LED lights for shooting artwork

Discussion in 'Lighting Equipment' started by lynnherring, Dec 3, 2017.

  1. Stop, stop, stop. Here's what you said (post #16), "I've seen photo-quality CFL tubes of around 200 watts - equivalent to 1Kw of tungsten."

    All you had to say (at least to satisfy me) is that you have not actually SEEN them, but rather just read it in their literature.

    My post #18 on the matter is from experience in trying to find such an animal, with no success. My post #13 gives the reason why I don't think they exist.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2017
  2. Not sure if you're speaking generally about all LED's as something you read or is first hand knowledge from being directly involved in the construction and design at these light bulb companies. It doesn't explain very much especially since you don't show what colors aren''t reproduced shooting real artwork with LED's.

    Do you see color gaps in the CCchart images I posted? I've been taking quite a few shots of random colored objects in my home and studio lit under these lights and they look spot on next to my display with a little adjusting of white balance and contrast in post.

    I'm not seeing an issue with reproducing blue under these lights. The only thing I'm disappointed in is that I can't get the one on the left from the manufacturer and have to use the yellowish one on the right. Both can easily reproduce my Epson Inkjet prints with a click for R=G=B.

    IMGP8022-ColortempHue-OBA.jpg
     
  3. As others have mentioned (and as yet others have poo-poo'd) LEDs are not an ideal solution for photographing art work, which I assume you want to be colour-accurate.

    I recommend you "invest in a better lighting kit." In particular, I'd get flash. I don't know about your softboxes, but with enough duct tape, you should be able to put an off-camera flash in one of the softboxes.

    So, you'll need at least one flash (two, if you can afford it) and the proper cables for using them off the camera. I use a pack/head system, but that may be beyond your needs, unless you do this often. You can get a couple "speedlights" (flashes designed to be mounted on the camera) and then get cables to use them off-camera from various sources that will work with your Nikon to do "through the lens" (TTL) light control.

    The "gold standard" for art reproductions is two softboxes with two flashes, oriented 45 degrees on either side of the artwork, unless the art is framed, in which case, use polarizing film on the flashes and a crossed polarizer on the lens. (I do fine art reproductions and art photography for a living.)

    Despite opinions to the contrary, the colour rendition problems with both CFSs and LEDs are real, but they may or may not be a problem for you!
     
    Charles_Webster likes this.

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