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IR film


everheul

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<p>I haven't messed with IR since school days many moons ago. Just now checked <a href="http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_search.php?resultpage=2&q=infrared&rfnp=40&"><strong>Freestyle</strong> </a> , they're showing Rollei and Efke branded IR films. Might be from the same manufacturer but we have a couple of b&w forum members who would know for sure since they have industry contacts.</p>

<p>And there's Ilford SFX 200, not true IR but can kinda sorta pass for it with the right filter and if the subject has the right colors that translate to the IR look in monochrome.</p>

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<p>The Efke IR film most closely resembles the Kodak HIE and there is also now an Efke IR film that lacks an anti-halation backing, as the Kodak did. The Rollei IR is rather similar the Ilford SFX in terms of its IR effect. I'l try and dig up some samples to show you.</p>
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<p><p>General notes...rollei is sharper but has less of the IR look - the skies don't go as black, and the leaves aren't as white. Efke isn't as sharp but it glows a bit more. </p>

<p><p><a href=" stone benches title="stone benches by kaiyen, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3486/3464280459_c45f9193a7.jpg" width="500" height="403" alt="stone benches" /></a></p>

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<p>For MF and LF you have only the choice of the Rollei IR 820-400 and the Efke IR820C.<br>

For both you need an 89B or 88A filter.</p>

<p>Here my example of the Rollei IR820-400 with a Bay I 88A (RG715nm) filter on my Yashica Mat 124G:</p>

<p><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3401/3473622200_6f8029934e.jpg" alt="" width="495" height="500" /></p>

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<p>I expect an iso rate of 1-3 with the Efke IR820C which means always a tripod. With the Rollei IR820-400 (iso 400) (and the discontinued Kodak HIE, also iso 400) you can just make the exposures without a tripod. Above Yashica Mat 124G example: 1/30S - f=4,0 under the right IR atmosphere conditions shoot at 3:00 PM.<br>

When shooting these films in a 35mm RF camera like Leica, Zeiss or Bessa you can have more spontanious shots because youy're not fixed with a tripod on slow shutter speeds.</p>

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<p>From what I've read, Efke and Rollei are the only ones with decent IR sensitivity. They are a lot slower than HIE though and aren't as IR sensitive - you could get away with at 25 filter on HIE, but for that look on the other films, you need an R72 or equivalent. </p>
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<p>I guess you have to know what you like. I like Efke IR 820; pros, shadow detail (maybe Rollei has this too?), easy loading, finer grain (compared to HIE of SFX200), easy to develop (I use HC-110h); cons, very slow speed (I use one second/ f16 in bright sun with a Hoya R72), you have to not care about foliage movement. This is Efke IR 820 in half sun half shade. <br>

<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3332/3425083394_f34d249772.jpg?v=0" alt="IMGP629611-1 by you." width="500" height="327" /></p>

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<p>The examples seem to indicate that Efke IR gives a more typical IR effect; though it is good to know that The Rollei and Efke films are available in 120 and sheet film (my favorite). Now here is a question that will save me a good deal of testing: <strong>What is the typical speed rating of these films if one were to develop in DIAFINE?</strong></p>
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<p>I don't know about Diafine, but ISO/ASA/EI is nonsense when it comes to IR (true) film. It is better to find a 'sunny 16' f-stop and shutter speed that works for you, and I shoot with a Hoya R72 filter. Efke IR 820 for me it is; 'sunny 16' at 1 second at f 16, half shade and half bright sun like my above photo is 1 second at f 11, full shade, maybe f 16 and 7-8 seconds (I'm not sure about this one because I have not had great luck in FULL shade). I develop Efke IR 820 with HC-110h at 14 minutes, normal agitation. As I live in California I never shoot in overcast (heavy or light) so for those situations you will have to get advice for someone else.</p>
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<p>Rollei Infrared is an excellent film, but unfortunately the 4x5" version has a big problem. It's coated on the same base as the rollfilm, which is far too thin for large format. It's so thin that loading the holders is a total nightmare. Loading it on a Jobo reel is another, even bigger, nightmare (of course, you may use other means of developing to counteract this one).<br /> I only managed to shoot about ten or fifteen sheets. That was all I could stand. The rest of the box went directly into the trash can. I swore never to buy that film in 4x5 again.<br /> I love it in 120, though. Not just as an infrared film, but it's also excellent as an all-around ASA 400 film. Superb tonality and very fine grain (finer than Tri-X in my experience).</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>A little more info on the Efke IR820. I am messing around with it a bit and have found some good info.</p>

<p>One great source is this fella called "Eyeofwally" over on Flicker. Here is one of his web sites with some really good info on the Efke stock. He uses Diafine for Efke IR820. I think he starts at about ASA 1.5 and of course brackets from there.</p>

<p><a href="http://theplasticlandscape.com/articles/efke_ir820.htm">http://theplasticlandscape.com/articles/efke_ir820.htm</a></p>

<p>Some really big points about it...you must use a R72(or very close) filter and not a normal red #25 filter as you could with the Kodak HEI. If you do not use a R72 the image will look pretty much a contrasty B&W. Efke emultions are soft and benifit from the addition of a hardener. Many folks don't add the hardener and are just carful when handleing the film.</p>

<p>Another note on the filter, you can make one and have very good results. Take section of color print film and expose it to light, and then develop it. Cut a few strips and figure out a way to place it in front of the lens as a filter. I have seen it done with 4x5 efke adn the IR effect was very good. Crude, but worked well for a few test prints. R72 filters can get pricey if you don't plane to use it much. Personally I have decided to buy a P filter for my Cokin set. Much much cheaper than a 77mm round screw on.</p>

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<p>Also here is the link to the flicker group for Efke IR820. Mr. Williams is the admin for the group. You should be able to ask him questions there directly. </p>

<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/efkeir820/">http://www.flickr.com/groups/efkeir820/</a> </p>

<p>Basicly, the Rollie (a fine film I am very sure) just does not have as strong of IR effect as the Efke. So it comes down to what look you like.</p>

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<p>I shoot a lot of Ilford's SFX. As Lex points out, it is not a true IR film, but it's very easy to use and process. You can daylight load, it has no focus shift to it and if you see a "normal" photo you'd like to take, just use it w/o the R72 filter and you have a "normal" photo.<br>

It's made it 35 and 120 size.</p>

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<p>SFX 200 is even harder to become the 'wood' effect. Then you can also try the Rollei Super Pan 200 who has also a sensitivity till 750nm just like the SFX 200 (Ilford) film.<br>

The difference between the Rollei IR820-400 and Efke IR820 is the speed (iso 400 versus iso 100) and the Rollei IR820-400 is going down faster above 750nm and in that way the Efke has a more extended IR sensitivity.</p>

 

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