Is this 7D focus alright - part ll?

As suggested, I upload shots retaken by 7D and for comparison also by 5Dll.<div></div>

by 5Dll<div></div>

by 7D<div></div>

and 5Dll<div></div>

5Dll shots are also RAW

<p>Don't do that, Husain - there's a perfectly good thread on this subject already, where people have given you some excellent advice and asked you some important questions - it doesn't need another thread - and as a courtesy I think <em>at the very least</em> that you need to respond to the people in that thread before starting a new one on exactly the same subject.</p>

These photos are in response to the suggestions/ advice, taking most onboard - how could you miss this? I clearly said this is part ll - what is wrong with this!

<p>First, I have to agree with Keith, it would have been more appropriate and certainly more helpful had you simply uploaded the images to your original thread. This helps because those who have attempted to assist you don’t have to repeat themselves and others don’t waste time offering similar suggestions. Having said this, I think something is wrong here: relative sharpness is determined by many factors; however, camera used is the least important and most difficult to isolate. Lens quality, use of tripod, weather conditions (if shooting outdoors) and what might be classified as “user error” are the more important elements of delivering a sharp image. Given that you state you used the same lens, same tripod and same settings for each image, I’d guess that some other – at present unknown – factor contributes to both the lack of sharpness and color difference between the two example. Lighting source, position of that source, movement of the tripod mounted camera and simply poor focus by the user may be at fault. When photography became a more important part of my work (I’m a writer and now a photographer), I graduated from a Minolta camera to the Canon 5D, mistakenly believing that a “better” camera would make me a better photographer. It took me one session to recognize my folly. </p>

<p>I’m nowhere near the expert that many others are here; however, I can tell you that the differences between your image groups are unlikely attributable to either lens or camera used. My suggestion: go back to your original post, repost this thread into that one, follow all the suggestions offered by some of the best here and then wait for responses. As for shooting the two scenes: make sure your light source and everything else are completely identical, including whatever software you use to download the images from the camera to the computer and whether you are doing any unintentional editing during the download. (Bridge may be sharpening your image upon download if this is the default action – just one example).</p>

<blockquote>

<p>These photos are in response to the suggestions/ advice, taking most onboard - <em><strong>how could you miss this?</strong></em> I clearly said this is part ll - <strong><em>what is wrong with this!</em></strong></p>

</blockquote>

<p> <br>

Basically because what you have done makes for a very disjointed and also a cumbersome conversation. </p>

<p>Not all people look at the Forum and choose a particular discussion by its title – <strong><em>especially if they are already involved in a conversation EVEN IF THEY HAVE NOT YET CONTRIBUTED to it</em></strong></p>

<p>Many people – me included - use the “notify me of responses” – ‘email alert function’ on threads which interest them.</p>

<p>Speaking only for myself:<br>

I have had an email alert on the first thread with the Real Estate Sign and I registered that alert just after Scott’s response (I was just about to ask you the same question and also make a comment similar to Jeff’s – but I chose to wait for you to come back to the conversation).<br>

I did not contribute to that thread, as I was waiting for your response to it: and then I would be better able to evaluate if I could offer something worthwhile, or not . . .</p>

<p>WW<br>

</p>

<p>Husain - the problem with internet images is that they are difficult to assess unless there is a really obvious problem. In order to help you people need to isolate the issues- the key issue in the last post was the possibility of camera shake. While it is easy with the full image to see the difference between shake and focus it can be quite difficult on small internet photos. Thus the first question is</p>

<p>Are these shots taken using a tripod with the self timer or a remote?</p>

Yes, Philip, as the text in the photos confirms and this was taking on board what was suggested in the previous thread! Source of lighting i.e. flash also remained in the same position for the shots.

Irene, yes these takes are the results of what has been previously suggested.

It is unfortunate that in criticising why I have started part ll of the thread, less attention has been paid to what I have said or the writing in the photos!

Hussein perhaps if you read my post you could confirm what I asked. The images show what appears to be slight camera

movement. Just because you use a tripod does not mean you eliminate camera shake - hence I asked about how you

released the shutter and should have asked if you used MLU. On a second note I also find these images rather difficult to

accurately assess - especially on the Internet. Using a good high contrast image (newspaper, book etc...) is much easier

to see. In addition a slot of an ruler or similar object that is angles but almost parallel to the camera lens with a know

focus point will allow people to see and front or back focus issues. As an aside being rude to people and complaining that

they are not being helpful is probably not the best strategy if you want their assistance.

Philip, "rude to people", please don't misread me.

 

In any case, are you judging the photo contents or the ethics? Still I have no indication whether the focus on 7D is about right given all the inadequacies in my photographic skills pointed out so far!<div></div>

Husain I think what some people are saying is that it is hard to determine why the images are soft. You really need to try

a process of elimination. For this you should start with a high contrast test chart (or newspaper page) and fasten it to a

wall. Place the camera a distance away on a tripod, turn off IS, lock the mirror up and release the shutter with a remote

or the self timer. This eliminates all the other variables as there is no chance of camera shake in this situation. Then I

would suggest you do the same thing (still using a remote release) but focus manually using live view zoomed into 10x.

Compare the images and if the live view one is sharper then you have an AF issue. It may just simply need micro

adjustment. This is a good approach to micro adjustment but I would make sure that you Need to do it by doing the test I

suggested. http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/cameras/1ds3_af_micoadjustment.html

 

I would also suggest that you do the test without flash as it is another variable that is not necessary. From your crops

there is definitely a softness in many of the images but I personally cannot tell if it is camera movement, post processing

or slightly front or back focus. On the first road sign image it definitely looked like camera movement but on the later

images it is hard to tell - the bear looked like the focus was slightly off but with the low contracts target and a fairly flat

plane of focus it was hard to tell.

Thanks for the positive suggestions, Philip!