Jump to content

I see nothing, HELP.


darryl_roberts1

Recommended Posts

Hi,

 

I bought a Cambo 4x5 and a FUJINON SWD 90mm 5.6. I finally have it mounted on

the front lens board thanks to the Rodenstock spanner wrench. Problem, I don't

see anything on the ground glass.

 

Yes, the lens caps are off, I opened the lens preview button, I cocked the

shutter, tried everything I could think of. The lens is in great shape.

 

Please help if you can.

 

Darryl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Darryl, What if you take off the lens board and look at the lens?

 

1. If the preview button is on, then you should be able to see through the lens.

2. If you're stopped down much, you're going to have a hard time viewing an image on the ground glass. Make sure you're all the way opened up at f/5.6.

3. Do you have a dark cloth to throw over your head and camera to aid in composing and focusing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Darryl,

The 90mm lens is a relatively short focal length. To focus at infinity

your bellows must be compressed quite a bit. I have the same lens myself. Although the f5.6 lens is faster than the f/8 version you will notice brighter imagery in the center of your ground glass with light

falling off at the corners. I find that to view the image in the corners I must move my head considerably. I'm hoping the problem is as simple as this.

 

good luck,

Walter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, it needs to be "foggy" looking, hence it's name, ground glass. If it were transparent glass, there would be no film plane for the image to be focused on to, hence it is opaque.

 

Large format cameras tend to be much more difficult to focus with because they don't project as brightly as something like a 35mm SLR camera. The center of the lens (around the shutter) to the ground glass should be approximately 90mm in order for it to focus properly. If it is too out of focus, then the image appears darker as well, just like using a macro on a bellows or extension tube reduces the light to the film plane.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4x5 acid etched glass, which is brighter than most regular "ground" glass is $40. You do NOT have to pay $275. Just make sure before ordering that your lens is pointed at something very bright and visible when you focus. Also, as said above, be sure that you are in the correct focusing range. For 90mm the rear of the lens will be about 4 inches from the glass.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Darryl,

 

wait buying a new groundglass. If this is your first LF camera, then I suspect that you are just not used to viewing on a groundglass - it is NOTHING like looking through a viewfinder of a regular camera. Yes, the image on the groundglass is ALWAYS faint compared to a viewfinder. Make sure that your darkcloth does not allow any stray light to get in - and then look again. The picture on the GG will be inverted, which also takes some getting used to. A 90mm lens is probably not the best starter lens because it tends to have a hot-spot in the middle of the GG - try a 150mm lens or 210 lens and the view will be greatly enhanced.

 

I suspect there is nothing wrong with your existing GG and that you just have the LF-looking-at-the-Groundglass shock:-) We all went through that!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First try focusing on a light bulb or some such very bright target, that should be easy.

 

Make sure the preview is open and the lens is opened up all the way.

 

If you see a blurred image then your lens is probably too far in front of the film plane.

 

I'm sure you don't have a film holder in place... but if you do that would block the image.

 

I've seen a great range of brightness in ground glasses but never one so feint that you don't see an image under a dark cloth with a lens all the way open.

 

What do you see if you remove the lens and look through the camera?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's still blurry with the bellows all the way compressed, it could mean that your bellows are too long for wide angle lenses and you need a bag bellows to allow shorter distances between the film and the lens. To test this out, take off the bellows and try focusing on something outside from within a darkened room. If you can focus without the bellows, then that's likely the problem. Sorry I don't know the Cambo camera that well.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it possible that your bellows does not compress enough to focus a 90mm lens. Your problem is not the groundglass - it sounds lie you can't focus that lens. Try focusing on something very close to the lens - it means that you have to rack out the bellows more - see if the picture comes into focus.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Set the lens wide open (f5.6) and open the preview lever. Focus your eyes on the ground glass as if you were going to read something written on the ground glass. Arrange the dark cloth so that very little ambient light reaches the ground glass. You don't want other light to wash out the image projected by the lens. Adjust the focus of the camera until the image is sharp.

 

On some view cameras, or on some cameras with a standard bellows, it isn't possible to focus a 90 mm lens, because the standards can't be made close enough. You need to be able to place the lensboard about 90 mm in front of the ground glass. If you can't seem to focus on a distant object, try focusing on an object at a few yards distance, because the standards don't have to be as close. If you move the standards close enough, some options: on some cameras you have to move the front standard behind the tripod block, or you might need to use a recessed lensboard, or use a bag bellows.

 

Ashton's suggestion of trying to focus on a light bulb is excellent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To add a bit more... many geared standards travel along a geared track on the mono-rail. It may be that one knob on the bottom of the standard is the know to move forward and back, and on the opposing side there is a knob to "lock down" the focus. If this is the case, you open the "locking knob", move the standard until you hit focus, then re-tighten the locking side.

 

Once you get to see some image, then you can get fancier. For instance with a wide lens you need to be sure that the front standard is forward enough to keep the monorail out of the frame... then you scoot the rear standard up to focus. With a lot of monorails you only need a short section of rail for a short lens. And as someone mentioned, the tripodattachment is ususlaly kept between the two standards for balance. If it impedes the movement of the standards, it can be moved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...