Is there a Mount for a Goerz lens to Canon

Discussion in 'Large Format' started by marshall_douglis, Nov 29, 2012.

  1. I have a 7D, and wanted to get some cool video shots with an old Goerz lens. I was wondering if a mount was possible, or available somewhere. Total sharpness is not necessary for the style that I like...
     
  2. If it is a C mount movie lens there is probably an adapter. If it is a large format lens you will probably have to put it on a macro bellows and cobble together a body cap adapter to mount the lens on so it will fit the bellows.
     
  3. Is this an old large format lens in a barrel mount? There wouldnt be a pre made mount. You would need to cobble something together, but the
    distance of the lens to the lens board is probably going to be Many inches, depending on length of the lens. If it is in a shutter, you might have
    an easier time mounting it to some sort of cone.
     
  4. Marshall,
    I have "cobbled" together mounts for both the Nikon M105/3.5 and M200/8 large format lenses, to mount on a Nikon 35mm camera.
    I am not familiar with what Canon may have in the way of a lens mount bayonet to male thread adapter (to reverse mount a 35mm lens for close-up photography).
    Nikon have such an adapter, the BR-2/BR2A. To this is added a 52mm FF reversing ring, a 52-72mm step-up ring and a drilled out (35mm diameter hole for the lenses I have) in a 72mm male metal screw-in lens cap. The M105/3.5 lens is mounted in the screw-in lens cap. The BR-2 is attached to a bellows (Nikon PB-3) which is the attached to the camera.
    Other additional extension tubes are necessary for the M200/8 to achieve infinity focus. (BR-2, 52 mm extension tube 25mm long, 52-55 step-down ring, 55mm FF reversing ring, 55-72 step-up ring, 72mm MM reversing ring, 72mm female thread metal lens cap.The lens is mounted same as above. PN-11 and PK-13 extension tubes assist the bellows to achieve infinity focus.
    To use the shutter-in-lens requires the camera shutter to be either locked in the up position by using either the B or T setting so as to keep the camera shutter open whilst using the lens shutter. You will most probably need at least 2 cable releases and a viewfinder from the 35 mm rangefinder camera era depending on your lens.
    Reversing rings (both FF and MM), step-up/step-down rings and screw-in metal lens caps (F and M) can be found at www.cameragear.com in the various sub pages of this website.
    Good luck with what you are trying to achieve.
     
  5. Marshall, Goerz made many models of lenses, each in multiple focal lengths, none mounted up to fit any 35 mm camera.
    What do you have? If it is threaded at the rear, what are the threads? Diameter and threads/inch or /mm, please.
     
  6. I'm having an older lens (from the 1870s) adpated to Nikon F-mount by SK Grimes. The projected cost is $250.
    Kent in SD
     
  7. I'm having an older lens (from the 1870s) adpated to Nikon F-mount by SK Grimes. The projected cost is $250.
    Kent in SD
     
  8. I'm having an older lens (from the 1870s) adpated to Nikon F-mount by SK Grimes. The projected cost is $250.
    Kent in SD
     
  9. Kent, what do they propose to do?
    I ask because if the price is for a non-focusing adapter that will accept the lens and one end and plug into a Nikon at the other there may be less expensive ways to do the job. Namely, an adapter threaded to go into a T-mount (M42x0.75 at the rear, IIRC, but check) and a simple T or T-2 to Nikon adapter (bought off the shelf, not from SKGrimes) would be much less expensive.
    It they proposed a non-focusing adapter, threaded to accept the lens at the front and with a male T mount at the rear, the lens must be pretty large. This because they price adapters by size. I've never paid that much for one.
    If so you may encounter the problem I had when they made an adapter (to my specifications, the problems that ensued were my fault, not theirs) to hold my 900/10 Apo Saphir in front of a #1 shutter. When the adapter came, I found that the shutter's maximum opening was smaller than the lens' exit pupil for all apertures larger than f/32. Practical implication? I could have f/10 or f/32 and smaller apertures, nothing between f/10 and f/32. Go look at your lens and see whether your situation is similar to mine. The exit pupil wide open has to be smaller than the Nikon lens throat's ID less 2x the adapter's wall thickness.
    If your lens is long enough to make infinity on a view camera with a Nikon hung behind it, that's probably the best way to do it. If your lens is short, you may well not have the problem I described above. Check. Fixing problems after metal has been cut is much more expensive than getting the design right in the first place. Been there, done that, don't recommend it.
     

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