Kodak HIE Infrared exposed 17 years ago

<p>I have a roll of exposed Kodak HIE Infrared that's been in my freezer since around 1999. What development process would likely give me the most usable results? Would you go for the standard E6 process and hope for the best or would you try BW chemistry?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I would go with C-41.</p>

The process probably doesn't matter if the images are so unimportant that you leave the exposed film for 17 years before development ;)

<p>If it was mine, I'd email someone like <a href="http://www.northcoastphoto.com/">North Coast Photo</a>, and ask what they recommend. Occasional HIE images show up on their Facebook image stream, so they're still getting the odd roll. </p>

I thought HIE was black & white. I'd use HC 110.

<p>HIE was B&W, so E6 and C-41 would be relatively useless. Not that I'd expect much from it at this age. Even two years expired, it was fairly grainy (like golf ball sized). HC-110 is usually the go-to for older films, but I never used it for HIE. My standard was Sprint film developer at 68 F, 1:9 for (I think) 11:30 min. I know that what I saw on the massive development chart did not work for me. <br>

Good luck - I think you'll need it to get anything decent. But you never know unless you try.</p>

<p>Pardon my Error. The OP Mentioned E6 so I thought it was the Ektachrome version.</p>

Sorry guys. The film is Kodak EIR colour slide

(process E6), not HIE. My memory was

playing tricks.

 

I just never got around to processing it but

now I would love to see what shots I took all

those years ago.

<p>C-41 cross processing will give it more speed and saturation as it has most likely lost both. Since the colors are not true to began with you can have more fun and workable image if you process it in C-41.</p>

<p>Wherever you get it processed make sure they turn off the infrared sensors in the machines or it will all be for nothing...<br>

<strong> </strong><br>

<strong>From the Kodak EIR PDF:</strong><br>

Note: Do not process infrared film in labs using equipment with infrared sensors. The infrared sources used by photofinishers, such as night vision goggles, infrared cameras (used mostly on rack-and-tank machines), or infrared replenishment sensors (used on some roller-transport, continuous and minilab machines), will fog EIR Film. The photofinisher must be willing to turn off their infrared cameras and not use infrared goggles while this film is out of its magazine. Labs using roller-transport processors should first verify the presence of infrared sensors, which detect the length and width of the film for replenishment calculations. Many of these processors have a manual replenishment mode, which will turn off the sensors. Film fogged by infrared radiation in the lab will have an overall crimson red appearance. (It completely fogs the infrared layer, leaving only an image from the red and green sensitive layers.) Labs receiving film for processing with the leader protruding from the magazine should rewind it into the magazine or keep it in a black plastic can until it can be opened in the dark. Some labs’ equipment will not operate if all infrared emitters are disengaged. </p>

<p>Send it to me I do it in a manual tank. I will only charge shipping. I do C-41 and if you want I will try to push it a little.</p>

<p>If not kept frozen, I would not give it much hope, but you say it was frozen. It is still sensitive to cosmic rays, which you can't do anything about. </p>

<p>I had an old roll of IR135-20 (non high-speed) that wasn't kept cold, and couldn't even see the frame boundaries. </p>

<p>Seems to me worth trying, and C41 is probably as good as anything. Then you scan it and make whatever color adjustment you want. </p>

<p>If you get anything useful, people here would like to see it!</p>

<p>Let me give it a try. What is the worst that can happen?</p>

Hi Larry

 

Thanks for your very generous offer but I also

do C-41 here with my Jobo CP-E2. Would you

just process the roll for the standard 3 minutes

15 seconds? Or would you give it a bit longer?

<p>I would give it 15 seconds extra.</p>

<p >I found on the bottom of the freezer a Kodak HIE exposed over 10-years ago. Developed in standard D76 with a very good result.</p>