pavelkupcik Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 I have Hasselblad 2003FCW and would like to use it with self timer. Does anyone know if the camera has such feature or how to accomplish it? Reading on the subject it seems that CF lenses have the feature built in, but I only have FE lenses. 200 series cameras also have self timer, just can't figure it out for 2003FCW. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_hutcherson Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 Failing all else, you can always use one of the little buzzers that screw into the PC socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pavelkupcik Posted March 8, 2020 Author Share Posted March 8, 2020 Failing all else, you can always use one of the little buzzers that screw into the PC socket. I'm not familiar with this. Can you elaborate? Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_hutcherson Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 I can photograph one later, but basically there was a once-popular item that consisted of a 10-second mechanical timer that, at the end, would trigger a long pin out of it. The pin was in a sheath with a compur cable release thread on the end of it. You'd screw them into the cable release socket on the camera(which looks like it's the shutter button on your 2003, just like on the 500-series Hasselblads), wind it up, and then trip a lever on the side. When the time ran down, it would trip the shutter just like a cable release. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pavelkupcik Posted March 8, 2020 Author Share Posted March 8, 2020 I can photograph one later, but basically there was a once-popular item that consisted of a 10-second mechanical timer that, at the end, would trigger a long pin out of it. The pin was in a sheath with a compur cable release thread on the end of it. You'd screw them into the cable release socket on the camera(which looks like it's the shutter button on your 2003, just like on the 500-series Hasselblads), wind it up, and then trip a lever on the side. When the time ran down, it would trip the shutter just like a cable release. Interesting, I'll look into it. I would have thought that a mechanical timer (probably spring loaded) would not be able to generate enough pressure to push the long pin, but that was just my guess, need to read up on it. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_hutcherson Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 I'll test one on my 500C, but I've never had an issue with them in other applications. I've never needed to try on the 500C since my chrome C lenses have built in self timers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orsetto Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 (edited) You can use any vintage external mechanical self-timer that fits the camera shutter release and clears the lens barrel. Hasselblad once sold a right-angle cable release connector that made this easier, as it moved the self-timer (or cable release thumbscrew) away from the lens barrel: you may need one of these as well as the self timer. The most popular version of timer for the 500cm type of cameras was the Autoknips, specifically the version in this photo with a narrow body style and ability to fire the camera even at slower shutter speeds. It was also sold under various other names like Hansa or "Bower For Polaroid" (as pictured). The focal plane Hasselblads like your 20003FCW are less picky about self timers because they don't have the quirky barn door mechanism of the older 500-series bodies (this requires sustained pressure on the shutter release at speeds below 1/30th sec for proper exposures). So you can use pretty much any external self timer you find, with the caution that some may have plunger wires that are too long or too short for the camera. If in doubt, stick to the style pictured: they sell for $15 - $30 from eBay or used camera shops. Be sure the self-timer you buy has the standard threaded tip as shown: some were made with larger Leica rangefinder connectors that can't be removed. Edited March 8, 2020 by orsetto 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pavelkupcik Posted March 8, 2020 Author Share Posted March 8, 2020 Had no idea these existed. I'll give it a try. I can see I will very likely need an L adaptor as the space between the shutter and the lens is very tight. On a similar topic, right now I have a regular Nikon AR-3 release cable and am having some problems with it. It seems that after about 4 successful shots, the Hasselblad gets stuck and wont fire anymore. Even if I unscrew the release cable the camera won't fire. If I remove the back, it fires, if I put it back it doesn't fire. If I remove the back, open the back and then put it all back, then it fires. This happens with two separate backs. If I don't use the release cable at all then the camera never gets stuck. What could be the problem here? Is there any specific release cable that you would recommend instead? Does it have to be of a specific length? The plunger on the Nikon cable is exactly 0.5" when pressed. Maybe Hasselblad needs something longer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orsetto Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 (edited) Hasselblad 500-series enthusiasts often recommended the Nikon AR3 as a good cable release for those bodies, so I use one on my 500cm and cx, but I haven't seen any recommendations targeted specifically at the focal plane 2000 series. Hasselblads can be inexplicably temperamental sometimes: possibly your 2003FCW just doesn't "like" that particular AR3. Try another generic cable release (or two) and see if it works without issue: if yes, problem solved, if no, your 2003FCW may have some weird incompatibility with cable release triggering (in which case an external self timer may give you the same grief). The cable release pin may drive the internal release lever further back than it goes when finger pressed, aging lube may cause it to get briefly stuck in that unaccustomed position until you jiggle the back etc. BTW, I may have been in error when I said the 2000 series was less dependent on finger pressure for the slower leaf shutter lens speeds: a friend just PM'd me that the focal plane shutter can close prematurely the same as the barn doors on the 500 if released too quickly. Not an issue if using shutterless F or FE lenses, but something to be aware of with C, CF, CFi, CFe or CB. The Hansa/Bower/Autoknips self timer is known to handle this correctly. Edited March 8, 2020 by orsetto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_fowler Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 Not sure if this is pertinent , but the self timer I use has a considerable range of adjustment for the pin protrusion ( or stick out ). I know I need to adjust it's stick out depending on which camera I'm using . Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pavelkupcik Posted March 9, 2020 Author Share Posted March 9, 2020 So I ended up accidentally breaking my Nikon AR3, I kept testing with it and now am unable to put it in the unlocked mode, which means everytime I press it it stays depressed until I manually release with the little disk. Interestingly it now triggers my Hasselblad correctly without any problems, but now I have to remember to release it after every shot, otherwise the camera fires as soon as I wind it. I ordered me a Gepe release with a T-Lock instead of the disk to see if that works better. Regarding the timer, I ordered me this Kalimar and original Hasselblad L-Connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_fowler Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 ^ Interesting , that's the same unit I have and remarked on previously :) , Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pavelkupcik Posted March 17, 2020 Author Share Posted March 17, 2020 Peter, I received my Kalimar self timer, but can't figure out how make the pin protrude further out. Can you share how you do it? Right now it's too short and doesn't trigger my camera. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pavelkupcik Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 (edited) Quick update, so I figured out how to control the pin length, but still can't get the shutter to fire. I tried both direct attachment to the shutter button as well as attachment through Hasselblad L adapter. If the pin is too short it doesn't fire. If it's longer the timer doesn't seem to have enough strength to actually trigger the shutter as the winder on the timer stops before it reaches the end - likely at the point when the pin pushes against the shutter. If i then give the timer little help with my hand to keep the timing wheel turning it triggers the shutter. Any recommendations what to do here. The timer seems in excellent condition and working when not connected to the camera. Edited March 18, 2020 by pavelkupcik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orsetto Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Long shot, but try pre-firing the mirror with the switch under the film crank bump. This pops the mirror up, stops the lens down and closes the lens shutter, reducing the load on the shutter button mechanism (since all thats left for it to do is release the leaf shutter to open/close). This might allow the self timer gizmo to more easily trigger the exposure. EDIT: sorry, forgot you had a focal plane Hasselblad: the mirror lockup works a bit differently on those, but might still ease the burden on the self timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pavelkupcik Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 (edited) Great idea orsetto. That did it, it's firing now without a problem. You can also feel the lesser pressure when using a finger to fire the shutter, it's much lighter with the mirror locked up. Edited March 18, 2020 by pavelkupcik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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