, and

also for a smaller, less conspicuous and less expensive camera for the

type of photography you've described.

 

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Both camera and lens were in perfect working order. The precision,

fit and feel of these early Leicas are impossible to describe, unless

you've actually handled one. All the little knurled knobs, levers and

dials, the uncluttered viewfinder; it's a very satisfying camera to

hold and manipulate.

 

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The thing is in nearly perfect shape; it's scary to think it's older

than I am. I hope I'm still looking this good when I'm nearly fifty.

The shutter curtains must have been replaced not too long ago because

they look fresh and new. Shutter speeds are amazingly accurate. The

glass on the lens is completely clean and fog free. The viewfinder,

though quite small, is crystal clear. And I love the little

rangefinder's high magnification and instantly adjustable diopter, it

makes accurate focussing in low light much easier than with the M

cameras.

 

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Loading it is a real chore, though. I hate having to trim the

leaders. But, Gandy's suggestion that one should remove the lens and

trip the shutter on "t" setting, so you can help guide the film into

place with your finger through the lens mount really seems to ease the

chance of misloads. And if you wear glasses....well, you can always

get the Voightlander accessory viewfinders. And that little

retro-looking, chrome Voightlander meter is starting to look better

and better.

 

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It's so small and quiet that nobody even notices when I've taken it

out of my pocket inside stores, restaurants and other crowded places.

One guy thought it was a cell phone. I'm now looking for a good

collapsible 5cm 3.5 Elmar to make it even smaller inside my pocket.

When you think about it, it's really absurd how large modern 35mm

cameras have become.

 

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And the most surprising thing was/is the quality of the 35mm Summaron.

Wide open it's not bad at all. At 5.6 to 8 or 11 it's just

wonderful, comparing very favorably with my Summicron. The out of

focus areas are beautiful, creating almost perfectly round areas; it

must be the ten tiny aperture blades.

 

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For someone looking to get into the Leica thing for substantially less

cost than the Ms, I'd highly recommend looking into the older SMs.

 

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Sergio.

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Yes, ninety percent of my Street Photography is done with Leica M2/M3's

and 35 and 50mm lenses. They just seem to be perfect for that kind of

photography. But once in awhile I go out on the street with my 111G and

50mm Summitar and it is a unique expercience, so small and compact,

built rock solid, a real jewel. I have never zone focused in my street

photography and I have no problem with the twin eye pieces, see

picture, quick focus and click. Using the 111G is a real pleasure to

use for street photography. Please take a look at some of my Street

Photos at http://www.streetphoto.net

Steve

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Todd,

 

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Also, another great lens for a Leica LTM or M is the Kobaluk 28/3.5.

$399 at Adorama, comes in screw mount with M adaptor and viewfinder.

Only about 1 inch with lens hood on. Sharp as a razor blade and multi

coated. On my web site, www.streetphoto.net look at the picture toward

the back of the gallery where the people are at the french fry stand. I

use this lens alot, mostly on a M2.

Steve

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I'll second the recommendation for the Sumarron, the Kobalux 28mm and

the Summitar (my favorite). But the lens I use most often is the 50mm

f3.5 Elmar, the camera and lens easily fits in a pocket.

 

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I agree that focusing is quick and easy with the magnified rangefinder

window. I hardly ever zone focus.

 

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Sergio, I've never trimmed the film leaders. I just wrap around the

takeup spool, pop it in, and guide it into place through the lens

hole. Never had a problem.

 

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You're right, using one of these makes you wonder why current 35mm

cameras have gotten so far away from the concept of "miniature

format".

 

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I've been meaning to start a "Screw Mount Gallery" thread for sharing

photos made with these great machines. Want to join in?

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I've been cutting the leader, but one roll didn't thread properly and

didn't go through. I need to watch the sprokets when loading and the

rewind knob. I'm concerned about damaging the shutter curtain if I

use my finger.

 

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The "Screw Mount Gallery" sounds great...please start it.

 

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I find rangefinder focusing hard on any brand so I try to zone

focus...I need to practice.

 

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My Canon A2E with vertical grip is actually bigger than my medium

format!

 

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I can totally hide the IIIF in my hands! :>)

 

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Todd

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<i> Yes, ninety percent of my Street Photography is done with Leica M2/

M3's and 35 and 50mm lenses. They just seem to be perfect for

that kind of photography. But once in awhile I go out on the

street with my 111G and 50mm Summitar and it is a unique</i>

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Really nice photos, and nice site too. <p>

Question: do you take the camera to your face, or are you shooting from

the hip, chest...? In other words, while many of the shots look as

tho' your subjects didn't know you were taking their photos, others

seemed to be sufficiently intimate that they must've known (esp. one

that looks as if you usd flash- the woman getting a light from the

man...)...?

<p>

Tse-Sung

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All those pictures were focused and framed by eye. I cannot explain how

but I am able to focus and frame very quick. The picture of the girl

getting a light is of a prostitute picking up a john, the street was

crowded and as I walked toward them I just lifted the camera (Nikon F/w

Vivatar) focused and shot, then kept walking and I dont think they even

noticed that I had taken their picture even with the flash. Anyway, hip

shooting is a technique I have never used. I have practised dry

shooting (no film in camera) for many, many hours and like anything

practice makes perfect.

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Love to steal photos BUT disregard advice of flash.You can get into real problems.Guess you have to do that sort of thing if you use a Nikon F.Have done sneaks with it also.Removed Prism and shot using open finder.Makes the camera smaller.Tried old Leicas with screw thread.Too hard to reload.Use part of a shortened knitting needle to press film to sprockets.Use my M3 which is big compared.Thought of changing my Pentax 67 for EOS-3.Its almost same size....

I dont use Pentax for street photos unless I ask 1st.The noise like Hassies is deafening.

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Beautiful pictures, Steve, thanks. My two cents, gentlemen.

For street photography I use 0.72M-4P with 35mm f2.0 Summicron,

28mm/5.6 Summaron, 21mm/3.4 S.Angulon , 20mm/5.6 Russar ; M3 & 50/1.4

Summilux (in darkness only), and IIIf RD, my favorite for twenty

years, with the above named lens, all of them are screw mount &

Leitz M-mount adapters. No flash. Film 400-3200. I almost do not use

any viewer and rangefinder when shooting with IIIf and short-focus

lenses. In a few years of practice I can feel the frames of 21mm and

28mm. The human eye focus is about 18-21mm. My rule is �don�t afraid

to waste a frame�. My favorite techniques with IIIf is not to look

through RF/VF when shooting specially a tiny dog�s, cat�s portraits

on exhibitions, for example, or macro. I just set the f-stop for

required DOF (from 4�� or less) on the Russar and direct the IIIf to

the subject as near as possible. Sometimes I get cartoons because of

distortion, and it�s fanny. The IIIf�s film advance is very smooth, I

make it very fast and easy, just roll a wind knob with my thumb. NO

one of M�s has double exposure feature, IIIf does. Seems, loading is

so easy as M's.

Best pictures.

 

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--Victor.

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