Latest with the E-M1 Mark II and 12-100mm f4 M. Zuiko

Discussion in 'Olympus' started by Greg M, Nov 10, 2017.

  1. Thanks Mary.
    I will keep that in mind when I start to shop for an ultra-wide. Not any time soon.
    I'm trying to prioritize which lens to get in what order.
    Mary Doo likes this.
  2. I generally find the use of tripods and any type of filter a royal PITA, expose for highlights and process the raw files as needed, in the case of Olympus raw files, both in Adobe Camera raw and DXO, but primarily in DXO Photo Lab once ISO levels have to climb, which is quite excellent in terms of noise filtering and ability to push shadow details as needed in cases where I sacrificed a little for the sake of the highlights.

    It works pretty darn well with either program. Gary, I'm looking forward to 10 days in your neck of the woods from July 20-30 when I visit my daughter in Fairfield. Plan on doing a lot of driving and photography, up and down the coast
  3. Greg,
    Warning. Calif has some wild temp swings during the day.
    It can be shorts and T-shirt during the day, then jeans, down jacket and watch cap when the sun goes down. And that was July 4th.
  4. A few more from last weekend at the Arboretum, I did several of these to include shadow/bright areas to work on my dynamic range processing in Adobe Camera raw.

    The highlights-end has a decent amount of headroom to work with. Watching the histogram as I set the exposure I can let the red "overexposure" warning crawl about half-way up the right-hand border and still be able to do fine with the resulting highlights when processing in ACR.







    Mary Doo and Gary Naka like this.
  5. I'm kind of curious about this camera I've heard nothing but good things about this Olympus.

    I was in Samy's Camera the other day and I'm starting to look at this camera and the guy showed me two 17 by 22 Prints side by side. He asked me if I could tell him which one was from the Olympus and which one was for from a Canon full-frame 24 megapixel camera. They were so close I could hardly tell the difference I chose the wrong one ,five other people chose the wrong one which just shows how good this camera actually is.

    The salesman went on to tell me that he sold all of his Nikon gear to get this camera it seems rather pricey for a micro 4/3. Curious to get some feedback from you guys some of you have had this camera for a little while what's your how do you rate it what's your feedback on this camera is it as good as I'm hearing?
  6. I like it as a lighter alternative to the Nikon gear. This aspect can especially be significant if you like to shoot wildlife and the Nikon/Canon way is to use big and heavy lenses. M43 presents comparable results with lighter cameras and lenses that are hand-holdable. Also, in tricky lighting condition, I can pretty much tell whether the exposure is correct - for what I want to light up - by looking through the viewfinder and adjusting it on the fly. There are many other features over the old way that I have not fully explored yet, such as HDR on the fly, the various filters that one can use to produce different effects, focus-stacking (a big one which I have yet to get it done correctly)... many features.

    On the flip side, I am still not completely sure if M43 has caught up with Nikon/Canon's focus-tracking ability. The Olympus E-M1 II has great abilities, but I have not fully tested it with flying birds, etc.
    Gary Naka and michael_radika like this.
  7. Michael,

    I shoot both Nikon DX and Olympus m4/3.
    I got the Olympus for size and weight reduction over my Nikon kit.
    A DX kit it not much lighter than a FX kit when:
    1) you are using a D7200 which is close to the D750 in weight.
    2) you are using FX lenses.

    I found that I was taking out the P&S instead of the DSLR, because the DSLR was heavy and bulky.
    But I did not really like shooting with the P&S. For me, its only value was its compact size. Operationally, it was not a camera that I liked to use.
    So the m4/3 was a "tweener." In between the P&S and DSLR.

    The other is as you get older, you cannot carry the weight of gear you did as when you were younger.
    So weight becomes a factor, and the older you get, the more significant a factor it becomes.
    The m4/3 lets me stay mobile in my shooting, rather than be tied to a tripod or monopod to support the camera.

