Is cleaning a camera mirror a risky undertaking?

Cleaning the mirror of a reflex camera is a very risky proposition. The mirror is on the front surface, easily scratched or damaged. That said, the condition of the mirror has little effect on viewing, other than reduced contrast, because it is way out of focus. It has absolutely no effect on the final image, since it is out of the way at the time of exposure. I would use nothing more aggressive than a brush designed for cleaning lenses, or ultra fine brushes for cleaning sensors.

The only dust you see in the viewfinder is on or near the ground glass of the screen, or the bottom surface of the prism, with no effect on the final image. The screen can be removed on most cameras and (carefully) cleaned. Some have layers, and must not be exposed to liquids. The lower part of the prism is exposed for cleaning at the same time. In an SLR, this surface may have the various graphics for focus indicators. In the Nikon F5, these were in the focus screen itself.

Spots on film are usually due to processing. Poorly dissolved chemicals or dust from dried spills are typically at fault.

The only dust which affects the image is on the sensor (or film) itself. It's easy to clean the sensor with the proper tools and due diligence. You can see dust most clearly if you stop down the lens completely and shoot a plain surface (e.g., clear or hazy sky). The shutter speed and state of focus has no effect on this test, which is very sensitive.

Cleaning the mirror of a reflex camera is a very risky proposition. The mirror is on the front surface, easily scratched or damaged. That said, the condition of the mirror has little effect on viewing, other than reduced contrast, because it is way out of focus. It has absolutely no effect on the final image, since it is out of the way at the time of exposure. I would use nothing more aggressive than a brush designed for cleaning lenses, or ultra fine brushes for cleaning sensors.

 

The only dust you see in the viewfinder is on or near the ground glass of the screen, or the bottom surface of the prism, with no effect on the final image. The screen can be removed on most cameras and (carefully) cleaned. Some have layers, and must not be exposed to liquids. The lower part of the prism is exposed for cleaning at the same time. In an SLR, this surface may have the various graphics for focus indicators. In the Nikon F5, these were in the focus screen itself.

 

Spots on film are usually due to processing. Poorly dissolved chemicals or dust from dried spills are typically at fault.

 

The only dust which affects the image is on the sensor (or film) itself. It's easy to clean the sensor with the proper tools and due diligence. You can see dust most clearly if you stop down the lens completely and shoot a plain surface (e.g., clear or hazy sky). The shutter speed and state of focus has no effect on this test, which is very sensitive.

"Recently, I have noticed several clearly visible spots on my camera mirror. I can also see them on some of my photos."

- Not possible for the spots to appear on the photos unless you have a Canon Pellix or one of the very few other cameras using a non-moving pellicle mirror.

To the best of my knowledge, Nikon have never made such a camera. So which Nikon model are we talking about?

FWIW, cleaning a pellicle mirror is even more risky than cleaning an opaque front-silvered mirror.

"To the best of my knowledge, Nikon have never made such a camera.

Nikon has not produced a DSLT , but they did produce a SLT ( just one model) : the high-speed Nikon F2H which was introduced in 1976 ....

Still it is best to Never touch the mirror with anything, all you can do is use a blower gently if you really need to clean it up, touching it with even the softest brush will possibly damage the surface ..

Nikon has not produced a DSLT , but they did produce a SLT ( just one model) : the high-speed Nikon F2H which was introduced in 1976 ....

 

Still it is best to Never touch the mirror with anything, all you can do is use a blower gently if you really need to clean it up, touching it with even the softest brush will possibly damage the surface ..

They have the F3H too which was made in 1998 after the F5 was introduced.

They have the F3H too which was made in 1998 after the F5 was introduced.

Yup, that one too, forgot about that one..:confused: :)

- Not possible for the spots to appear on the photos unless you have a Canon Pellix or one of the very few other cameras using a non-moving pellicle mirror.

Yep-this what happens when you clean a pellicle mirror(granted I have no idea when or how many times this one was cleaned)

This camera is more or less unusable with the current mirror, as it degrades the image quality too dramatically and also the damage makes the already dim viewfinder even more dim.

With that said, I have cleaned normal SLR mirrors, but I won't share my techniques here. It can be done safely with an abundance of caution and with the proper materials, but I don't suggest it in general. Usually, my motivation for cleaning a mirror is to remove foam residue at the front edge of it, something that should not be an issue in a fairly new camera.

