Is canon 5D Mark II suitable for low light photography

<p>I am planning to go for canon 5D mark II. Would it be a better choice to rely on.. The key area I am focusing on is to make photographs for weddings and going thru many forums and reviews by users I find 5D mark II has slow AF in low light... Pl suggest me with your comments. Thanx</p>

<p>If you learn how to auto focus properly even an old 10D is quick in low light.</p>

<p>* Move AF activation off the shutter release (a custom function).</p>

<p>* Use the center AF point.</p>

<p>* Place the center point over an area of contrast and activate AF. Once locked, recompose and shoot.</p>

<p>** Shooting fast primes helps.</p>

<p>This is absolutely faster than manually selecting a point, and absolutely more sure than letting the camera choose points. Whenever I read complaints about AF in low light I just laugh. Used properly I haven't had a slow AF lock or AF misfocus in low light with any of the xxD series going all the way back to the 10D, which has a very old AF module by today's standards. Even with f/4 lenses. Used properly any AF module on any modern camera is quite good in low light.</p>

<p>It has a hard time in dim lighting on low-contrast targets when using the outer AF points. I find ordinary indoor lighting perfectly adequate for the center AF point on most subjects. I use the AF assist of the ST2E remote flash when shooting in darkness or near darkness to illuminate the subject with red target lines. Then it locks on instantly.</p>

<p>Image quality is amazingly good, even at ISO 3200 and, in a pinch, ISO 6400.</p>

 

<p>YES.</p>

<p>One again it all depends on h elens you put in front of the camera.<br>

I shoot very often @ ISO 3200, but that's @ F1,2 to F2. It sounds different if you go high ISO to compensate for a F5.6 lens.</p>

<p>Check this link for images taken @ ISO 3200 and also HD video @ F2,8<br>

http://nomadphotography.com.au/blog/2009/07/miss-top-model-haley-on-nomad-tv/</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I wanted to add that the same basic technique used on an old 35mm A2E also results in fast AF even in very low light.</p>

<p>Yes if you know how to get the best from AF. I suspect fast lenses help but as all the one I use regularly are F2.8 or faster I have very little experience of slow lenses.</p>

<p>Daniel, can you explain the significance of moving AF activation off the shutter release?</p>

<p>It separates the AF from the metering if you are shooting in Av for example.</p>

<p>Cheers, Bob</p>

<p>Elliot - in addition to Bob's comment, to me it's easier to activate off the rear button. You don't have to try and hold down the shutter half way while recomposing. If you happen to be shooting with settings that yield good DoF, you also don't have to keep focusing if your subject distance has not changed. (I mention the DoF because it can be razor thin with, say, an f/1.2 lens, so thin that even slight body movement forward or backward on your part could require a refocus.)<br>

The most frustrating thing is to have the AF points land on low contrast areas, and have a camera guessing with each shot. Nearly as annoying is having to focus/recompose with every frame if the subject distance has not changed.</p>

<p>I've used Daniel's old skool "lock AF on points of contrast" since 1990 and have never failed to achieve AF. Before that I did it manually with the prism spilt on my FM series cameras. And modern cameras like the 5DII are way better than my old EOS 10S, 5 and Elans. So with a little technique and common sense nailing AF in hand holdable light is as easy as falling off a friggen log.</p>

<p>Personally I don't like CF 4 and using the * button or AF-on button instead of the shutter. I prefer using the * to lock exposure as I often metering off objects other than my subject.</p>

<p>But back to the 5DII. It has the best low light AF and high ISO of any camera I've owned these past 19 years, and I've owned many. No problem shooting outside at night, in dim churches, bars and casinos, etc. Incidentally, most wedding shooters use fill flash so the AF assist of a Speedlite will even let your focus in total darkness on a white wall if you need to...</p>

I think Jeff Ascough gave some insights on this (he uses 5D2s) here: http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00Tz2P

<p>I too use the central focus point only at times...but I would warn that using the method of 'focus and recompose' can lead to some unusual results if your camera is set to use evaluative metering.<br>

I still use this method of focusing, but I'm a lot more careful about when I do use it.<br>

I too highly recommend moving the AF function away from the shutter release...</p>

<p>I can't add too much, but the difference between a f4 and f2.8 for AF is huge to me. From what I've read, the AF is always done at the largest aperture available, regardless of what you are using for exposure. I got the Mk II for low light event photography and it really made a big difference in the results.</p>

