Of course you can expect a frame that can be printable, with increased base fog. Even with lots of base fog you can get an image. The thing is to get it properly exposed (loss of sensivity).
Load a holder with two (2) sheets. Find a "test subject" that has a full range of values. Place camera upon a very solid tripod. Meter for a correct exposure using ASA 250. Do not pull dark slide fully out, but open approximately 1/3. Expose #1. Recock the shutter and pull dark slide out another 1/3 and expose #2. Recock shutter and pull dark slide all the way out. Expose #3. Re-insert dark slide. Your film holder now has exposures of 1x, 2x and 4x of your metering. Develop this film and see which segment gives the best negative. Evaluate fog level (if any) and plan on using a "small" amount of KBr for further use of the film. Aloha, Bill
The best information I've seen about this was posted on this site by Ron Andrews. Take a look at his answer in this thread... Life expectancy for refrigerated film Short answer... the film will be affected by storage, but of course it's still possible to use it for making photographs.
Different people have different ideas of acceptable, and it might even depend on the situation. Always refrigerated, I suspect it is in great shape. Even not refrigerated Tri-X is pretty good to 20 years at normal room temperature. Not so bad at 30 years. This is 35mm Tri-X developed 30 years after exposure, in the camera for those years. You might see some fogging in the black areas, but otherwise it is pretty good.
I have a large stash of 320TXP in 220 size dating as far back as 2007. I expose it at ISO 250 and develop in HC-110B (which has great anti-fog capabilities which lends itself well to expired film) with great results. I would imagine it will be fine for 4x5 as well.
Yes HC-110(B) is my favorite for older film. I also have Diafine (which I have been using for over 50 years), and more recently TMax, which I use with TMax film, especially for push processing. Negative films commonly do better with a little more exposure. With manual exposure cameras, like the FM I used for many years, I would commonly round up when setting the exposure. I still often use black and white film in manual setting cameras. So, I commonly don't say that I expose for a lower EI value, even if I do that. In any case, less than 20 year old Tri-X (as far as I know, any version) works pretty well at less than 20 years old. I once tried to find some Kodak Anti-fog 1, benzotriazole, but never found any. But usually HC-110 works pretty well without it.
