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Lee Hoods which one to suit 35-70mm on FX


Matthew Brennan

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<p>My Nikkor 35-70mm f/2.8 flares far too easily. I don't want to upgrade it yet. </p>

<p>I already use Lee filters so I want to try a Lee hood on my 35-70mm.</p>

<p>I'm wanting to know if a Lee 'standard' filter will allow me to shoot at 35mm without vignetting or do I require the 'wide angle' hood?</p>

<p>Any Lee hood users out there?</p>

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<p>I use a self-supporting bellows hood from SRB-Griturn that looks like a close copy of the Lee standard hood - see picture below. I'd say that the standard hood will be too deep, even when fully compressed, to be useable on anything other than standard to tele lenses. The wideangle version would be much more versatile and a better bet IMHO, since it can always be masked down to suit longer lenses. A mask should be used on square hoods anyway to make them effective with rectangular formats.</p>

<p>Unfortunately you can't easily work out from a hood's dimensions exactly what focal length lens it'll be usable with, since it depends on the position of the forward node of the lens, depth of filter rim on the lens, etc.</p><div>00a3uF-445575584.jpg.056ba4965c5cbd6994ca11aa581d46c9.jpg</div>

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<p>Thanks Joe,</p>

<p>I figured there might be an element of suck it and see to my query.</p>

<p>At present I'm leaning towards the wide angle model as I can use it on a greater range of lenses and don't have to play with masking.</p>

<p>I checked out the SRB-Griturn site- no in house hoods listed at present (always the way.........)</p>

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<p>Matthew, just out of curiosity, are you seeing ghosting or veiling flare with your 35-70/2.8 Nikkor? So far I've seen only ghosting flare, and even that only a few times when shooting fire and emergency vehicles at night - some noticeable ghosts from the bright lights in the frame. I haven't tried my Cokin filters on the 35-70/2.8D AF Nikkor. Cokin offers a snap on plastic hood but it's barely adequate.</p>
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<p>Hi Lex,</p>

<p>I'm battling heavy veiling flare, the ghosts usually don't appear until I place the sun in the frame (never tried shooting any other intense light sources) and even the the ghosts are small and don't bother me so much. Of course I have no filter attached and the outer elements are clean but even the sun placed well out of frame and under a moderate overcast cloud cover will flare the lens out to the point where I'm reaching for the bag to swap it for something else.<br>

I've been spoilt as my AF-S 17-35mm/2.8 is very good at flare control and I'm probably living in hope that all other lenses should be as good in this respect.....</p>

<p>Before I lash out on a Lee hood I think I'll make a dark cardboard hood of similar scale - attach it and block out any gaps and see if it makes a significant difference.</p>

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<p>Interesting - I'll have to try my 35-70 again outdoors in daylight and see if I can produce veiling flare. I mostly use it for candids, which may be why I haven't noticed that problem.</p>

<p>The homebrewed hood from something like black construction paper is a handy trick for guesstimating the size and shape needed for a more durable hood. I need to do that for my 70-210 Vivitar Series 1, which is a pretty good zoom but very prone to veiling flare outdoors.</p>

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<p>I know the 35-70mm/2.8 is known for flare, I assumed it was heavy washout type flare as mine did this from the first time I used it. I spat the dummy with this lens at Multnomah Falls OR. in May 2011 the sun was hidden under overcast sky but the flare sheeted right across the frame and there are only so many angles one can set up on when that much water is coming down the falls..... I've only just begun to use it again in Feb. 2012 after a long hiatus in the 2nd lens bag [read 'sin bin'] i wonder if my copy has something amiss inside?</p>

<p>I've found a moulded PVC stormwater pipe joiner section which goes from 90mm round pipe to 120mm rectangular pipe - this might save me several hours of messing about with scissors and glue.....</p>

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