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ID MkIII v 5D MkII


andy_martin2

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<p>I have two 5D2 bodies and love them. My only issue with the 5D2 is that in difficult lighting conditions, the AF can hunt around a bit. I mainly do event and wedding photography and naturally wouldn't want to miss an all-important shot. At my last shot which was a concert and reception, I did have difficulty at times with focusing issues. The concert was fine but I had some problem at the reception and at the arrival of the guests when I was using a 50/1.2L! While I also have a 580 ExII, I tend to shoot in available light pushing the ISO anywhere to 6400. I would be grateful for some advice as to whether it would serve me to swap one of my 5D2s for a 1D3 as I understand that the AF system on the 1D3 is perhaps more effective. With thanks in anticipation.</p>
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<p>5D2...50/1.2L</p>

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<p>Well, a slow focusing lens and a slow focusing body, what do you expect..? You know, AF is not perfect on any camera so learn how to use the manual focus ring (if only for tiny focus corrections) and you'll be a much happier person. Having said that, of course the AF subsystem on 1D3 is way more sensitive than on the 5D2 so if it is AF performance that bothers you, not your technique, get one.</p>

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<p>Hi Andrew,</p>

<p>Having owned a Mark III and then traded it for a 5D II, I can address your question with my opinion/experience. Yes the 5d II in low light really hunts to acquire AF - this is where the Mark III would be much better. On the other hand, the added weight, reduced megapixels and not-as-good image quality of the Mark III (compared to 5D II) are things to consider.</p>

<p>My recommendation if you want to go the Mark III route, would be to wait for the Mark IV (just released) that has more megapixels, better image quality (compared to Mark III) and just newer technology...If money is an issue (when isn;t it?), yes the Mark III would be fine - but from early reviews of the new Canon pro body (Mark IV), it might be a worthwhile wait/purchase...</p>

<p>The brick-like nature of the Mark III was never something I was comfortable with...and I thought image quailty was overrated for the price (bought mine new for about $4k in autumn 2007). By comparison, I am much more pleased with the 5D II - and I find that the AF is fine in good light (even for birds in flight) so long as one only uses the center AF point.</p>

<p>Again, all of these are my opinion, and it is fine for others to think I am crazy, and write alternate experiences/opinions...</p>

<p>rdc/nyc</p>

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<p>The 1.2's are abysmally slow to focus...moving that much glass around takes a while. It is true that you would probably have less hunting on a mkIII...perhaps the thing to do is rent one and see if it works for you?<br>

My experience so far has also been that while the 5d2 can produce usable results (depending on noise reduction and output size) at ISO6400, the mkIII (which I don't own but have used) produces unusable results. One more reason to rent and experiment before you buy. (Or perhaps the 1dmkIV would be a consideration once it arrives?)</p>

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<p>Related question: I've been thinking of moving up from my 30D to a 5DmII, because I thought it would do BETTER with AF in lower lighting conditions. It would, I think, allow for much faster shutter speeds because of better IQ at high ISO. But it wouldn't help that much if the camera can't focus in time. Am I wrong about this? Thanks for whatever input ...</p>
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<p>... the added weight, reduced megapixels and not-as-good image quality of the Mark III (compared to 5D II) are things to consider.</p>

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<p>Thanks Robert and everyone.<br>

Yes I too have been mindful of the downsides of the 1DIII <strong>but if it does</strong> address the AF issue, it might just be worth the tradeoff just to get that picture. I will after all still have the other 5DII. In almost every respect but one or two, the 5DII suits me fine.<br>

The 1DIV is a tempting proposition but I've just purchased the two 5DIIs in the past two months...plus some glass.... and it's over GBP4k here so that I'm afraid will have to wait.<br>

Appreciate the quick response.</p>

<p>Well Stephen</p>

 

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<p>But it wouldn't help that much if the camera can't focus in time</p>

 

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<p>That indeed has been my worry</p>

<p>I'm going into Central London over the next few days to pester a pro store I know where I've been advised I may play with their 1DIII to my heart's content.</p>

<p>Thanks again<br>

and<br>

Happy New Year Everyone</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>You're right Rodrigo.<br>

1DIII may be had for a good price here too especially if you're prepared to play a waiting game. With folk swapping their 1DIIIs for the Mk IV they are likely to be more plentiful over the coming months.<br>

I read that Jeff Ascough recommended using an EC-A microprism screen and the ST-E2 Speedlite Transmitter but I imagine they're only a help if one manually focuses. Am I right?<br>

<br /> Additionally, would I be able to overcome the AF issue, at least in part, if I were to get some fast-focusing lenses?</p>

<p>Thanks again</p>

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<p>That must be a special Portuguese market only full frame 1D3 for 2222 euro...<br>

Now to the OP: ST-E2 will help with AF (it will project AF assist beam/patern) but it might be irritating to your subjects. Fast focusing lenses may help you but how fast a lens can focus has nothing to do with the quantity of glass (my 400/2.8 L IS focuses very, very fast despite it humongo glass elements...) But try to determine whether you could improve your shooting technique, such as using manual focusing, servo AF, etc., to solve your OOF issues. 5D2 is slower than - say - the 1D/1Ds series cameras, but generally capable of good results even in less than optimal light.</p>

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<p>Nobody has asked so I'll do it, what AF modes are you shooting in? I use only main point AF and no expansion assist points, shooting weddings as well and I have no had terrible issues with low light auto focusing. I know the 5D2 is nowhere near the AF on the Mk3 when it comes to low light... but I make do with it quite well. I have also traded my mark3 for a 5d2 and have been very happy with the move.</p>

