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Kodak Professional DCS ProSLR/n/c batteries and adapters


JDMvW

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<p>I am posting this here because I think</p>

<ol>

<li>more Nikon versions of this camera were sold than the Canon-mount versions</li>

<li>many people seem to not be looking any more at the Casual Conversations forum</li>

<li>the cable I am looking for is almost certainly the same as on the Nikon version.</li>

</ol>

<p>I have always felt that “Google is your friend”. But sometimes even old friends fail you. When I search for “Pro DC Power Module” and variants, I find mostly USB plugs. So I turn to our assembled group. <br /><br />I am trying to find a cable for the power adapter to the camera for a Kodak ProSLR/c. As said, I am confident that this is the same cable as on the Nikon version of this camera, the Kodak ProSLR/n .</p>

<p>I might add that I am having some problems with my ProSLR/c that I think may be due to not having enough "juice" in the batteries. If you know of a source for new batteries, that'd be real nice too.</p><div>00e1xK-564049884.jpg.bc3b9b7b03c53a2138a200728c6409ee.jpg</div>

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<p>Normally, when I need some kind of odd cable or whatever, my local Radio Shack (we still have one) will have something, but in this case, not.<br /><br />So here are some illustrations of the connections. The ><strong>DC Out</strong>< on the Kodak AC Adapter seems to be completely standard, so:<br /><br /></p><div>00e1xM-564050084.jpg.d7c929cd165ce938e2c658859b5264c5.jpg</div>
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<p>Can anyone who knows, or whose Google skills are greater than mine, tell me if they know of any cable like this one, and where I might find it?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>As further justification for bothering you Nikon users, I can say that I was one from 1971 to 2004. I seriously considered getting the ProSLR/n at the time, but found that it would almost certainly not take my non-AI lenses, of which my whole assemblage of lenses was.</p>

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<p>If you still have trouble finding what you need, another resource I use is Flickr. There probably is a Flickr group dedicated to this camera, and you could post a question to it. I too love buying and using old cameras, although my preference is 1900--1940. My 1914 Kodak Special No.2 with Optimo shutter is working perfectly. My 1904 Brownie seems indestructible. Will my D800e still be working 100 years from now? Doubtful. Most likely it will be lack of a battery that kills it.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

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<p>Thanks all,<br /> After many calls, I got to B&H who sent me to their most recommended repair facility Photo Tech (212)673-8400. They couldn't help directly but referred me to the former Kodak repair people at United Electronics in Chicago (630) 595-2525. Yes, that was the outfit that would have repaired the camera in the day when, as I confirmed when I called them.<br /> Unfortunately, when Kodak left the business altogether, United cleared out all of their legacy parts and service, and no longer repair any Kodak cameras.<br /> Nothing else seems to be even close, so I ordered the part found by Richard (to whom, kudos). <br /> It's non-returnable as a special order, so we shall see. I'll post here when I get the part and see if it works.</p>

<p><br /> It does seem likely, however, that the power adapter cable for the Kodak DCS <strong>ProSLR 14n (Nikon F Mount)</strong> <em><strong>IS DIFFERENT</strong></em> from the correspoonding cable for the DCS 14c, so the initial assumption that led me to post here seems to have been false.</p>

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<p>If the Quatum cable works on the camera end, it says the other end is intended to go into a Quantum Battery 2. If you don't have a good battery for your camera, then a Battery 2 may be the way to go. An external battery and not as convenient, but better than a dead camera. I think Quantum might also make a similar battery that attaches to the bottom of a camera via the tripod thread.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>That looks like a more or less standard barrel connector to me. If you can measure the dimensions, that's a good start. The Wikipedia page also covers the common variations as well as part numbers you could plug into an electronics supply vendor (DigiKey, Mouser, Farnell/Newark, etc.).</p>

<p><a href="http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/59595/how-can-i-tell-the-size-of-a-barrel-power-connector">http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/59595/how-can-i-tell-the-size-of-a-barrel-power-connector</a><br>

<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_power_connector">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_power_connector</a></p>

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<p>That.s a basic DC adapter coupling, with an outer shield.</p>

<p>A couple years ago, I bought a complete, "used-W/box & candy," from a retired Pro. I love it so much, I got another for backup.</p>

