HP5 processing

I live in California and have had mixed result with commercial labs. I no longer process my films at home. Any suggestion I live in Sacramento.

Cheers, Albert

Mikes Camera 2200 J St, Sacramento, CA 95816. From what I have seen of their work, they do a good job. The people at Mikes are quite helpful. Mikes processes both Black & White and Color.

 

I have used them a few times for color; I do my own black and white. I have them develop, then I scan with my Coolscan V, process in Photoshop and upload to Costco for printing. Why Costco for printing instead of Mikes? Costco profiles their printers and publishes the profiles. I convert to their profile before I upload for printing. Also Costco is much closer to my home in Elk Grove than Mikes so I can easily drive over to collect my prints, and parking is not a problem.

All of the local places that did C-41 have gone. Since sending it out is necessary, I send my chromogenic and color negative work to Dwayne's (link). I'm planning to send my test roll of Ektachrome 100 there too.

 

I do my own scanning, and develop anything that can be done in it, in D-76. The catch is that the developer tends to age out before I use it up. I'm looking for something that can be made up in smaller batches - HC110?

All of the local places that did C-41 have gone. Since sending it out is necessary, I send my chromogenic and color negative work to Dwayne's (link). I'm planning to send my test roll of Ektachrome 100 there too.

 

I do my own scanning, and develop anything that can be done in it, in D-76. The catch is that the developer tends to age out before I use it up. I'm looking for something that can be made up in smaller batches - HC110?

 

 

Rodinal - keeps "forever" and can be made as a one shot in whatever quantity you need at the time.

HC110 has good shelf life as well. At most dilutions it will deliver finer grain than Rodinal. Take a slow film, though, and the ability to produce high sharpness is a strength of Rodinal. It will emphasize grain in faster films, such as Tri-X. Properly done, though, the grain with Tri-X is sharp and is an effect that some find pleasing. Ironically, a more modern film, Kodak TMAX 100 actually looks good in Rodinal (IMHO). Very sharp and grain not a problem.

Thanks, appreciate the advice.:)

All of the local places that did C-41 have gone. Since sending it out is necessary, I send my chromogenic and color negative work to Dwayne's (link). I'm planning to send my test roll of Ektachrome 100 there too.

 

I do my own scanning, and develop anything that can be done in it, in D-76. The catch is that the developer tends to age out before I use it up. I'm looking for something that can be made up in smaller batches - HC110?

 

My last two rolls of Ektachrome E100 were developed and scanned by Dwayne's and the did a good job. They also numbered the mounted slides.

I also use Dwayne's for C41. I usually send 3 or 4 rolls at a time. I haven't tried the new Ektachrome yet, but when I do I will use Dwayne's.

I'm looking for something that can be made up in smaller batches - HC110?

 

Give HC-110 a try JD. The concentrate keeps for a very long time. HC-110 also gives a lot closer look to D-76, in terms of grain size and contrast. Never liked the look or golf ball grain of Rodinal, but some people obviously do.

 

Incidentally, you can make a very good approximation to Rodinal using 'household' chemicals. Basically just Paracetamol (Acetaminophen) tablets, sodium hydroxide (caustic soda sold as drain cleaner) and sodium or potassium metabisulphite (wine preservative/food container cleanser).

 

I've posted the formula and preparation method elsewhere on PN. Unfortunately, the homemade substitute is an almost exact clone of Rodinal and gives the same nasty grain and tendency to high contrast.

I think you should get back to home development. Developing Ilford films couldn't be simpler. Their film emulsions are prehardend in manufacture so, no hardening fixer should be used and wash times are far less. They have recently come out with their 'Simplicity' line of development products, small volume development packets for up to two 35mm rolls or one 120 roll for less than five bucks per packet. Sold individually or in a starter kit:

 

Ilford Simplicity Starter Pack | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

 

As mentioned HC-110 last for an incredibly long time but it only comes in 1 liter bottles which is quite a bit and maybe too much to have on hand if you are really only occasionally developing a roll.

 

Check out Caffenol for made at home one shot use

D-76 and many other developers are trivially easy to make. I haven't bought commercial chemistry in forever, and just keep raw chems on hand. All you really need is a scale, and digitals or used pan balances are a dime a dozen these days. Mix as much or as little as you need. Check out what Photographers Formulary has.

 

I like some of the Crawley formulas a lot, like FX-37. It does both t-grains and regular films well.

The D76 formula is given in "Processing Chemicals and Formulas for Black and White Photography",

and yes I just looked up the prices from Photographers Formulary, and they aren't so bad.

 

It is the Kodak 1 liter D76 that is overpriced, slightly less than the gallon bag.

(Not to mention the inconsistent units.)

 

The important parts of D76 are 2g/L Elon/Metol and 5g/L hydroquinone, which are reasonably

priced in 100g quantities. I presume that they last a while if kept dry and closed.

I process my HP5 in D76 and wouldn't dream of letting a commercial lab near my B&W. To get good results, I have to be able to control the contrast of the film. The only way to do this is by controlling the film's time in the developer.

 

Color film, definitely in a commercial lab. B&W, Never.