Jobo CPE-2 kaputt!

<p>I have a used, at least 2nd hand CPE-2 plus, which I got probably 1.5 years ago and which has served me well. Last night I wanted to process two rolls and the thing broke. The on/off switch basically just turns freely, rather than having the characteristic "click". The fact that the lest few times it did not turn quite as easily (which I wrote off as a problem of the know rather than the switch itself) should probably have tipped me off. Oh well. Any thoughts to whether</p>

<p>- this is repairable, realistically, for a decent cost?<br>

- who could repair it (I am a user, but ask me to solder something and I am useless)?</p>

<p>Appreciate your answers.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Benjamin,</p>

<p>That sounds not all that complicated. Switches like that can be bought in the average electronics store. But well, you need someone with a soldering iron who knows what he is doing...<br>

I have an other type of Jobo drum processor and have taken it apart several times for problems with the outflow of fluids. These machines are pretty straightforward. But again, you need some technical knowledge and the tools....</p>

 

<p>Ah, not just a switch, but from the looks of it a potentiometer with on-off switch.</p>

<p>You need to measure the resistance of the potmeter, know whether it is working linear or logarythmic and find a suitable replacement type. <br>

That can be quite difficult, since the 'feet' with which you solder it to the printed circuit board are not really standardized in their positioning. You might be lucky that is turns out to be a rather standard type. But you first need to find its specifications, by either codes on the side or measuring.<br>

Sometimes it is easier in such cases to make use of a donor machine for spares. I got a donor for my drum processor, but it is a diffirent type from the one you have here.</p><div></div>

<p>A broken donor on a market will probably cost 25 euros.</p>

<p>A second hand working version is around 50 - 100 euros, depending how good it is... Best to be patient and scavenge around on the internet....</p>

 

<p>Thanks Dennis. I think it looks like a potentiometer but the switch for the motor actually looks the same... it was definitely an onn off thing.... but who knows how that works internally. I looked on fleebay, so far nothing... with these things, shipping is quite a bit....</p>

<p>here...</p><div></div>

<p>But it's not a simple one on/off switch. Looking at the lines on the printed circuit board coming from the switch, the switch itself has 4 connections. The question is, in what way does it switch?!</p>

<p>Any way to get a switch of jobo usa? They still do repairs, so they might have some broken parts somewhere...</p>

 

<p>I believe Omega Satter took over Jobo USA.<br>

They may have parts or do service.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.omegasatter.com">www.omegasatter.com</a></p>

<p>Probably due to safety regulations in some country, the power switch has to switch both wires from the power cord. In the US, only one is really hot, but in many parts of the world, both are hot.<br>

Anyplace that can do basic electronics repair should be able to work this out. Any places that still repair televisions around?</p>

 

<p>Somewhere on the switch, sides or bottom, is the information needed to replace it with a non factory substitution. It will be something like DPST, 250V, 3A. DPST=double pole, single throw; SPST=single pole, single throw; voltage, amperage. Do not use a lower voltage or amperage switch. <br>

This appears to be a rotary switch but a toggle switch can be used as a replacement.</p>

<p>I am capable or doing such a replacement.</p>

<p>I had this happen - I think the chemicals wore out the contacts on the switches.<br>

My solution was a bit crude, but very simple. Just replace the old Jobo specific switches/pots with generic ones and connect them with wires to the circuit board. No need for finding the exact part. Means you need a bit of cutting on the external plastic to make them fit, but that's not very hard.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

My temp on the CPE2 is at 24-25oC and i would like it at 20 oC, can i obtaina spare tempearture units ? any suggestions please ? Gerry</p>

 

<p>Down n dirty getyouhome repair for the original question. I'm not recommending this just saying it worked for me. Remove on/off switch gently. Cut one regular paper clip in half. bend and shape paper clip pieces to bridge circuit board. Solder in place and clip ends off neatly. Add insulating material if paranoid. The bridges run across the circuit board rather than along but if that's not apparent to you then you're probably best avoiding this sort of lash-up. As far as I'm concerned there's an on/off switch on the wall and circuit breakers back down the line. Don't forget to water seal the hole in the casing where a switch no longer protrudes. Now does anyone know more about the heater pilot lamp which in my case is corroded beyond redemption and whether a common or garden LED might do that job ? Thanks for all the info on here by the way - back in the day we had to order library books and wait and wait and wait</p>