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How useful is FH-3 for Coolscan V?


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I have a Nikon Coolscan V, which works pretty well. However, I do sometimes

encounter the problem that the frame is out of focus at the ends of the

film strip - sometimes, maybe 5% of one of the end frames will be soft. (This

really is a scanner problem, not a problem with the image, since it's not

soft if one manualy sets the focus point there, though then everything else

is soft.)

 

I've wondered

whether this problem could be fixed by using the optional film holder, FH-3 (which

I don't have yet). The manual

presents this as a way of scanning single frames or damaged frames, not

mentioning any improvement in film flatness, but it seems like one might

expect a benefit in that respect.

 

Has anyone tried the FH-3, and can say whether it keeps the film flatter

than just using the regular adaptor? And how convenient is it to use?

 

Thanks,

 

Radford

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It is insanely useful and Nikon does not make them any more. It is not avaiable at any vendor in the US. The profiting at ebay sees them going for 100+ easily. Shame that Nikon can't make a minimum amount and charge double the items orignial price of 25$. Even odder it does not come as a standard item with all scanner models. But, I have talked a few times with the usual customer service numbers and got the blank stare response.
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I think you'll find one with enough patience, but you shouldn't delay.

 

If it were me, I'd place orders wherever they claimed to take them, hoping that somebody would come through.

 

It does work beautifully in terms of sharpness, but it's a genuine hassle to use. You need cotton gloves because you need to actually grip the film, not just the edges, to get good positioning.

 

The thing's so frail-seeming that I handle mine with extreme care, doubting I can replace it.

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Les did the smart thing. One sold recently on Bay for $135, outrageous for something that sold for $25 just a year ago.

 

As to "flimsy," it's much worse than the old Polaroid. Flimsy because it consists of 4 critical layers of plastic in a 1/8" thick gizmo with an eventually-certain-to-break plastic lock.

 

The motorized SA21 holds film equally flat, except at ends of strips.

 

SA21 with Nikonscan advances by reading frame lines but Vuescan advances it only by measured distance, a hassle, so when I shoot color negative and don't need Vuescan's "slight grain reduction" I use Nikonscan with SA21...much more efficient.

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in a related question, how about building an AN glass film holder for the V? I've seriously considered moving up to a 9000 just so I can get my damn film flat. It's been a big problem for me. I have the FH-3 but still get bowing in the middle of the frame. And yes, I store my film flat, weighted with books, etc...
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I've never bothered to save an OOF scan, just kept repositioning until I got it flat. I can end up getting it right, it's just such a hassle to get the film flat and lined up perfectly between the cross ribs on the FH3. I'd prefer a glass sandwich that I can just throw the film down and be done with it (as long as it doesn't rob sharpness). This may sound like much ado about nothing, but these days if my film workflow is too arduous, it simply doesn't happen.

 

The motorized transport is a non starter for me since it crops off such a significant portion of the long edges.

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Can't explain that. Using the motorized transport cuts the frame down to 22x36 for me. I've measured it. It does capture a black frame on the long edges, presumably shadowed by the transport, so it appears like the full frame until you notice cropped subjects etc.
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  • 3 weeks later...

I picked up my FH-3 from Vistek yesterday, and it works well. I don't know why there seems to be no problem getting one here, if

they're in short supply elsewhere.

 

I find that compared with the SA-20, the FH-3 in the MA-21 gives

a slightly wider scan (by about 0.4 mm), but you lose a similar

amount in the long direction. Typical image size is 5612x3804

for the FH-3 versus 5679x3738 for the SA-20. Examining the film

itself, one can see that there is a very slight amount along the

edges not picked up with the FH-3. I don't think it's a big issue.

 

More important is the softness at the edge of a frame at the end

of a strip. The FH-3 does seem to solve this problem, and maybe

give slightly better results elsewhere too. I've attached a 100%

crop from the middle of such an edge, scanned with the SA-20, showing

how it's softer near the edge than further in. The next post has

the same thing but scanned with the FH-3 in the MA-21.<div>00KUXF-35688484.thumb.jpg.07d47c997e8a72d139f2b4f305f99dc2.jpg</div>

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