<p>Midwest Photo Repair sells what parts are left. (I have a boatload of batteries & wondering how to keep them, as when they are gone......, alas all gone.)</p>

<p>The Kodak SLR Talk on DPR, is alive and well. When I read all the bad press on the SLR/n here on PN, I assume this forum is just trying to sell new cameras.</p>

<p>The Kodak PQ, Blows Away any, all the 10-24mp Nikon bodies. (My only wish, it were to.... have an Ai ring.)</p>

<p>Just my honest opinion.</p>

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<p>JDM,..... (and anybody:)</p>

<p>If you dig a bit on the Kodak DSLR forum on DPR, there is a person who has the whole "take apart, & fix it yourself," guide. He/Who/They? even offers a custom firmware (Alex D) upgrade so the camera supports 14 bit raw files.</p>

<p>When I posted a quest about sensor cleaning, he responded that it's easier to pull the sensor board & do it right.</p>

<p>Many, (or most) people cannot see, or discern the 3-D like quality that the Kodak produces. It's almost like using one of the Google/Nikon filters..... sort of like a mild "Glamour Glow." There's a bit of magic in that oddball, old sensor.</p>

<p>(And where in the heck are you going to find a DSLR with a "Made in USA," tag on the bottom?)</p>

<p>I realize that most people never even dabbled with film. The Kodak reproduces the "Ooh's & Aah's" of viewing a positive film slide in one of those old "eye peep" viewers on the old ground glass or silver projection screens.</p>

<p>If they put that sensor & camera imaging software into an ergo-friendly Nikon, mag framed body......it would be photographic bliss. However I'm fine with the cumbersome blob & it's "No Chimp" display.</p>

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<p>My health is still keeping me from any kind of lengthy expedition away from house and home, but I truly am looking forward to trying this camera ("14/c") out.<br>

I did an abbreviated report on the earlier 6-MP Kodak DCS 560 ( http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00e0Tk ) and was very favorably impressed with it. It is still in "like-new" condition, but the ProSLR/c was more beat up, and I've been--as I said--having some problems with the menu access on it.</p>

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

<p>Final report:<br>

I got the Quantum Model MDC3 power cord.<br>

It does <strong><em>NOT</em></strong> work with the Kodak DCS ProSLR model, alas. It is supposed to wrk with the DCS520 and other early Kodak and Canon digitals, so maybe I'll be able to use it later.</p>

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  • 2 years later...

It's an old thread, but it pops up in Google searches and I thought I'd chip in. I have the same problem as the OP - a 14N with a handful of batteries and a charger, plus the fake-battery power coupler unit, but not the cable that connects the charger to the coupler. I don't like to use the batteries too often because there are no replacements.

 

However I've found that you don't need that cable, or indeed the charging unit. I've been using a generic power adapter plugged directly into the fake-battery coupler. I'm not going to directly link to Amazon but if you google "Powseed 36W AC Multi Voltage" you'll get the chap, although I imagine any charger than can output roughly 7-8v at 3 amps+ would work. This particular unit comes with a bunch of different plugs and the biggest one fit my 14N.

 

I set it to 7.5v, at which voltage it can deliver 4 amps. The minor voltage difference hasn't phased the camera so far. I've just shot 40 images over the course of an hour and a half and the camera is still working fine. Off the top of my head it's supposed to have 7.3v / 3 amps, but not many chargers put out exactly that figure.

 

So as long as you have the fake-battery power coupler you can at least use the 14N tethered for the foreseeable future.

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The specs of the 14N isn't too bad by today standard. It's 14MP FF compared to the current Nikon Df with 16MP but however I think it's worth less than the D760 when you try to sell it.

I think the Kodak 14N's problem was that it was based on a very consumer-grade Nikon N80/D100 type body. The N80 was a $300 film SLR in those days. The 14N could do 1.8 frames/sec and was quite slow with fairly poor AF.

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I think the Kodak 14N's problem was that it was based on a very consumer-grade Nikon N80/D100 type body. The N80 was a $300 film SLR in those days. The 14N could do 1.8 frames/sec and was quite slow with fairly poor AF.

Yes I was interested pretty much in the 14N as it's the first FF DSLR with Nikon F mount but was turned off by the use of the N80 body.

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