Kodak T-MAX developer: why so disliked in forums?

<p>It is always the same story being told: not made for T-MAX films (what then for?), the name is a misnomer. Hardly anybody has something good to say about it. Are people just repeating what the have read, or have they run some test themselves?</p>

<p>OK, it expensive, but then it is liquid, and that is convenient. OK, it is said to be best at 24°C and that may be inconvenient is some locations (but an an advantage in other).</p>

<p>I have just tested it with both TMX and TMY and I am very satisfied, especially as I like to shoot at twice the box speed. I am shooting 35 mm and my standard paper sizes are 24x30 cm (roughly 10x12 inches) and 30x40cm, both with about 3/4 inch margins all around which means that I enlarge 12-14 times.</p>

<p>My testing is the result of my effort to simplify my photo hobby and use only one developer and two films, or one film and two developers.</p>

<p>Looking forward to hearing what your experience has been with the TMAX developer for 35mm film.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/00WS1w</p>

<p>In my digital workflow, T-Max developer produces negs with too much grain for my taste. For scanning TMX, TMY, and Fuji Acros, I have found XTOL 1:1 to be far superior to T-Max developer in terms of grain.<br>

Since you enlarge your negs instead of scanning them, your experience will likely be different.</p>

<p>Christer,<br>

I've learnt that comments and opinions are best taken with a grain of salt.<br>

I've much found out that many pieces of advice don't apply to my tastes, for example I've found out that T-Max developer will yield beautiful shadow details plus it has a long shelf life due to being formulated in glycol, X-Tol is not so convenient because it's powder and tend to make flakes inside the bottle. I've also found out that I dislike Rodinal and that I need a stop bath and an hardening fixer, I've found also out that I need to use tap water for the final rinse with wetting agent otherwise I get streaks across the negative.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Just like I have found that many people say never use Stand development with 35mm film. I love using it and get great results. If it works for you then use it.<br>

Larry</p>

<p>Actually T-Max is a good choice for your situation because you said you like to shoot at 2X box speed. Kodak specifically recommends T-Max developer for pushing. I'd say you're following the recommendations just fine, and getting the hoped for results. I shoot at 0.5X box speed and would sooner use it as a drain cleaner or floor polish, though not as a desert topping. That's why we have developer choices ;-)</p>

<p>I can tell you from my old experiences, when TMAX and TMAX developer were new, the two together didn't work out so well. HC110 with a temerature and agitation carefully controlled in a JOBO was much better. This also was not my discovery, I just know I didn't get good results and went to the beckoning of my fine mentors to help me out. In time it seems, over the years, things have changed and the film as well as the developer is different in ways I cannot explain, I'll leave that to others who speak the science better than I. All said, I still use the HC110 and only Illford films so I have not had contact with the TMAX family in some time. Like Larry says, follow what works for you, I find this great for my own sanity. I am really stagnated here right now and only running black and white two or three times a year, so once I save up the film and mix up the stuff, I want it all right the first time.</p>

<p>I use Tmax developer at 1:7 with Tri-X 120 film and like it.</p>

<p>I used to use it for TMAX 3200 and Fuji Neopan 1600 until I started using HC110. Like others, I didn't particularly care for the look of TMX and TMY in this soup. To be fair, I haven't tried the new versions of these films yet with TMAX developer.</p>

<p>I am very satisfied about results with B&W Kodak films ( incl.different size). I had good result with Ilford films too.</p>

<p>Not sure about the rest, but I do like this film developer. I never tried it until i got my hands on a sidekick film processor from a lab that was shutting down. They process all b&w films with Tmax. I used it with every film from the old Verichrome to the late Agfa. I got nice results from it as I do with other developers. I mixed my solution 1:5 and not 1:4 just for contrast. It's easy to mix, clean up are none and the processing times are fast. I just ran my on simple test to my liking like all developer I use. It's better than nothing. I'm more of D76 and PMK. I found these where great developers and just love the results.</p><div></div>

<p>While it might not be the ultimate developer for Tmax films, Tmax developer is great for getting box speed out films like Tri-x. Agree with Alessandro on the plus factors regarding the simple work flow of liquid developer along with the fact it's long lasting after opening. Overall I think it deserves a better reputation than it has.</p>

<p>Well I can say I tried it and found it lacking to HC-110 but then again that may just be due to my work flow. So maybe a new thread can be started call "In Praise of TMAX developer. :)</p>

<p>Larry good idea.</p>

<p>But it will only work if there is a sticky type of thing as people never use the search function. :)</p>

<p>T-Max has long been my favorite developer because of its good performance and long life. I usually shoot at half the film manufacturers suggested exposure index for full shadow detail. If a higher exposure index is needed, a faster film seems to work better than boosting slower film. T-Max 3200 is a great film compared to its predecessor, RE 2475, and pushed ISO 400 films.</p>

<p>Thank you all for your comments and responses!</p>

<p>A few years ago one could buy TMAX developer in two-packs; each bottle containing (I believe 250ml). The selling point was that this way you could be sure to use fresh developer. I took this to mean that the keeping properties of the developer was not that outstanding once the bottle had been opened.</p>

<p>Now the smallest size in Europe is the one litre bottle and the Kodak says: "You can store working-strength solution in a full, tightly closed bottle for six months, in a half-filled bottle for two months, or in a covered tank for one month. You can store the concentrate for up to two years."</p>

<p>I am sure there is some safety margin built into these figures. Has TMAX developer been reformulated recently or was I misreading the message from the 250 ml bottles?</p>

<p>In my experience good exposure and well-controlled development times have much larger effects than subtle differences between developers. That said, I like XTOL more.</p>

<p>I like TMAX developer with TMAX films. I don't like it with others. I never got XTOL to work for me at all. My prefered combination is Tri-X in PMK.</p>