Ilford PanF Plus developed in Rodinal

During my next vacation to the Southwest, I'd like to shoot with some

Ilford PanF+ (ASA50) and develop in Rodinal. Any recommendations on

dilution and developing times would be grateful. I'll be shooting

with my Leica M6 TTL and using this film mostly in Zion and Bryce

N.P. Thanks for your help and comments!

I like this combination. Exposing at EI 50, I use Rodinal 1 + 25 for 6 minutes at 68 degrees F, with gentle agitation. There are some examples of M6TTL shots with Pan F+ in Rodinal at my web site: http://www.photos.oliversteiner.com

Rodinal isn't terribly good at bringing out the shadow detail... In a contrasty Zion and Bryce, I'd do a speed test before. I shoot it at 40 in that situation.<p>

Second consideration: highlights are easy to plug with Rod. Gentle agitation as mentioned can control them, but I like greater dilutions (1:50 at least, 1:300 in stand dev't) to help control that.<div></div>

My experience tells me that you will really need to dial this in for yourself in terms of dilution and minutes, and temperture stability of course. I used to use Rodinol (and when I get time to do silver film again, I will go back to it and or xtol).

My best results came from 1:100 for 20 minutes.....and some variation. I did have occasion to vary that depending on the film but that is a good starting point. I don't have my notes here but I seem to recall 1:75 for 16 miniutes worked too. You really should run tests and see what works for you, because even if we shot the same film and took the same times and dilutions, we would come up with different results processing in our respective darkrooms. I agree with the gentlemen who wrote ahead of me that higher dilution is a good idea. I do think you can achieve good tonal range (and shadow detail) with Rodinol. I would also suggest shooting Acros.

Good luck,

David

I agree with the previous statements about trial runs. Never shoot a new combination of film/developer on something important. I use Rodinal for all Pan f+ and FP4+ films, but I vary the speed acording to the light at the time. No shadows = rated film speed + dev time, soft shadows = cut film speed by one stop and dev time by %25, strong shadows = cut film speed by 1.3 stops and dev time by %33. Your mileage may vary...

 

- Randy

"Gentle" and incomplete agitation is the easiest way to ruin your film. You will get what some call surge marks where the spent developer is replaced and other areas where it is not resulting in mottled unevenly developed negs.

 

The best way to control contrast is more dilution and/or shorter time in the developer. You may cut the agitation cycle rate towards the end of development, but each cycle must completely replace all the used developer across the entire film surface.

 

Run tests on even toned subjects before commiting important film.

 

If whatever works for you and you are satisfied, keep doing it. I strongly caution against reduced agitation.

I second the comments about the high contrast levels at Bryce. Contrasty late afternoon light hurt my Velvia 100 shots. Personally, I would probably use FP-4 with the development held to the short side.

I third the comments on contrast concern for Zion. I had gorgeous afternoon light there back in November last year. Contrast is an issue. Be sure you're shooting and developing for that.

A others have previously stated, test first. If you can't do that before your vacation, shoot a couple of test rolls there and develop them first when you get back.

 

Here's a good article about Rodinal...

http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Rodinal/rodinal.html

 

I like Pan-f in Rodinal. I rate it at 40 ISO, and develop at 20 degrees, 1:100, for 10.5 min. Agitation is 3 inversions every 30 seconds.

Rodinal is not speed enhancing, to say the least, hence I rate PAN F at 25 or 32 ASA<p>PAN F is a high contrast film, so it needs compensating effect, hence I dilute at 1+50<p>Great combination, good luck

I would like to extend my sincere thanks to each of you for your kindness and interest in my question. I appreciate all the feedback and help that you have offered to me. When I go to these National Parks in 3 weeks, I will attempt to apply your recommendations to my work in the hopes and aspirations that my efforts will yield a positive response. It's been about 30 years since I worked in B+W, and I look forward with tremendous excitement and passion to embrace and work in this medium once again. Again, to each of you, my thanks!

rodinal is definitely the most fashionable developer out there. however, for a longer curve/better shadow detail, you really can't beat DDX with pan f plus.

 

sometimes the obvious answer is also best answer.

 

it will only cost you a roll of film and $6 to find out . . . .

and a huge second for the comments re "gentle agitation. i only use roller systems and tubes these days for roll film. never see surge marks. BTW, you don't have to buy a pricey jobo system. use a jobo tank in a generic roller that you can find on ebay for $20. makes life so much simpler.