Is the landscape bar really that much higher?

Discussion in 'Casual Photo Conversations' started by conrad_hoffman, Jun 11, 2020.

  1. "but I do get the sense you know from bull." Sam.

    Unlike yourself, in a interesting discussion, I do not feel the need to personal insult.

    Big boys, in long trousers, do not that. Little boys, in short trousers do all that.
     
  2. I respect that you actually take photos...a rare event on PN.

    Okay, you are upside down, and all confused.

    Get it.
     
  3. Bottom, line is really simple.

    Does the photo work.

    Sam/Fred two love you in this place.

    Me and the bloke on the cross .So it is told.
     
  4. I think, technique should follow the purpose, not the other way round. That said, I have found focus stacking to be useful in macro photography, rather than landscapes. For macros, even f11 is not enough in many cases, especially if the subject has a lot of depth in the direction of the lens. Moreover, stopping down will necessitate unpractically long exposures most of the time, unless used with a flash, which of course gets rid of the natural lighting. Focus stacking works well in these cases and allows one to display the interesting textures etc. in a more natural way.
     
    Leslie Reid likes this.
  5. I'm too lazy to research this myself, does any camera offer hand-held focus stacking?
     
  6. I use focus-stacking a lot as a tool to better obtain the image that I’m aiming for. For photomicrography, it’s essential in order to provide any depth of field at all at 1000x. When I use it for macro, about half the time it's to increase depth of field, and about half the time to reduce distractions in the background by ensuring that the background is completely out of focus. With landscapes, the two situations I use it in are also split about 50-50; either I need a greater depth of field under poor lighting conditions (e.g., reflection of 240,000-mi-distant moon in a 2-ft-distant tidepool before dawn), or I need better control of which portions of the scene are blurred. It’s all about helping to guide the viewer’s attention to the aspects of the scene that I think are important. If you’re equating focus-stacking with having the whole frame in focus, you might want to experiment with the method a bit to explore its broader potential as a tool for artistic expression.
    I don’t think in-camera focus-stacking would be very useful, since a lot of post-processing effort goes into editing each image's mask to over-rule the software’s assumptions about what’s where.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2020
    Sanford likes this.
  7. Yes, focus stacking is a game changer for macro (I do a fair amount), and I never thought of that tide pool example but it does fall under the landscape category. It could make perfect sense there.

    Not that long ago I got a Z6 and was amazed at the image quality I could get if I did everything right. Lack of DOF certainly shows up if you pixel peep. I couldn't afford a Z7 or a D850 and I can imagine how difficult it is to take full advantage of those sensors. Thus my question as to whether we need new thinking on circle of confusion and DOF calculations.
     
  8. The Nikon D850 has a built-in focus stacking, done by making minute focusing adjustments in the lens. It's only done in live-view mode, which makes holding the camera and composing somewhat awkward without a tripod. Camera shake at any reasonable shutter speed will detract greatly from the resolution. Using the 1/F rule, the equivalent resolution is roughly 6 MP, but much less at macro distance.
     
    Sanford likes this.
  9. Z6/7 also have built-in stacking but I've never used it because I don't have an auto-focus macro lens and everything I do is pretty close.
     
  10. At macro range, there is much less change in image size using a focusing rack or worm than by focusing the lens (focus breathing).
     
  11. Check this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzVD95-9YOU. His conclusion is that 'for subjects larger than a raisin', rotating the lens helicoid is on balance better than using a focusing rack. There is a technical explanation somewhere in the second half, if I recall. (It's been quite a while since I watched it.) For very high levels of magnification, the it's a different story.

    I have done a lot of stacked macro work. I own a high-quality rack but only use it to make fine adjustments to the position of the camera front-to-back relative to the subject for the first shot in the stack, in combination with a geared head to make rotational adjustments.
     
  12. I've tried both methods and generally prefer focusing the lens. I seemed to have more trouble with the post processing using a rack.
     

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