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Increased risk of burning sensor on mirrorless cameras?


Mark Keefer

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I have been wondering if cameras like the A7RIII are more vulnerable to being damaged by the sun since the sensors is always receiving light through the lens when the lens cap is not on the lens. I imagine that it would be and a little more thought needs to used when handling them.

 

Is the A7RIII not a wise choice to record a time lapse of the sun rise or track across the sky as the sensor is never given a break from the sun being focused on it as a sensor would be shielded except during exposure with a DSLR.

 

Also, things to consider would be having the camera without a lens cap at an angle where the sun might be pointed at a window that could view the sun for several hours a day, even if the camera was off, if the lens cap is not on the lens, would it not be possible you can a sun burn in on the sensor? The same could be of being in a concert with lasers, even if you are not shooting, just having the camera lens being hit by the beam. Should we be more mindful and realize these sensors are exposed 100% of the time the lens cap is off.

 

Think about walking around on a bright sunny day with a wide angle lens, of course you might have the lens cap off so you can capture spontaneous photo opportunities as they arise or you are just there to catch a sunset. The camera is hanging from the strap around your neck, the lens cap off as you stand there admiring a magnificent sunset. The camera isn't squinting, the sensor is just soaking up the rays just like you were there with a magnifying glass burning the sensor.

Edited by Mark Keefer
Cheers, Mark
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Yes, on a pro videographers' forum I read how they were complaining about burning the sensors of their cameras mostly SLR Canons with a laser (at a disco). It may be both with DSLR in video mode and mirrorless camera, but our eyes are more valuable and vulnerable.

But: I will all the same switch to mirrorless with a stabilized sensor - so many opportunities. :rolleyes:

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This was the same issue, to a greater degree, that rangefinder film camera users had. An RF camera with a cloth focal-plane shutter could easily get a hole burned in the shutter if pointed at the sun. But that's what lens caps are for.

 

How much longer does it take to put your hand to the front of the lens and pull off the cap as you raise the camera? And how many shots do you see that require the reflexes of a western gunslinger to capture?

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... And how many shots do you see that require the reflexes of a western gunslinger to capture?

 

Happens all the time in nature photography; however, the lens is hardly ever aimed at something bright.

 

8235683480_3906700c56_b.jpgAnother pheasant... wings-up position by David Stephens, on Flickr

 

I hardly ever have a cap on my FE 400/f2.8 or my FE 100-400mm. The hoods are on all the time, but I only cover the element when traveling, with the hood off or reversed.

 

Next time I shoot a solar eclipse, I'll keep this in mind and take extra care to rest the sensor every chance I get, even with the solar-filer mounted. Mark, interesting question.

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Happens all the time in nature photography; however, the lens is hardly ever aimed at something bright.

 

8235683480_3906700c56_b.jpgAnother pheasant... wings-up position by David Stephens, on Flickr

 

I hardly ever have a cap on my FE 400/f2.8 or my FE 100-400mm. The hoods are on all the time, but I only cover the element when traveling, with the hood off or reversed.

 

Next time I shoot a solar eclipse, I'll keep this in mind and take extra care to rest the sensor every chance I get, even with the solar-filer mounted. Mark, interesting question.

 

- Yeah, but you tend not to stalk wildlife with a handheld camera + 400mm lens slung around your neck with the lens cap off.

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The sensor could be damaged by direct sunlight, due to local overheating. However the lens must be focused at infinity and the sun directly in the field of view. There is a thick IR filter on the sensor, which would remove most of the heat from sunlight, and the camera would have to be pointed in a fixed direction. Stopping the lens down would reduce the heat exponentially. Furthermore the sun moves a distance equal to its diameter in about 5 minutes, which limits exposure on a given area. Just carrying the camera would present little chance for damage, unless you stand very, very still.

 

If you use a polar tracking device, on the sun at midday, you'd better use an eclipse filter.

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