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Infrared modification on used DSLR by Lifepixel


everheul

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<p>I'm interested in sending my used 20D body in for modification to being a dedicated IR camera and was wondering a few things. For my main camera I'm planning on upgrading, so I won't be too heartbroken if the 20D doesn't turn out as well as I hope.<br>

1. Has anyone here used http://www.lifepixel.com/ for their modification?<br>

2. Which filter modification did you choose (as I am debating which of their setups I am leaning towards)?<br>

3. Are you happy with the results? I'd love to see posts of the results too.<br>

<br />I tried quick sample picture of my front yard with the meter reading at iso 100 at 1/500 @ f5.6. To get a "useable pic" the exposure with an 87 filter, and focus adjusted accordingly the exposure was 30 seconds @ f5.6 with the ISO bumped up to 400! I definitely would like to be able to take IR pictures without these crazy timed exposures.</p>

<p><img src="http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l96/pps_2006/trial%20infrared%202_zpsj5lzilti.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="533" /></p>

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<p>I had a Panasonic GF1 converted to infra-red by Advanced Camera Services here in the UK. I went for the 720nm option to retain a small amount of colour. The advantage of having an electronic sensor camera converted is that you can see the 'infra-red' image on the screen before you take the photo - with an 'ordinary' digital SLR you are still seeing the image in natural colour until you view the image taken on the screen. The disadvantage of an electronic sensor is that you don't get the colour image. So it depends on how you want to work.<br>

When I enquired about getting my camera converted I was told "You will be able to use it for motor-racing". I was very surprised but the light level is indeed sufficient for this, often in daylight the exposure is shorter than for normal photography. The disadvantage I have found with action photography on all my micro four-thirds cameras is the temporary loss of live image while the photograph is captured and displayed. If I wanted to do more action-based photography then I would probably get an SLR converted. Make sure that they adjust the focus position as infra-red focusses at a different poison to normal daylight. You should also check out whether your lenses will have infra-red 'hot spots'. Check out this website for further information on this and other aspects of infra-red photography www.kolarivision.com/index.html <br>

I have had great fun with my venture into infra-red and am looking forward to doing more in the summer months. Mad dogs and Englishmen can certainly venture out into the midday sun! I was intrigued when taking photographs in a local cemetery that there seemed to be more 'light' in the shadows under the trees. The white foliage also adds a spooky feel. I also tried it for some catwalk fashion and was fascinated by many black items no longer being black, depending on the fabric used. One wedding photographer used infra-red as a Unique Selling Point for a while.<br>

My current favourite 'IR' shot is one that I took on the water bus from Venice back to the airport. We were passing Cemetery Island (don't panic - I don't have an obsession with cemeteries!) and there was some light cloud - which is emphasised by infra-red. in the attached photo I have swapped the red and blue channels - turning the red on the Red Channel down to 0% and the blue up to 100% and then turning the blue on the Blue Channel down to 0% and the red up to 100%. I hope you like it.</p><div>00dEXU-556268184.jpg.be5153e797ee6a1cfa083f2163f86fbb.jpg</div>

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<p>The Fuji X cameras can do it as well. Have used the 35mm and 14mm with IR filter on both the X-Pro1 and the X-E1 with good success. I would rather go this route than a body modified for IR. Gives me the option of IR or normal in a small and lightweight package.</p>
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