Inherited a Konica FS-1... and some problems.

This is my first post here, so please be kind...

 

In the past, my only experience with cameras and photography was limited to

disposable one-time-use cameras and simple "point n' shoot" digitals. Up until

now, I've never really had the opportunity to use anything with manual

focus/exposure/shutter settings, although it's something I've wanted to try for

quite some time.

 

I recently inherited a Konica FS-1 with a 40mm f/1.8 Hexanon AR lens. There's

also an X-24 flash unit with it. The previous owner kept it in excellent shape;

every piece of documentation is still with it (including the registration card!)

and everything looks great. This camera hasn't been taken out of its case in

literally 15+ years.

 

I've read the instructions cover-to-cover several times, and I'd really like to

get out there and see what I can capture with this thing. Unfortunately, no

matter how hard I try, I can't get the thing to work. I'll try to be as

descriptive as I can here...

 

I put four brand-new AA batteries into the camera, and four more brand-new AA's

into the flash. I opened the back and popped in a roll of ISO 400 I had lying

around. I pulled the leader out, aligned it over the sprockets just like the

instructions said, and I closed the back. As soon as it clicks closed, I hear

the motor inside advance the film one frame, and the counter on the back moves

to "1". As I understand it, that's exactly what's supposed to happen.

 

I set all the dials, framed a nice test shot, focused it, and prepared to snap

the picture. I press the shutter button down about halfway as the instructions

tell me to, and supposedly an LED is supposed to light in the viewfinder to tell

me the correct exposure. Unfortunately, my camera just flashes the f/1.0 and

f/22 LEDs alternately. According to the instructions, this means the batteries

are low. But that can't be right - the batteries are brand new and they read

100% on my battery tester.

 

According to the instructions, the camera should still operate in a low-battery

state for several more rolls until finally running down. Also, the instructions

say that the correct exposure LED should still light up even while the

low-battery LEDs are flashing... Mine doesn't do that.

 

If I move the switch on the X-24 to either the green f/5.6 setting or the orange

f/11 setting, the low battery warning will not appear. However, the f/5.6 or

f/11 LED in the viewfinder will flash (just as it's supposed to).

 

The actual problem comes when I press the shutter button all the way down to

take the picture. Once I press down fully, the camera just dies completely. The

LEDs go out, the flash doesn't fire, and not a single mechanical sound can be

heard from the camera. Worse than that, once I try taking one picture, the

camera won't do anything on subsequent half-presses of the shutter button. No

battery warning, no exposure indications, no nothing.

 

In order to get the camera back into the state where it will light up the

viewfinder LEDs again, I either have to pull the batteries or rewind the film,

open the back cover, and reload it. (Apparently opening the back cover "resets"

things.)

 

The self-timer button/light works like it's supposed to, up until the point

where it would actually snap the picture. At that point, the camera locks up

just as if I had hit the shutter button.

 

I've looked across the internet for people with similar problems, but I couldn't

find anything. Most problems with the FS-1 involve the mirror sticking in the up

position, but mine's in the correct position. I guess my question is... a) am I

missing something completely obvious, b) is it just old and creaky, and some

sort of simple cleaning would fix it, or c) is this something I'd have to go to

a repair shop for?

 

I honestly have no idea what this camera and its accessories are worth, or how

much money people would recommend investing into it if needed. I'd be more than

happy to get it repaired if it were a "jewel in the rough" kind of thing. I just

don't know if fixing this would be akin to putting a new transmission in a $50

car. ;)

 

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Everything in your description points to a battery problem despite new batteries. I have an FT-1, which I think is somewhat similar, and this is how it behaves when the batteries go low. I think the first thing you need to do is to double-check the position of the batteries in the holder, to make sure you really got it right. Try different batteries anyway, even if you're sure they're good. Maybe you got a bum one that dies under heavy current load. Then carefully inspect the contacts, both the ones between batteries and holder, and between holder and camera. Make sure there's no corrosion. The battery case on my FT-1 is kind of balky going back on, and I wouldn't be surprised if those contacts can get damaged or pushed out of line. Make sure they're all there, and making contact. If nothing works, then I think you need to evaluate the wisdom of having it fixed. It may need a clean and lube, and just be stiff from age, or there might be a bad connection inside. But since you can get another FS-1 in well used but working condition from KEH.com for about 100 bucks, it might be hard to find a shop that will fix yours for less than it's worth.

Hi Scott,

 

The previous response you got is probably the best suggestion.

 

For some reason, the camera appears to not be getting full power. Follow the suggestions to try it with other batteries and checking that they are installed correctly, and all contacts are good. Even a little corrosion on the contacts (usually from leaky batteries left in too long) can cause problems.

 

Another possibility, be sure to only use alkaline batteries in that camera. Never use lithium, nicads or any other type (i.e., no rechargeables).

