I'be been approached by a Home Builder

Hi Everyone.

 

I've recently been approached by a homebuilder, to take photos of there model

homes, inside and out. I need a place to start. I've never done anything like

this, but I would like to try. I'm looking for some advice as to where to

start. The reading that I have done has suggested a large format camera and

hotlights. I'm shooting with a 30D, and am not in a position to buy a large

format camera. My camera should work right? Which lens is best used? Lights?

Etc.. Any info. would be great.

 

Thank you.

I assume you wish to avoid excessive expense (it is always possible to spend thousands on any project). When we photograph homes for an article in the paper we use a digital SLR and ultra-wide lens. I have used an 18mm but the 10-12mm is much better. You will use a tripod and set the ISO as low as it goes. Use the smallest apature you can to maintain DOF. You should be able to use available light and correct for shadows and hot spots in Photoshop. That leaves distortion. You can correct for distortion in PS. The use of the 4X5 is to allow for distortion correction rather than format size.

 

If your camera allows remote flash control you can place your speed light(s) for fill. Sometimes very simple bounce is all that is needed using the camera mounted flash. (Not the built in flash).

 

You can have the builder give you access before and after the models are open or on a day they are closed. This allows you to take your laptop really work through your shots. As an aside. If the budget is really tight you can get some simple clamp-on floods from Home Despot and use these for fill as you are correcting for WB in PS.

 

If you are shooting outside consider the time of day you shoot. You will love the colors early and late. Careful of shadow detail on bright days. Again, look at perspective issues in PS.

 

Even if you are working with an 18-? zoom you can get some pretty credible shots. Give it a try. It should be fun.

Google up 'archetectural photography', 'photogaphing houses tutorial', or the like, and start reading.

 

Lighting can be overcome with off-camera electronic flash(es) and a cheap tripod or two to set them on. Your 30D is certainly capable of that.

 

While the movements of LF would be nice, you don't really need it with PP software like Photoshop or DxO.

 

If the homes will be advertised online, to impress your client, get into QTVR.

 

Canon's 10-20mm zoom would be very useful indoors.

Thanks. I'll price that lens. Since some of these photos will be enlarged and mounted for their offices... Outside shots, what ISO will I NOT want to go over? I don't want to have to worry about grain.

Given the nature of your questions I think , no matter how much or how little you are

charging, you are going to be in over your head as they are planning on using these

photos to advertise their work. Presumably that means they need the best possible end

results.

 

Photographing architecture for this purpose is 90-95% styling and lighting. Essentially you

are both a set designer and lighting designer who then documents that work with a

camera.

 

At a minimum you'll need the camera on a tripod and the camera precisely leveled , then

you 'll need to blend the indoor and outdoor existing light with any lights you need to

supplement that ambioent with . You'll have to organize the furniture and details of the

room so they

look best from the camera's point of view: That means not only deciding what should

be in the frame and what should not be in the frame , but also organize the furniture ,

plants, etc. and lighting so that

the viewers' eye flows through the photograph in way that feels natural. Plan on spending

2-3

hours per room. You'll als ohave to "groom" the room for all of those little persnickity

details which make the room look attractive which can include raking any carpets so they

look fresh and attractive and even may be changing wattages of bulbs to help the

composition. You'll need to color balance the lights -- not just for proper white balance

but also for best mopst positive psychological impact.

 

It is always better, faster and cheaper to fix these problems before hand rather than

relying on Photoshop to clean up the garbage from bad pics in the first place.

 

But as to your ISO question: 100-125.

 

Despite my cautions: who knows, maybe you are a born master at this kind of work?

Thanks everyone.

Elis - We will see. To begin with, I was only considering the exterior. I know that the interior would be nuts! And, unless I can work with a professional prior to this, I was only going to attempt the outside.

 

The houses shown in magazines, often look as though there are additional lights pointing toward the house.. (all lights in house on), maybe the photographer has lights pointing toward the house? Thats why I was concerned with grain.. So, if its at sunset or right before, what do you want your iso at?

Builders and construction subcontractors seem to engender a large percentage of the civil lawsuits in any courthouse, typically because somebody did not pay for work they got. Make sure your contract with the customer is as bulletproof as you can make it, or else you may get screwed. Bob Bollinger, Attorney at Law