    Mary said something that I had not considered, until I got my Olympus.
    With the Olympus, I can see the exposure in real time and adjust it BEFORE I take the shot.
    With the DSLR, I would have to take the shot, look at the screen, estimate the correction, adjust the exposure, shoot, check again, and repeat until I got a good exposure. On tricky light shots, this was a PiA.
    I've shot in enough of these situations to appreciate this feature.
    This is a major workflow improvement for me.
    michael_radika and Mary Doo like this.
  8. Thank you for your reply and the information on the camera. I know what you mean about getting older and carry more weightI no doubt about that.

    doesn't this camera have some type of pixel shift feature or something that you can actually bump up the megapixels to like 40 or 50 if it's a still image? Seems like a very interesting concept.
    Mary Doo likes this.
  9. It's Sony a7RIII - 45 megapixels! Looks like it's a pain to do the pixel shift correctly. It's a full frame mirrorless camera - not the same as the Olympus M43 cameras we have been discussing.
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2018
  10. The E-M1 Mark II does offer a pixel-shift option to create large, high resolution files. I have never used the function because it really requires a tripod (which I hate totting) to keep the camera rock-steady as the images the camera collects as it builds the image have to be EXACT, even thought the image collection process is very fast. If there's a lot of movement by anything within the image, you'll see a blurring in that detail so static landscapes is the primary target of the process.
    Mary Doo likes this.
  11. I didn't know that. Thanks Greg.

    Definitely NOTHING can move even slightly in the process to achieve what it's meant to do. Btw I can't find any video demonstrating its success. I will check it out sometime, though I believe these things are good in theory but hard to achieve, even if the Olympus algorithm is solid, because the successful execution depends on everything being micro-still. It probably can be effective on architectures on a still day with a solid tripod, and remote shutter control, in perfect lighting, but not practical even for landscape photography. I did try Focus Stacking on macro subjects a few times which perhaps employs a different but similar process but have not yet acquired a satisfactory result.

    Good to know. Thanks again.
  12. "Mary said something that I had not considered, until I got my Olympus.
    With the Olympus, I can see the exposure in real time and adjust it BEFORE I take the shot."

    Absolutely, and it even gets better. I have my FN2 button configured to be the one touch "go to infinity" setting on all of my lenses. In the cogs menu, A3, there is a "preset MF Distance" setting I have set to 999.9 meters (infinity) and I customized the FN2 button to go to the pre-set manual focus distance so anytime I just want to pre-set the lens in use to infinity all I have to do is hit that button, which is way more accurate than trying to set the manual focus scale, where the "infinity" mark, isn't necessarily infinity the way those things work today.

    I also have my "record" button set to change my EVf to "S-OVF", which is to mimic as best as possible an optical viewfinder, allowing me to use flash indoors in manual exposure mode, select any shutter speed/aperture/ISO setting and be able to see/frame subjects and shoot just like I was using a DSLR.

    There are so many ways to customize this camera to the way you want to shoot it.
    Gary Naka and Mary Doo like this.
  13. Two excellent tips. I will try to set them on mine later.
  14. The S-OVF setting also works really well for composing outdoors in heavy shade. One can use the regular view to set the exposure, lock that exposure or shoot manually like I do, and then one-click into S-OVF mode to brighten the view to make accurate composition easier.
    Gary Naka and Mary Doo like this.
  15. Thanks Greg. Please pass on any practical and useful tip.
  16. This shortcut will be useful to me - say for nightsky photography, which I like to do. Hwvr, I do have a concern because the optimum Infinity setting may not be at the furthest infinity indicator of the lens. Has this been a problem or does Olympus take care of it when it's set to 999.9? Thanks.
  17. There's also a distance graph below the distance you set with an infinity mark, and you can set the distance in either feet or meters. When I set it to 999.9 meters, the graph shows it being set to infinity. I do not enable the touch screen, but if you do have touch screen enabled, you MAY be able to just drag the distance marker all the way to the right to the infinity mark, but setting to 999.9 meters does the same thing.

    The times I've utilized the one-touch manual focus with the FN2 button it's seemed to work fine and been at true infinity. The camera seems to refocus the lens/reset infinity as you zoom. Since these are all varifocal lenses and not "true" zooms, that makes sense.
  18. Man I have a LOT to learn.

Share This Page