 

You might also want to try the camera without the flash installed and see if it works. Just set it on AE, select a reasonable shutter speed and see what happens with no flash mounted on top of the camera.

 

I'm just suggesting this as a possiblity. I don't know of any specific problems that the X24 can cause (the flash is pretty simple, but usually works okay... its most likely fault is a broken foot or battery cover door, not something electronic.)

 

The FS-1 was the first Konica to have a simplistic form of dedicated flash, with a couple extra contacts for some additional functions. I don't know for certain how this might mess with the camera's functions causing the symptoms you describe. It would just be worthwhile, I think, to see if the camera works with the flash removed.

 

By the way, the "dedication" of that flash just does a couple things. When set to one of the flash's auto modes (f5.6 or f11), that will automatically set the camera's shutter speed to 1/90 second flash sync speed and the chosen aperture will be flashing in the viewfinder when the flash is charged and ready to fire - f5.6 or f11 - but that's about it. The aperture ring on the lens needs to be set to "AE", not one of the manual aperture settings. If I recall correctly, it doesn't matter where the shutter is set, it will be overridden to 1/90 (might not work on "B", I'm not sure).

 

Oh, and if a non-dedicated flash is used, it will work too but the shutter is supposed to be set to 1/60 manually (and you select the correct aperture for the distance). However, many people have used the later Konica electronig models set to 1/125 with flash without any problems.

 

If it's just the battery compartment that's damaged, you might be able to pick up a replacement inexpensively. There are many non-functional FS-1 that sell cheap on eBay and elsewhere, that might be bought for its battery compartment alone. The tricky part will be getting a good, undamaged battery compartment.

 

Which brings me to another thing. The FS-1 was the first auto-loading 35mm SLR with a built-in film winder. It was Konica's first highly electronic camera, complete with an electronically controlled shutter. This was very much a break from the company's tradition of highly reliable mechanical cameras. The years have shown the FS-1 can be a little finnicky and might have "glitches". Usually failure is due to electronic problems, i.e. burnt out components or bad connections on the circuit boards. This was pretty new technology in cameras 28 years ago and there were many improvements made along the way. There are actually three "versions" of FS-1, with internal modifications only, and with the last 200,000 or so generally being the most reliable.

 

Unfortunately, there are no spare parts and it's probably not worth repairing, if it is truly an electronic problem. Yes, I agree it's possible it just needs cleaning, lubrication and adjustment (CLA in camera tech lingo) and maybe new light seals, just due to the years. Again, it's a question of whether it is worth doing, even if just these minor services are all that's needed. Get an estimate on that work and judge for yourself, if you think it's worth it. (I do know of one person having an FS-1 fully restored for sentimental reasons, but it cost a whole lot more than the camera is worth.)

 

If you can't get the FS-1 to work right, you still might have it looked at and get a quote on the work. It might just be something really simple and there are a lot of good, working FS-1 still around (including one on my shelf), in spite of problems with some of them.

 

If you do end up looking to replace the camera, the other response mentions the later FT-1 model, which replaced the FS-1 in Konica's lineup and is a somewhat more sophisticated camera, with more features and durability. By the time the FT-1 was offered, most of the electronic problems had been worked out, plus it's a bit more easily repaired.

 

Greg Weber at www.webercamera.com is one of the best Konica techs, and he bought out all the remaining FT-1 spare parts from Konica when they stopped servicing them a few years ago. These can often be picked up for around $75-125 (more from a dealer who will have had the camera serviced and offers a warranty), which is more than FS-1 because the earlier camera had that reputation for failures.

 

The 40mm Hexanon is a superb lens and I hope you get a chance to shoot some pictures with it. When it was introduced, one of the photo magazines called it the sharpest SLR lens they had ever tested. That may be a bit of an exaggeration, but many users really like it. Some report it can have slight coma/flare issues at the corners when used wide open, but is superb at all other apertures.

 

If you get to using the 40mm, you might want to look into some of the other Hexanons, too. I really like the 35/2.0 instead of the 40/1.8, but that's just because the 40mm lens always seemed too small for my hands. The 28/1.8 and 85/1.8 are legendary Hexanons, along with the 57/1.2. These three are still pretty expensive, though. Cheaper and more common lenses include the 28/3.5, a good lens, and the 135/3.2, which is excellent. The very common and very cheap 50/1.7 is also an outstanding lens. The 100/2.8 is sort of a "sleeper", very good lens but somewhat lost between some other great, short telephotos. There are others... the lenses were always the strongest part of the Konica SLR system.

 

We have a discussion group of Konica users at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/konicaslr/ if you are interested.

 

Cheers!

