Konica Autoreflex T Jammed Shutter

<p>In my quest to find the "just right" collection of Konica SLRs and Hexanon glass, I purchased a lot off of craigslist a little while ago. A decent Autoreflex T body with some typical lenses, plus a rare early 57/1.4 Hexanon. <br>

The camera was fine for a couple of rolls of outdated Portra 160NC last weekend. I took the 135/3.5 along with the 57mm and headed to Branch Brook Park for the cherry blossoms on Easter Sunday. <br>

Meterless (bad contact ?), I fared well guessing exposures in sunlight and shade with wide-open apertures. Portra is quite forgiving, IMO.<br>

Just the other day, however, the film advance lever became stuck. The mirror isn't up and glued to old foam ( I replaced it when I received the camera). The shutter isn't cocked and the self-timer wasn't tripped accidentally. I unscrewed the bottom plate hoping to reset the camera somehow, but mechanicals are different than what I'm used to....<br>

Anyone have a good schematic or tutorial for resetting the shutter on Autoreflexes?</p>

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<p>Lovely Spring photos and lovely daughters too! Sorry no help on Konica T shutter problem. I can tell you've seen one or the other shutters in your experience . Once I had a similar situation with a Yashica FX 2. After being dumbfounded on what to do next I took a tongue depressor to the curtain and probed it just a little then suddenly "bang" the shutter fired (scared the hell out of me ) and then the lever advance was free and it still works . Maybe you'll have some luck like this too!!</p>

 

<p>Nope, Chuck, tried that as first resort, too.<br>

Seems like there's a disconnect somewhere else in the camera. When i free up the pawl underneath the camera, the film advance lever moves freely again, but neither the mirror nor the shutter curtains are engaged.<br>

I'd tear the top of the camera off, but I can't seem to get the cap on the film advance lever off.</p>

Gabor- while I'm at a loss as to what to suggest for your camera, I would like to complement you on your excellent photos.

<p>Thanks Chuck, and Mike, for the compliments. It's hard getting these two gals to sit still for anything, whether in stuff outfits or play clothes.<br>

As you can see, I'm keeping the Hexanons for their wide-open characteristics. I had a couple of 135 f/3.2 's , but they just didn't look "right" to me.<br>

The 57/1.4 is a beast of a lens and this one will need servicing soon; focus ring starting to skip a wee bit.<br>

Well, I guess the Konica will be shelved for a bit. Plenty of other toys to play with. Chuck and Rick's posts have inspired me to dust off the V'landers.</p>

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<p>Gabor -<br>

Lovely photos and even lovlier kids!<br>

Try contacting Mr. Oleson.<br>

<a href="mailto:rick_oleson@yahoo.com">rick_oleson@yahoo.com</a><br>

I think he's got lots of teardown and disassembly drawings to provide intell.<br>

<a href="http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/forum/messages/2/17544.html?1268931605">http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/forum/messages/2/17544.html?1268931605</a><br>

Jim</p>

<p>The 57/1.4 is not terribly rare. I have many of them. The very shiny one without the lock pin is from the time of the original Auto Reflex (Autorex in Japan) and is not as common. Konica was the only company to use a special "bumper" system with a Copal Square shutter. The method Konica used to lock in the selected aperture before the shutter was tripped required a long throw. There is a kind of batting material which sits under the shutter triggering mechanism to smooth things out. Greg Weber has replaced this material on Autoreflex T2 and A1000 bodies for me. You can contact him at (402) 721-3873 or by e-mail at <a href="mailto:gweber@webercamera.com">gweber@webercamera.com</a>. If my memory is correct the bumper system was dropped with the introuction of the T3 in 1973. The T3 has its own problems and that's a story for another time. The T3N was improved and is still a nice camera to use. I recently added a third Konica 135/2.5 Hexanon to my collection. If you like selective focus this would be a good one to try. They come up on eBay ocassionally and Greg usually has some too.</p>

<p>Thanks guys for the compliments and suggestions for Messrs. Oleson and Weber. I'll pick their brians soon.<br>

Right now I'm having to much fun with my newly-acquired Pentax SV. No light meter, wonderfully compact, and a great platform for Super-Taks. Only problem is non-functioning self-timer and faulty "T" shutter speed. I'll address these issues at a later date.<br>

I won this Pentax a little while ago and it came with a clean 55/1.8. Trouble was, the seller shipped the wrong camera. I received another bidder's Yashica Minimatic-C instead. Really nice specimen with working selenium meter. Brightest Yashica viewfinder I ever peeked through! Luckily, the Yashica guy lived Downtown. I drove through the Holland the other night and swapped cameras in person.</p>

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<p>Splendid shots !</p>

<p>Some years ago, I bought an AutoReflex T on a flee market for almost nothing, because its shutter was blocked the same way as yours. I was not sure that it was badly broken, so I <strong>ONLY removed the base plate and fiddled somehow inside with a tiny screwdriver</strong>. I do not remember exactly how, I figured that something seemed misplaced (in front of, instead of behind...) and without forcing anything, put it back like seemed right... and the camera fired the shutter. Then I cocked it carefully and it still worked OK. Since, I had no problem with it, it has even its Auto EE mode fully functional.</p>

<p>If you feel that you have forced nothing, you should try this method : even if you do not understand exactly why, you may be able to repair the camera. Good luck !</p>

<p>Paul</p>

 

<p>"<em>Some years ago, I bought an AutoReflex T on a flee market for almost nothing, because its shutter was blocked the same way as yours. I was not sure that it was badly broken, so I <strong>ONLY removed the base plate and fiddled somehow inside with a tiny screwdriver</strong>. I do not remember exactly how, I figured that something seemed misplaced (in front of, instead of behind...) and without forcing anything, put it back like seemed right... and the camera fired the shutter. Then I cocked it carefully and it still worked OK. Since, I had no problem with it, it has even its Auto EE mode fully functional</em>"<br>

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<strong>I know this is an old thread but I purchased an old Autoreflex T2 at a garage sale for 3-bucks (looked brand new) and it had the same problem with the timer being stuck on and the camera being totally jammed. I removed the bottom plate and "fiddled" with the levers within and was able to get the timer to wind down and the shutter to fire. It took all of five minutes. I think the problem may have been that someone set the camera's speed to B then tried to actuate the timer which some how made everything jam. Just a theory but it was set to B and jammed when I bought it; anyway thanks for the helpful thread....</strong></p>

 

Hello gabor_szabo,

I realize this is a very old thread, if u ever read this please let me know if you had any luck with the jammed trigger situation. I got the same camera w the same issue. Thanks

Hello gabor_szabo,

I realize this is a very old thread, if u ever read this please let me know if you had any luck with the jammed trigger situation. I got the same camera w the same issue. Thanks

I also have same problem (or similar) with my autoflex T. if anybody could offer any pointers, would very much appreciate

Hi as you said this is an old thread... The later two posters polka and Robert_p said they took off the bottom plate and "fiddled" with something... I would do same...also check with B setting and possible Timer settings.

Funny thing, just after reading this thread I went to a thrift store today and there was an Autoreflex T, and sure enough, the shutter was jammed. It didn't respond to any normal fiddling and since I've disencumbered myself of all my Konicas I passed it by, but thought it an interesting coincidence.

That was a sign Matthew!! I need to disencumber myself from some cameras too... Give me the power to "pass"

My two T-series Konicas work well and thus I have no direct experience here, but I remember having encountered the same "misterious" shutter freeze several years ago on a different camera (I think it was a Minolta 101-303 series). After a lot of fiddling around, it came out that the film rewind release button was stuck in the depressed position. Not sure whether this has any relation to the problem being discussed,