A breath of hot air, a Q-tip, and a blower brush always took care of it for me. With film, you are essentially getting a new "sensor" for every photo.

With film you are likely to get dust after the film is processed than before.

The mirror in the photo is fugly!

Reflex mirrors are first surface and can be cleaned with care. It's the same procedure for astronomical mirrors.

Using surgical cotton (not a q-tip), Use latex gloves to handle the cotton. Make a small ball of cotton (~1/4") and hold it with tweezers.

Make a very diluted solution of water and dish washing soap, luke warm. With the cotton ball wet glide it along the mirrors surface with very little friction covering the entire area. Go over it again with a ball dipped in water (distilled is even better) until the surface is clean. Most dirt should be removed, there is nothing that can be done for a damaged coating. Using a can of clean air blow the mirror dry. Keep can upright.

This is the procedure I used when I worked for Olympus camera.

For mirrors like the one in the photo, replace it.

For mirrors like the one in the photo, replace it.

Point me to a replacement and I'll do it :)

As it is, the camera is a shelf queen.

I've been told that back in the day, Canon actually replaced these mirrors rather than attempting to clean them.

Granted, a pellicle mirror is a whole different animal as the silvering is a lot thinner to begin with than on a normal reflex mirror and the mirror is extremely thin. I think the one in the Pellix is a mylar film.

I've only ever cleaned a mirror once. It was on an FM2N a student of mine had left a finger print on...

There was a paint-on material, like a nail polish, in a small bottle with a brush. You covered the entire mirror, let it get tack dry and peeled it off...taking all the crap with it. Can't for the life of me remember the name. It was designed for large CCDs. etc.

Worked a treat, i still have half a bottle left.

A breath of hot air, a Q-tip, and a blower brush always took care of it for me. With film, you are essentially getting a new "sensor" for every photo.

It is not about the sensor that needs cleaning but about the mirror in front of it. so no relation to sensor or film in this question ..

I've only ever cleaned a mirror once. It was on an FM2N a student of mine had left a finger print on...

 

There was a paint-on material, like a nail polish, in a small bottle with a brush. You covered the entire mirror, let it get tack dry and peeled it off...taking all the crap with it. Can't for the life of me remember the name. It was designed for large CCDs. etc.

 

Worked a treat, i still have half a bottle left.

That stuff is for sensors, not for mirrors , like you indicate yourself by saying "designed for CCD's" ..

I'd completely forgotten about the F2H, and didn't even know there was an F3H - Thanks!

Err, if the F3H is fitted with a high-eyepoint finder; does it become an F3HHP, or an F3HPH?

Either way I shan't be scouring auctions or the internet looking to add to my redundant collection of film Nikons.

Err, if the F3H is fitted with a high-eyepoint finder; does it become an F3HHP, or an F3HPH?

Good one Joe :D (ow this grin is really sick... :))

BTW :

Found the small bottle. Called Opti-Clean. For CCDs, CMOS, Lenses and all optics....inc MIRRORS.

This is the same stuff rebadged.....

Photonic Cleaning Technologies - Atomically Clean Optics and Mirrors

C.P.M.... note I used the addition of etc after mentioning CCDs......:)

(NB Not for cleaning plastics)

For UK users...

First Contact™ Polymer Optics Cleaner - opticlean

Good one Joe :D (ow this grin is really sick... :))

 

BTW :

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No thanks! I hate Pellix because it robs too much light for the viewfinder and light is so precious because when I am shooting film it's ISO100 only. 13fps is no longer all that cool because it would run out of film fast. Much rather buy the D5 or the Sony A9 with 20fps. I still use film but high speed isn't for film.

No thanks! I hate Pellix because it robs too much light for the viewfinder and light is so precious because when I am shooting film it's ISO100 only. 13fps is no longer all that cool because it would run out of film fast. Much rather buy the D5 or the Sony A9 with 20fps. I still use film but high speed isn't for film.

A significant number of Canon Pellixes that I see for sale are mated to the FL 55 or 58mm f/1.2. That's the primary lens I use on mine on the rare occasion that I do use it, and I suspect that it was the typical lens kitted to the camera.

The mirror robs enough light both from the film and the viewfinder that you really need a fast lens for it to be usable-more so in the viewfinder than on the lens.