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I Want To Do Emulsion Lifts. Camera for close up photography?


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Hi. This forum seems to have the most interest in alternative forms of

photography so I decided to post here. This is what I want to do. I've

been creating photographs in Adobe Photoshop Elements and printing

them out on my Olympus P-10. It only prints up to 4" x 6". I'd like to

make copies of the photos using Polaroid 669 film and experiment with

emulsion lifts. I don't want to have to bother with having slides made

and using a Daylab. I just want to re-photograph the prints from my

printer and experiment with Polaroid emulsion lifts. My question is

this- what Polaroid camera should I look to to experiment with this? I

don't want to bother with one of the expensive "pro" ones like the

600SE. Would any of the cheaper ones on ebay allow me to get in close

enough for what I'm wanting to do and still let me shoot with 669?

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Polaroid made copy stands. Getting one on eBay is probably your best bet.

 

Polaroid also made push-on close-up lens kits for their cameras. (Complete with a tape measure built into the case.) I used the kit to do transfers with a converted 110A and liked the results, but I wasn't trying to copy flat art. I don't know if they'd get close enough for full-frame on a 4X6 photo, but you'd have to be lucky, as you're guess-focusing and guess-framing.

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Any of the glass-lens pack film cameras (100, 250, 350, 360, 450 are the recommended models because of the Scene Selector) will accept the #473 or #563 close-up kit; this will allow focusing down to nine inches, approximately 1:2, on a camera that will likely cost you $10 plus shipping, and another $2 to replace the corroded, proprietary battery connectors with a common 2xAAA battery holder (which, with a little care, will fit inside the original battery compartment). The close-up kits are a little harder to find than the cameras, but still shouldn't run as much as $20 plus shipping with the diopter lens, VF/RF corrector, and diffuser(s) for the 268 (and 490, in the newer kits) flash. Set up with external hot lights, the camera's auto exposure will work correctly up to 10 seconds (the last models, 350/360/450 may go longer than that), so flash isn't a requirement.

 

I have a 350 and #473, BTW, and on mine, the rangefinder and corrected parallax frame are both accurate with the close-up kit mounted; it's a very sweet setup even for ten times what these kits cost (especially given the film choices and 15 to 90 second results -- note that the 250 and later models have a development timer built in as well; the 350 timer, at least, is a self-starting electronic unit, very nice to use).

 

All of these models have a tripod socket; you're likely to also want either a #191 cable release (proprietary to the folding pack-film Polaroids) or #192 self timer (likewise) to avoid camera movement, though it shouldn't be hard for someone handy with machine tools to make an adapter to fit the Polaroid shutter release and accept a conventional cable release or Autoknips type self timer.

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