ID-11; D-76

Discussion in 'Black and White' started by ken_kuzenski, Dec 20, 2014.

  1. I haven't found this on the web in a few quick searches; maybe someone here can advise me. After a few years of shooting no film, I dragged out the medium format gear a few months ago. I'm having a world of fun, but I'm on new ground. Since the early 1990s, I shot only TMX and TMY with T-max developer. On my return to B&W a few months ago, I started shooting FP4 and HP5 and developing it in ID-11. I love the skin tones I've been getting with this combination, and it seems nice for my pre-dawn shooting (link below.) But the ID-11 kit makes 5 liters, and as an American, it would be easier for me to use a one-gallon stock solution. Like D-76, for instance.
    I've been using the ID-11 at 1:3 dilution, one shot, using 20 minutes for both FP4 and HP5. This is with two 120 rolls in a developing tank. Every source I see says that D-76 and ID-11 are basically the same chemicals. But I haven't found a source yet saying that one-time use at 1:3 dilution and 20 minutes of development is right for HP4/FP5 in D-76.
    Is anybody familar with this combination? Am I on safe ground using the same time/dilution? Many thanks in advance! --ken
  2. Well the MDC shows 20 min for 1-3 for ID-11 and D-76 in their charts.
    For what you asked for.
  3. thank you, Larry! Wow that is an
    amazing website thanks so much
    for the tip! The world has
    changed greatly since I was
    young. (for one thing, the
    dinosaurs no longer make a mess
    in my yard) :)
  4. I sure do miss all that free fertilizer though. You are welcome.
  5. Ilford calls for slightly shorter times for FP4+ and HP5+ in D-76 (1+3) than for ID-11 (1+3). They call out ID-11 (1+3) for maximum sharpness. I'd agree with that, you will have no solvent effect from the sodium sulfite in the developer, which will lead to a sharp image, but with rather more defined (crisp) grain than ID-11 straight up. At full strength, the sodium sulfite blurs the grain some, making it less evident, but at a cost of sharpness.
    Both data sheets are on their website.
    They don't give HD curves for different developers and dilutions in these data sheets, but this dilution will certainly give a different HD curve, and thus different tonality.
  6. And with any thing Your camera my also make a Difference. Starting points you already have with your Camera and developer so if you see a change you can adjust. This is one of the easier ones. One time I had to Get D-76 to work at 1-5 solutions in a Rotary machine.... It worked but OMG it was not worth the savings....
  7. I think you may like 1-2 better.
  8. My understanding is that D-76 and ID-11 are identical, not just similar, so you should be able to do the same in either. 20 minutes sounds way too long even at 1:3. I don't have charts in front of me but around 5-6 minutes with straight D-76 at 75F is normal for Tri-X, maybe 8 minutes at 1:1. Never hard of anyone using it 1:3. You should not be doing FP4 and HP5 together. B&W films with different speeds take different times.
  9. Craig is right. The formulas are identical. Both are:
    2 g Metol (Kodak calls it "Kodak Elon")
    100 g Sodium Sulfite, anhydrous (Ilford spells it "Sulphite")
    5 g Hydroquinone
    2 g Borax (Kodak adds "granular")
    Water to make 1 liter
    The Kodak reference is "Processing Chemicals and Formulas", 6th edition (1963; Kodak Professional Data Book J-1). The Ilford reference is _The Ilford Manual of Photography_, Alan Horder ed., 5th edition (c) 1958
  10. "You should not be doing FP4 and HP5 together. B&W films with different speeds take different times."

    The Ilford datasheets I looked at listed 20m for both films at 1:3 one-shot. That was actually one of the reasons I decided to try Ilford--it struck me as a real convenience, being able to do both in one tank. I'm really enjoying the Ilford films; they don't seem quite as crisp as TMX and TMY, but I've been getting some great skin tones, and it seems pretty forgiving of my very casual approach to metering. (I've got two flash meters, two ambient meters, and a spotmeter, but I often wind up leaving the meter in the bag and just using "sunny 16." :)
  11. D-76 tends to gain a bit of activity on sitting after mixing. ID11 does not.
    Both are good developers and work well for many.
    You might try Pyrocat HD which works well and really helps with holding highlights.

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