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Infrared filters for digital cameras


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I understand that the nature of a CCD and CMOS requires a low-

pass filter to be placed over the CCD to prevent ghosting. This

low-pass filter cuts out most or all of the infrared light from

reaching the CCD. You can attempt to remove the low-pass filter

if you know how to strip down your camera. But most digital

cameras should work at least with near infrared wavelengths.

 

You can simulate infrared results in Photoshop by using the

following steps below. Note though that the images that you start

with have to be color images because you will need to mix the

channels. Now start Photoshop 7...

 

 

To simulate Kodak High Speed Infrared (HIE):

 

1. Open the channel mixer (Image>Adjustments>Channel

Mixer...)

 

2. In the red output channel, adjust the sliders such that red is +

200%, green is -50% and blue is -50%. (You can play around

with the green and blue values, but they must equal -100%; i.e.

instead of -50% for both green and blue, you can set -39% for

green and -61% for blue.)

 

3. Check the "monochrome" box at the bottom left of the panel.

 

4. Click OK.

 

To simulate Kodak Ektachrome Infrared (EIR):

 

1. Open the channel mixer.

 

2. In the red output channel, adjust red to -100%, green to +

200% and blue to 0%.

 

3. In the green output channel, adjust red to 0%, green to 0%

and blue to +100%.

 

4. In the blue output channel, adjust red to +100%, green to 0%

and blue to 0%.

 

5. Click OK. Note that unlike actual Kodak EIR film (where

human skin bleaches out), using the EIR settings above will

place a blue/cyan cast on human skin.

 

For the EIR settings, play about with the contrast slider for each

of the output channels. It's possible to produce some pretty

incredible stuff. Experiment and enjoy!

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Hi Palmi,

 

To answer your specific questions, the D1X works very well for IR work, even with the "real" IR filters like the 87, 87A, and 87C. It produces great full tone images, no noise problems, but needs a tripod. It doesn't have the sensitivity for handheld "street" work.

 

Unless you like the strange "false color" looks you get, you can finish the image in PhotoSHop with the channel mixer to get good monochrome. Do not desaturate, it reduces contrast because some channels are less IR sensitive than others. (On my D100, it's the green channel that's not very IR sensitive, and causes the result to be muddy if I just desaturate. Mixing red and blue to monochrome with the channel mixer gives much better results.

 

Then, if you want to duplicate the glowing, dreamy, grainy Hodak HIE film look, do the following.

 

Use levels or curves to limit the brightness of the picture. You want the brightest highlights to be about 180 out of 255.

 

Use "edge glow" which will spread highlights and give you a nice "kodak glow" and will also brighten the highlights back up. If the highlights blow out, either reduce them some more, or use less edge glow.

 

Then apply a "film grain" filter.

 

And you're there.

 

Lots of other good info at Bjørn Rørslett's site

 

http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html

 

Ciao!

 

Joe

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