K1000 shutter speed DIY repair - looking for tips

Discussion in 'Pentax' started by stefantveye, May 2, 2007.

  1. I've been reading up on K1000 repair in 2 different books/manuals. I have a K1000 that has a real bad
    time with the opening curtain moving too slow at the higher shutter speeds (1/125 - 1/1000). So the
    closing curtain is catching up to the opening curtain and blacking out half (or sometimes more) of the
    frame. In know where to adjust the curtain tension and where to adjust the curtain speed on my camera I
    just don't know HOW to adjust it properly to fix the issue.

    The books I've been referencing are the actual Pentax repair manual and an Ed Romney book. Anybody
    ever done this adjustment?
  2. try this link...
  3. Some info please.

    Which era is your K1000? All metal or plastic skin?
    Is there a visible buckle in the 1st or 2nd curtain?
    Does the it have any bumps, baths, falls?
    Last time it was CLA?

  4. Master faster, thanks for the link. That K1000 manual is the one that I've been referencing.
    The other manuals may prove to be useful.

    Warren, I got this K1000 new in 1989. I believe that falls in the metal skin catagory. Both
    curtains look fairly smooth. I haven't seen any bumps or buckles or abnomailities in either
    curtain. Last time I had it in for CLA service was about 9 months ago, and I was NOT happy
    with the place that did it. That's one reason I've been reading up on repair and service. I want
    to be able to do the cleaning and repairs myself, as much as possible.
  5. Stefan, You sound like your going to do quite well at learning how to repair.

    I am a pessimistic person, also have had to undue so called repairs on many of my cameras that I've found as bargains. Looking at the symptoms I would eliminate the direct forms of trouble. Yes, the tensioning might be way off, but check for obstructions first. Check around for over greasing. I've had my MX (purchased new) CLA by some outfit and the "hosed" the camera and lost my screen. Years later was when I found all that dried gunk they left for me. After I got it back (1991ist), I pretty much stopped using it due to poor shutter accuracy. Its much better now.

    Check out this site, using an audio recording software(free)and rigging up a light sensor to make a nice shutter speed tester. check link:

  6. Warren is likely right: the first impulse is always to change the spring tension, but generally the springs do not weaken over time, so something else is causing the problem and changing the tension will only add mis-adjusted springs to the list of things to be corrected later. Dirty bearings can get sticky and slow a curtain down, and something as big as a film chip can stop one cold. Don't change any adjustments until you're sure everything is clean.
  7. Warren, I tend to be pessimistic too but with cameras I'm not letting it get the better of
    me. Haven't found any obstructions and I'm not 100% sure if it's the curtain tension or the
    shutter speed adjustment itself. I'm not sure how little parts are supposed to be greased
    but I don't see gobs of grease when I remove the bottom plate. I shot some test rolls of
    film and speeds slower than 1/125 are still OK. Thanks for the link, reminds me I still need
    to get a shutter speed tester.

    Richard, so far I've been doing what you suggest - I haven't touched any adjustments until
    I'm sure I know what the problem is! Obviously fiddling with the adjustments will just
    make everything worse. I hadn't thought of dirty bearings I'll have to look a little further
    for dirty or over-greased parts.
  8. There won't necessarily be enough dirt to see, or it may not be in a visible place. If you can reach the curtain spindles you might try getting a drop of lighter fluid into the spindle bearings and see if the behavior changes (it may change back when it dries, but at least you'll know you're looking in the right place).

    A nice thing about Pentaxes is that it's much easer to get at the curtain spindles than in most cameras. You can peel back the leatherette and remove the entire lens mount panel by pulling a few screws, exposing the curtain spindles on both sides of the mirror box.
  9. I'll give the spindles a try. I don't have any lighter fluid but I've got nail polish remover which I
    think acts approximately same. Do you happen to know if nail polish remover (acetate) is
    worse than lighter fluid?
    I have yet to remove the front standard of the camera but I know those screws your talking
    about, I think I know where to look. I hope you're right about the dirt, then I could just clean
    it up.
  10. Richard's direction is right and the Lighter fluid too. I would caution the use of polish remover it may be too slow to dry depending on brand and blend. If you over apply, it may get away from your control. You wouldn't want any of it in the shutter curtain. It could unglue something. I recall Lighter fluid is faster at evaporating and I've not had any trouble with it. If you had not had the chance to look through the pdf of the K1000 repair manual do look in to note about mechanism involved in releasing the shutter. Familiarize yourself if not yet.
  11. I have now had some time to familiaze myself with the guide section on the curtain tension
    and such. Unfortunately I won't be near my tools or work space for another month. However I
    did shoot a roll of film over last weekend with the lower speeds (i.e. - 1/60 of a second) and
    had no trouble with exposure. I'm leaning towards adjusting the high speed curtain
    adjustment or the curtain tension, I'm not so sure it's dirt. If it was dirty I would think the
    problem would show up at lower speeds as well.

    I've got a few more weeks to re-read and ponder this. I may find a repairman that I can pay to
    show me how to do this.

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