<p>To me that question is humorous. In my opinion, the 5D II is the BEST Canon low light camera by far.</p>

<p>If it isn't good for low light, no Canon camera is.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>To me that question is humorous. In my opinion, the 5D II is the BEST Canon low light camera by far. If it isn't good for low light, no Canon camera is.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I have to agree with this statement. Best low light camera I have ever used. Not only low light focusing, but low light shooting in general with such a high low noise ISO.<br>

Plus the BEST thing Canon added for low light focusing is manual focusing using Live View. Even with the best of eyes, in low light you can't visaullly confirm a good focus of anything over a couple feet away with any camera. However, with Live View you can zoom in 10 to 100 % and be able to get razor sharp manual focusing. My night photos have seen a huge jump since using this technique.</p>

<p>I second Ed, I laughed when I first read this. I don't know what else you can ask for when it comes to low light performance. If this camera is not suitable what is?</p>

<p>Back to Elliots statement of "Daniel, can you explain the significance of moving AF activation off the shutter release?"</p>

<p>I'm with Elliot, moving that function will do absolutley nothing to improve AF performance. It can improve comfort if its your preference. But the OP's question was about AF performance in Low Light and moving the focus button to rear focus will do ABSOLUTLEY nothing to improve this. Its exactley the same. Use a speedlight or ST2E and focus is near instant. Other than that, fast lenses help the best allowing more light to reach the AF sensor to speed in AF confirmation/accuracy.</p>

<p>To Ed Rogers/ Minute Photos's statement</p>

<blockquote>

<p> To me that question is humorous. In my opinion, the 5D II is the BEST Canon low light camera by far. If it isn't good for low light, no Canon camera is.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Absolutely NOT. Its is nowhere near the speed and accuracy of Canons 1 Series cameras in low light. I know cause I own and use a 1D3 everyday.<br>

Its is very very good in ISO performance, but it even still isnt beter than the 1D3 in RAW Non NR files. Side by side at 3200 6400 without any NR in raw files, the 1D3 is slightly cleaner. The 5D2 applies heavy NR by default. That said, the files hold up to the NR very well and produces very nice images at these ISO levels, and is the greatest thing at "that" price level. But to say its the best Canon can offer is laughable and easily states you havent used a 1 Series(Mark III's). The AF system in the 5D2 is a joke on the level the camera sits at. The 40D/50D has a better AF system. Canon better do something quick, cause Nikon is offering just about everything they have either at Pro level AF or near. At least the 40D/50D has cross types at all 9 points, the 5D2 only has one. The 40/50D has a diagonal cross type at center which further improves that over the 5D2. Its very accurate, I know cause the 40D is my back up camera.</p>

<p>I'm not trying to say the 5D2 is a bad camera. Just that it is an over statement to say its the best in low light, cause its NOT....especially in AF. That AF system is prehistoric and rediculous that Canon would put that in after waiting as long as everyone did for an udated 5D. Yes some do very well with it. But its way behind and at $2600 for a body, its asking to much. Resolution isnt everrything(unless you make 20x30 prints for a living). </p>

<p>Sorry David, I disagree. The 1DIII does not beat the 5DII in ISO performance, and the 1DsIII struggles to keep up. NR does not enter into it. I only shoot RAW.</p>

<p>The original 5D almost meets the 1DIII in ISO performance. The 5DII creams it.</p>

<p>AF yes, but anyone shooting in the dark should be manually focusing anyway. Although, I shot last weekend in a bar with the exposure at ISO 3200, f/1.2, 1/60th and AF worked fine. That's pretty dark. Most people are using flash way before it gets that dark, and AF is not an issue then.</p>

<p>By the way, I have used the 1 series, and for low light work I'd take the 5DII any day. Those of you that rely on AF can keep your toys, but the 5DII is as Canon says the best for high ISO performance.</p>

<p><em>I'm with Elliot, moving that function will do absolutley nothing to improve AF performance. It can improve comfort if its your preference. But the OP's question was about AF performance in Low Light and moving the focus button to rear focus will do ABSOLUTLEY nothing to improve this. Its exactley the same.</em></p>

