increased edge density

Discussion in 'Large Format' started by gary_meader, Jun 19, 2003.

  1. OK, so I've heard of the increased edge density on tray
    developed sheet film for years, but now that I am doing 8x10, I
    get to experience it for myself. I'm using HP5+, D-76 in a tray.
    The tray is roughly 8x10, but there's enough room to pick the film
    up. My agaitation is; end over end, continuous and mild for the
    1st min. then the film lays in the developer for 50 sec., then
    agitation for 10 sec /min. The density problem is along the
    8"side of the negs. So what do you all do to avoid this? 8x10
    would be a lot more fun if the negs looked good! Thanks
     
  2. I'm not speaking from experience with such large film but, perhaps you should alternate end over end, with side over side?

    PJW
     
  3. Gary: I think switching to the next size larger tray might help. Good luck.
     
  4. For 50 years I've wondered why the old timers (and George Tice) always put so much emphasis on edge burning their prints. I never needed to do it, and I've shot everything from Minox to 4x5. After reading your post I finally put 2+2 together. Thanks! (PS, I think that he's right about using 11x14 trays.)
     
  5. What is end over end versus side over side agitation. I will also start tray developing soon, and would like to knoew these terms.
     
  6. Use 11x14" trays for 8x10" film (or at least for the developer tray, if you're short of space).

    Rotate the sheets 90 degrees periodically as you shuffle through them. You might divide the development time into four sections and turn the sheets 90 degrees for each section.
     
  7. Twas asked: What is end over end versus side over side agitation.

    If Gary is always picking up the sheet by the 8" end, I would think there would be more developer left on the 8" ends of the film during the course of developement. If he alternated by picking up the film along the 11" side, that would cut in half the time the extra developer was on the 8" edge. I've never developed 8x10 film in an 8x10 tray and the 8x10 paper I've developed was in much larger trays, so I'm just thinkin' out loud here. But I was taught to lift the paper by alternating all 4 sides during agitation.

    PJW
     
  8. Consider too increasing your developer dilution. The resulting longer developer time, within reason, can help even out development over the negative. Also having a greater volume of liquid also helps.
     
  9. Hello,
    Yes to larger trays, more developer soln., rotate the stack of film after each cycle of agitation, and I think you should try nearly constant agitation. Keep rotating the sheets through the stack. Letting the film sit there in a stack lets the dev. seep in at the edges but doesn't let the rest of the film get fresh solution.
     
  10. Hi,

    Using a larger tray as already suggested is a good idea and also you might want to check your film holders for light leaks. I have some older holders and I always have an area of increased density along the 8" edge that is adjacent to the slot for the dark slide. I had increased density along the hinge side until I repaired the tape.
    I hope this helps.

    Art Nichols
     
  11. Use a larger tray for sure. But that's not your problem. I bet this is
    noticeable mostly with subjects that are light in tone. The
    problem is bellows flare. Only way around it is to use an 11x14
    (or a 10x12) with an 8x10 back. If that is impossible, and I realize
    that it is (no one does that), make sure you use a lens shade.
     
  12. I've been shooting 8x10 for a short while. Of course, I do my own darkroom work. I developed my sheets in an 8x10 tray with HC-110. My agitation was picking up a side of the tray every second or two, alternating side/top every 10 seconds or so. No problems that were obvious.

    I have since switched to a Jobo CPE and 2840 drum. No problems at all. Every once in a while i get a slightly underfixed section, but it is always out of the image area, and I'm working on this problem now.
     

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