 

 

 

<p>My Konica FS-1 has the EXACT same problem as yours. I put in batteries (yes they are new and fully charged, yes they are put in the correct configuration in the holder, etc.), the red light goes on and I hear it advance the film, but when I press the shutter button, 2 little red lights flash alternately between f1.0 and f22, and the shutter does not fire. After pressing it a few times, the lights go out. If I open the back cover and close it again (or if I remove the battery holder and put it on again), it 'resets' and I hear the film advance. But when I try to take a picture, it does everything all over again (it doesn't work).<br>

It must be a defect common to this camera. Sombody mentioned there were "3 runs" of this camera (they obviously got this info off that german person's FS-1 website). He claims that the "last 200,000" ones should be ok. Mine has a serial number over 500,000, so obviously this information is not entirely correct.<br>

Cosmetically the camera is in excellent condition (it doesn't look as if it has been dropped or abused).<br>

In my opinion, it is probably not worth fixing (especially since it's an electrical problem). Most places would start around $100, and I don't think the camera is worth that much. It's a shame really.</p>

<p>Well, for what it's worth...I just bought an FS-1 on the Bay for $17.00, less than a month ago...and it has precisely the same problems mentioned above. It cannot be the batteries...I'm thinking that I'll send mine to Greg Weber...he has an Auto S3 and FT-1 of mine that he is doing work on currently and if he's in the shop, he answers the phone and will discuss the possible fixes and costs. He will provide a formal quote after he receives the camera and has a chance to analyze the problem. In consideration of the fact that all of the cameras mentioned above have identical problems and no apparent trauma, that points to defective design. Thing is...I love the look and feel of the FS-1 and might spring for the $150 or so to have it fixed...but I may change my mind. Maybe best to list on the Bay and disclose the problems. When I bought mine, I assumed that the owner didn't realize that the batteries were just low and I thought I'd found a bargain. NOT! Oh well, I'll try to remember to post the ongoing saga. In the meantime, if anyone reading these posts has anything additional to offer up, please do...it will be interesting to see what Greg has to say. Regards all...RJ</p>

<p>I have the exact same problem. I acquired the FS-1 from a friend whose grandfather had used it. It had battery corrosion on a few of the battery contacts and I wiki'd how to clean the corrosion and it seemed to clean it quite nicely. Yet when I tried to shoot, everything occurred EXACTLY how you describe. It stopped working altogether and I opened the back as a last option and it seemed to do the trick. However, when I pressed the shutter, it just died again. It is in great condition otherwise and would love to give this to my brother for his first photography class at Troy University, but need to know where I might be able to get the contacts replaced in time. Any suggestions?</p>

<p>I'm joinning the group of the above. Just purchashed a "mint" Konica FS-1 and have the same problems. I did change the batteries, made sure contacts were clean. Everything works except getting shutter to snap a picture.<br>

Anybody figured this out yet? or another one for the junk pile?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>The Minolta X-700 often develops a similar problem and this turns out to be a burnt out capacitor which many people have fixed. The FS-1 is a similar type of electronic shutter camera from the same era. Perhaps its a similar type of fault.</p>

<p>I bought an FS-1 back in 1981. Wanted that shutter priority and I don't recall many others having it at the time. Also just felt better in my hands. I got less than six years of use out of it before it locked up as others have described. I also read the German site yesterday and bingo, I had used the Tamron lens with adaptall mount and could relate to the problems beginning after using that lens a while. Now, I'm not so sure. It was sent back twice to be repaired and came back as "repaired" (Ha...) and "could not replicate the problem." Mine had been intermittent until it finally seemed to lock up for good. Went through all the battery things, had two battery packs and it didn't matter if the batteries were fresh, just changing the packs would sometimes do the job.<br>

I found this site for camera repair and wonder if anyone has done any business with them:<br>

http://abilenecamera.com/<br>

When I bought the camera I opted to get a 50mm/1.4 lens instead of the 40 it came with, just personal preference. And I have the Tamron zoom lens. <br>

My question is, is this camera worth fixing? Is that same shutter problem going to keep coming up? I don't mind fixing it once if it GETS FIXED and I could scrounge around for a Konica zoom lens. But I don't want to put a couple hundred into a camera that might lock up again. <br>

Does anyone know if there is a permanent fix for this problem? Since reading this blog today, I'm not so sure and it doesn't sound like the Tamron lens was the only problem.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>My FS-1 has excatly the same problem as Scott described. I have been searching for any information about the problem and found a web site that described how to repair some problems in FS-1. One of the Japanese sites describes how FS-1 could be repaired. The problem fixed was quite similar to ours although it was not exactly the same but I am wondering if our problem is being caused by the same root. According to the information there, if the internal mechanical components in FS-1 do not move properly, it will prevent a sequence of operations required for completing a shutter fire, which shuts down all electronic operations as its aftermath. The guy fixed his problem by simple maintainance. I will try that to my FS-1 and will let you know if I have a chance to do so. If this works, it should not cost you anuthing but 10 to 25 minutes of your time.</p>