palmi Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Can anyone tell me if infared filters work with digital cameras such as Nikon D1X? Or if you can alter in PS to get similar results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sakari_m_kel_ Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 I have only tried with Canon D30 - works fine. In Photoshop, you can take the red channel and modify contrast and luminance - not really infrared but nearby. Sakari Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinteo Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 I understand that the nature of a CCD and CMOS requires a low-pass filter to be placed over the CCD to prevent ghosting. This low-pass filter cuts out most or all of the infrared light from reaching the CCD. You can attempt to remove the low-pass filter if you know how to strip down your camera. But most digital cameras should work at least with near infrared wavelengths. You can simulate infrared results in Photoshop by using the following steps below. Note though that the images that you start with have to be color images because you will need to mix the channels. Now start Photoshop 7... To simulate Kodak High Speed Infrared (HIE): 1. Open the channel mixer (Image>Adjustments>Channel Mixer...) 2. In the red output channel, adjust the sliders such that red is +200%, green is -50% and blue is -50%. (You can play around with the green and blue values, but they must equal -100%; i.e. instead of -50% for both green and blue, you can set -39% for green and -61% for blue.) 3. Check the "monochrome" box at the bottom left of the panel. 4. Click OK. To simulate Kodak Ektachrome Infrared (EIR): 1. Open the channel mixer. 2. In the red output channel, adjust red to -100%, green to +200% and blue to 0%. 3. In the green output channel, adjust red to 0%, green to 0% and blue to +100%. 4. In the blue output channel, adjust red to +100%, green to 0% and blue to 0%. 5. Click OK. Note that unlike actual Kodak EIR film (where human skin bleaches out), using the EIR settings above will place a blue/cyan cast on human skin. For the EIR settings, play about with the contrast slider for each of the output channels. It's possible to produce some pretty incredible stuff. Experiment and enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grant_. Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Nikon D100, Tiffen #87 filter<br><br><center><img src="http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze4hbvk/treescloud.jpg"></center> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sakari_m_kel_ Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 There happens to be an article written by John Paul Caponigro in Photo Techniques 1/2003. It is of B/W mostly, but contains much the same information as Kevin said above and some examples, too. Sakari Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwink3101 Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 I already asked this question and got helpful results. <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=003PZs">Click here to see the post</a><br>Good Luck!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joseph_wisniewski Posted January 22, 2003 Share Posted January 22, 2003 Hi Palmi, To answer your specific questions, the D1X works very well for IR work, even with the "real" IR filters like the 87, 87A, and 87C. It produces great full tone images, no noise problems, but needs a tripod. It doesn't have the sensitivity for handheld "street" work. Unless you like the strange "false color" looks you get, you can finish the image in PhotoSHop with the channel mixer to get good monochrome. Do not desaturate, it reduces contrast because some channels are less IR sensitive than others. (On my D100, it's the green channel that's not very IR sensitive, and causes the result to be muddy if I just desaturate. Mixing red and blue to monochrome with the channel mixer gives much better results. Then, if you want to duplicate the glowing, dreamy, grainy Hodak HIE film look, do the following. Use levels or curves to limit the brightness of the picture. You want the brightest highlights to be about 180 out of 255. Use "edge glow" which will spread highlights and give you a nice "kodak glow" and will also brighten the highlights back up. If the highlights blow out, either reduce them some more, or use less edge glow. Then apply a "film grain" filter. And you're there. Lots of other good info at Bjørn Rørslett's site http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html Ciao! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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