<p>You missed the whole point, which was that how the photographer uses AF makes all the difference in the world. Leaving AF on the shutter release means that every time you fire a shot, the camera will attempt to refocus. In low light with the point over a low contrast target this means every shot will leave the lens hunting and the photographer cursing "low light AF performance."</p>

<p>Get AF off the shutter release and use the rear button. Put the AF point over an area of contrast. You'll get a fast focus lock. Now you can fire at will without the lens hunting. Just be sure to refocus if subject distance changes.</p>

<p>You can put the point over contrast and hold the shutter half way down, but doing that repeatedly gets pretty old and annoying.</p>

<p>Ed, you are wrong. Ther 1D3 was considerably better than the old 5D. The 1DsIII is a different story. I refered to it only in AF performance.<br>

I have used both the 5D2 and my 1D3 side by side and you are wrong and Canon is telling people what they want to hear. "As we have it set up, the files are very clean." But view that file in real raw without any NR and its not the case. Its not bad, but the 1D3 is marginally better. About 1/2 stop better.</p>

<p>Yes, the ISO performance appears to be better from the 5D2 when opening the RAW file....only at first. What people do not understand is, the 5D2 applies NR to RAW files by default and when opened in programs like DPP for instance, it appears cleaner, until you see where DPP applied the camera set NR to the file as it was displayed. When I turned that feature off, and viewed at 100% I quickly saw where the 5D2 was indeed noisier than the 1D3.</p>

<p>It does look good when viewed as a picture at normal viewing display and NR applied. I know what I saw in the file and that was more noise. I was amazed until I saw the real file. Its not so hard to believe. The 5D2 pixel density is higher. At 6.4 vs 7.2(1D3) thats a good bit tigher pixel density. Given those numbers and relativley same sensor tech, the numbers tell the story. Which is why they should quit pumping in the pixels.</p>

<p>LOL -- These questions always turn into a 1 series vs non-pro body arguments<br>

I have no problem using a 5D mark I in low light. Focusing is fine with the center point. <br /> <br /> You ever notice lens have a MF function. Yeah, good old reliable manual focus. <br /> Makes low light focusing easy on any camera body.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>You said it Paul. BTW, what happens in wedding formals that requires lightning quick focusing anyway? Its been a long time since I shot a wedding but I just cannot recall one time when fast focusing was critical during formals. Now, during the reception? That's another ball of wax.</p>

<p>Yes Paul, I use it from time to time. Sometimes its a must. But the OP was asking about lowlight "AF" performance, not "MF" performance. Sometimes we dont have time to MF and this is why we buy expensive equipment.</p>

<p>My response was to correct someone from being misinformed about a camera. The 5D2 is astounding at high ISO given the MP vs sensor size. But...</p>

<p>I am uploading 2 files that were taken on the same day, same place, same lens and same unknowing subject.</p>

<p>I opened the files in DPP(raw files) and the 5D2 appeared much cleaner, then I noticed the NR sliders in default position as per camera default, turned that off. Now both files were viewed at 100%, default everything except NR was off and a 100% crop was taken at the exact same pixel demensions so no disadvantages there. See for yourself. The 5D2 is slightly noisier than the 1D3. Not much, as I said, maybe a 1/2 stop, but was trying to correct the statement that the 5D2 "creams" it. Just not the case. Does well, but not as well as alot of people think.</p>

<p>Yes Paul, I use it from time to time. Sometimes its a must. But the OP was asking about lowlight "AF" performance, not "MF" performance. Sometimes we dont have time to MF and this is why we buy expensive equipment.</p>

<p>My response was to correct someone from being misinformed about a camera. The 5D2 is astounding at high ISO given the MP vs sensor size. But...</p>

<p>I am uploading 2 files that were taken on the same day, same place, same lens and same unknowing subject.</p>

<p>I opened the files in DPP(raw files) and the 5D2 appeared much cleaner, then I noticed the NR sliders in default position as per camera default, turned that off. Now both files were viewed at 100%, default everything except NR was off and a 100% crop was taken at the exact same pixel demensions so no disadvantages there. See for yourself. The 5D2 is slightly noisier than the 1D3. Not much, as I said, maybe a 1/2 stop, but was trying to correct the statement that the 5D2 "creams" it. Just not the case. Does well, but not as well as alot of people think.</p>

<p>Sorry, the files now.</p><div></div>