<p>cheers</p>

 

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<p>Nobody has asked so I'll do it, what AF modes are you shooting in? I use only main point AF and no expansion assist points, shooting weddings as well and I have no had terrible issues with low light auto focusing. I know the 5D2 is nowhere near the AF on the Mk3 when it comes to low light... but I make do with it quite well. I have also traded my mark3 for a 5d2 and have been very happy with the move.</p>

<p>cheers</p>

 

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<p>my 2 cents worth, i have seen some beautiful photographs taken with the 1dmkiii. i love the 1d and 1ds cameras. they are robust and built to last. i would say that if you want a fast focusing camera and the 1dmkiv is not an option at this time, go for the 1dmkiii or a 7d. i have been looking at alot of photos recently, bird photography and the photos taken with the 1dmkiii look amazing. the camera will do alot of work for you. you already have a 5dmkii. not a shabby kit, 1dmkiii and a 5dmkii.</p>
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<blockquote><br /></blockquote>

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<p>using manual focusing, servo AF, etc., to solve your OOF issues. 5D2 is slower than - say - the 1D/1Ds series cameras, but generally capable of good results even in less than optimal light.</p>

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<p>Problem with manually focusing is that it's not instant enough Michael. Perhaps a change of focusing screen may help there.</p>

 

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<p>Nobody has asked so I'll do it, what AF modes are you shooting in?</p>

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<p>Main point as well Kenny. In the vast majority of cases there are no issues. The shots of the concert were fine and the lighting was even lower then. I wonder if my experience may have had something to do with a slower-focusing 50L?</p>

 

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<p>i would say that if you want a fast focusing camera and the 1dmkiv is not an option at this time, go for the 1dmkiii or a 7d. i have been looking at alot of photos recently, bird photography and the photos taken with the 1dmkiii look amazing. <strong>the camera will do alot of work for you. you already have a 5dmkii. not a shabby kit, 1dmkiii and a 5dmkii.</strong></p>

 

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<p>Well Kyle, that's been my thinking although I have no real practical experience with the 1DIII. I've seen really good pictures taken with it as well but then that may have been down to the shooters' abilities. I really need to either hire one as suggested earlier or go play with one from sunrise to sundown ;)</p>

 

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<p>Since you are not using Flash <strong>I wonder if an STE2 would help. I use one on a 5D MKII and can get accurate focus in complete darkness.</strong> It's not that obtrusive at all and since it is infrared there's no big bright light.</p>

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<p>Thanks Peter<br>

<br /> I had wondered about the ST-E2 as well though again, no experience with that. Can one use it with an AF mode or does one need to manually focus with the ST-E2?<br>

I recall my old Pentax which had a microprism screen which when the subject was in focus, the center circle was bright and clear. Why doesn't Canon have such a screen, or do they?</p>

<p>Appreciate all your responses friends. I really feel humbled that you've all taken the time to offer your suggestions.</p>

<p>Best Wishes</p>

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<p>Problem with manually focusing is that it's not instant enough Michael. Perhaps a change of focusing screen may help there.</p>

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<p>It's all in your technique. I use quasi manual focusing all the time by simply letting the AF do its thing and adjusting the precise plane of focus manually on as needed basis (these are very slight adjustements most of the time...) It is easier to do with close-ups and higher magnifications. You know, AF points are not really "points" but areas, sometimes quite large, so getting the eye in focus may result in having the AF "point" aiming at the nose... You (or at least I) don't need any special AF screens for that; in fact I use Canon grid screens on 1D3 and 1Ds3 bodies, no micro- or split- prism "aids." Yeah, most of my shooting is action/events so I'm in the same boat like you but still, a burst of 3-4 shots with slight manual focus adjustments nearly guarantees at least one sharp shot regardless of my, or my camera's, focusing booboos, subject movement, etc.</p>

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<p>I had wondered about the ST-E2 as well though again, no experience with that. Can one use it with an AF mode or does one need to manually focus with the ST-E2?</p>

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<p>Andrew, yes, you get full AF on all focus points - not just the centre AF point and and it will work up to 40 feet indoors in literally no light. There's a CF setting you need to use to turn the flash off (there's no flash of course but it will think there is and compensate so you get underexposure unless you do this). I think it's CF7, this way the camera knows there's no flash going to fire but the assist light will still operate, you can set the assist light to operate, or not, on CF5. The ST-E2 is very lightweight (about 3 oz) and very non-obtrusive so you won't scare anyone. The light pattern is not totally invisible (it's an crosshatch red pattern but very dim) so you might want to watch that is doesn't show up in closeup video, I've never had a problem with it though. It uses a small cell battery which seems to last forever, certainly 1,000's of shots but you should keep one packed away in case you run out on a shoot. You might look on Fred Miranda for a used one, I've seen them there for good prices.</p>

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<p>I thought I'd add something that I discovered while looking at the football masterclass on Canon's Professional site as suggested by Kyle.<br>

John McDermott using a 1DIII suggested turning off ' Focus Search ' to stop the AF from hunting all the way to infinity and back. Well I then tried setting Custom Function III Option 1 on the 5DII to disable focus search and thus far I've had no AF hunting issues. I'll report back as I learn more for those who may be interested.<br>

Thanks Kyle and Happy 2010 everyone</p>

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