Just accidentally wound the leader back into the canister

<p>Usually use a Nikon F6 that keeps the leader out. Now trying out a Leica MP and wound the leader all the way back.</p>

<p>Rather than buying a fancy film retriever, can I use a bottle cap opener to pry open the canister?</p>

<p>no don't if you have a old piece of film you can make a retriever<br>

if you open the cart a lab may not accept the film.<br>

http://people.rit.edu/andpph/pf-faq/faq-28.html<br>

note 28 film leader<br>

WARNING BE CAREFUL<br>

this cheap tool can tear the sprocket holes so be gentle</p>

<p>I don't know what you mean by "fancy" film retriever. I got one, didn't cost that much and works perfectly. If you want to use the canister again in your camera, don't fuss around with a bottle cap opener.</p>

 

<p>http://www.photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/00Fipp<br>

this has been discussed</p>

<p>Unless it is a self-loaded film canister, go ahead and use a bottle opener (or whatever) to "pop the top" -- when you do your own developing it's a lot less likely to scratch the film when you get the film out that way, rather than through the felt strip again.<br>

P.S. Don't flame me if you have used a film retriever for 25 years and have never scratched your film ;-)</p>

<p>If you have a minilab in your area, and you have no success with the homemade leader retriever, just go to the lab and ask them to pull the leader. They usually have a tabletop machine that does this for them. Using it is part of the loading procedure for the machines that will develop your negatives automatically. Probably fish it out for you at no charge. </p>

<p>Look, if you're going to process the film yourself, then go ahead and pry it open with an old fashioned can/bottle opener. If it's a reloadable cassette, then you won't need the opener; but you already know that if you had loaded it in the first place. If you're sending it to a lab, do nothing. The lab will retrieve the leader when they process the film. </p>

<p>Thanks. I process my own film. It's been so long since I last had to get film out of a canister other then just pulling on the leader, I forgot how. Presently, I am using Kodak Tri-X, Plus-X and Fuji Neopan so the canisters won't be reused.</p>

<p>Just rip the thing open with your hands in the darkroom. They aren't that tough.</p>

<p>the RIT method seemed to work when I tried it<br>

a better tool could be made.<br>

I read all the otther methods and the Dymo tape method seems workable,</p>

<p>the RIT method seemed to work when I tried it<br>

a better tool could be made.<br>

I read all the otther methods and the Dymo tape method seems workable,</p>

<p>David, I was used to leaving the leader out, till my last motor drive camera. When I got around to doing some TMax which I intended to process myself I wasn't looking forward to dealing with the fully rewound cannister.</p>

<p>One of my first postings here was on the subject. I ended up using a bottle opener to pry the end of the cannister, no major problem. The film stays fairly well coiled on the inner spool once you free it. One very useful tip I received:</p>

<p>Buy a cheap roll, say color negative film, nothing special, and sacrifice it: pry it open in daylight for practice, and practice loading on your reel.</p>

<p>This is the one I use. A mere $5.00 and as simple as it gets. Follow the instruction and I can get the leader on the first try nearly every time. Nothing fancy about it.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/86403-REG/General_Brand__35mm_Film_Leader_Retriever.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/86403-REG/General_Brand__35mm_Film_Leader_Retriever.html</a></p>

<p>Jason</p>

<p>I have a canister opener that I bought from one of the online photo stores. I bet a bottle opener would work if you could find one. I also read that a guy just bangs the canister on a counter top to open it.</p>

<p>One advantage to leaving the leader out is that the film can be started on the reel in daylight and then the lights turned off. </p>

<p>I can't believe how much wild advice you're receiving here. The relevant truth is that a simple bottle opener--church key--is the way I've always opened my 35mm cassettes.<br>

<br /> Assuming you're right-handed, simply invert the cassette so the protruding spool is down, gently squeeze the film slot to relieve some of the tension on the end cap, then gently pry the end cap upwards. Don't pry it all the way up; turn it about 90 degrees and finally pry the cap off. But please don't attempt to pry an end cap off with either your bare hands or a thumbnail or you'll risk cutting yourself or breaking that nail. Nothing like a little blood on your film to ruin your day.<br>

<br /> I have always pulled the leader back into the cassette when I rewind film. That way if I don't have time to label it at least I know it's exposed film.<br>

<br /> If you're shooting color then retrieving the film leader makes sense and will perhaps save you a little money if your processor charges extra for that sort of thing (I wouldn't know, I don't do color). But fooling with a film retriever with a disposable film cassette you're going to process yourself strikes me as a waste of time and just silly as hell.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I can't believe how much wild advice you're receiving here.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Well, I didn't want to be the first to say so... heh! Fourteen responses in three days which can be summed up as: use a bottle/can opener.</p>

<p>Heck, I'm not complaining. At least the b&w forums are alive and well. Look, here's proof - it's nose is cold and wet, its ears are floppy, tail wagging and it's always happy to oblige.</p>

<p>"I can't believe how much wild advice you're receiving here. The relevant truth is that a simple bottle opener--church key--is the way I've always opened my 35mm cassettes."</p>

<p>Well while I hate to give such crazy advice, I don't care for the bottle opener method nearly as well as useing a $3.00 retrieval tool or not winding the film in all the way. I bend the end of the leader as a mark that it is exposed. This way I can cut the end of the film and trim it up so it will feed onto the reel with ease. I can also start it on the reel in the day light. I don't have to but why not as long as I can.</p>

<p>Jason</p>

<p>I suppose, Jason, for those who have trouble feeding it into the spool that would make sense. I should disclose also that my darkroom isn't just dark, it's completely light-proof, so I haven't had to use a film bag (for those who have to use them) with all of its sweaty difficulties and fumbling inconvience. I'm able to load and develop sheet film in the open because the room is pitch dark. So loading 35mm film reels in such surroundings requires little effort.</p>