How to repair Rollei 35 loose lens tube?

Just today I received a nice Rollei 35 TE, in fine operating
condition. But, it does need attention in that the lens tube does
not stay retracted. Tip the camera forward the slightest and the lens
tube flops outward by itself. To correct this, what component needs
adjustment or replacement, and how is this done? Thank you Rollei 35
experts for your tutorial help.

 

I don't know that there is anything you can do to increase the friction. I can't tell if it's metal-on-metal or if Rollei used some felt-like fabric.

Either way, I can't think of a way to increase the friction other than the complete removal of the lens and replacement or addition of some type of material.

The bigger concern would be to ensure that there is no light leaking into the film chamber when the lens is retracted.

 

Hi Daryl -

The Rollei 35 has a lot packed into a small package. I don't know how easy repair might be.

However, if you're still undaunted, look farther down this forum and there is a thread by Nicolas Douez regarding a free copy of the Rollei 35 repair manual.

I emailed him but didn't get one. Maybe you'll have better luck. On the other hand it was April 1st.

Good luck.

 

Daryl : this is not the sign of a defective camera. There is no original friction material, just the Tessar lens barrel sliding in the camera front plate dedicated round window.

I've used and serviced many Rollei 35. On some, the lens may be a bit hard to collapse, on some others, it may not stay in place once collapsed if you put the camera upside down or handle it by the wriststrap.

As the lens has to be flopped out and LOCKED in place to take pictures, and as, when it's collapsed, it is not to take pictures, but to have the camera put in a pocket or in the case, well, what's the trouble ?

Rather a bit too free lens than a too tight one.

Richard : I've sent the .pdf file to you TWICE but immediatly got it back from your mailer-daemon twice as well. Your e-mail software and/or account does not permit the reception of such a big attached file. Set your e-mail account so that it accepts attached files up to 12MB, e-mail me when it's done, I'll send it once and again.

=

 

BTW Richard, ask the large dozen of that forum fellows I have sent the Rollei 35 repair manual as a .pdf or a .zip file, they will tell you, if it was an April 1st offer...

(=

 

Thank you all for your replies. It is strange that these cameras do vary in mechanical tolerances, but likely the variance is due to overall use and subsequent wear. My newish 35S has a very snug lens tube which has no tendency to flop out whatsoever. To extend the tube on it, I must grasp the focus ring and with moderate effort pull the tube forward to fully extend it. The lens tube stays snugly in place otherwise. Likewise, an early Germany Rollei 35 I recently acquired also has an ideal amount of friction between the lens tube and camera body. This 35 TE in question is quite the opposite. Perhaps I shall become accustomed to this quirk, but my initial impression is that the tendency to flop open could become an annoyance, even if it presents no other problem. After shooting a few rolls with it, I shall perhaps be able to render a better judgment on it. Thank you once again for your kind replies.

 

My free Hotmail account was able to receive the manual, but my (rather expensive) Verizon account would not.

 

Hi Nicolas -

"Richard : I've sent the .pdf file to you TWICE but immediatly got it back from your mailer-daemon twice as well. Your e-mail software and/or account does not permit the reception of such a big attached file. Set your e-mail account so that it accepts attached files up to 12MB, e-mail me when it's done, I'll send it once and again."

Your original post stated that the file (.pdf) was 8.4MB. I have 10MB of email space available so I did not think it would be an issue.
Unfortunately, I don't care to increase my space to the next level (110MB)since there's a charge.

Thanks again for your generous offer and I apologize if you were offended by my comment to Daryl.

Sincerely, Richard.

 

The problem with files attached to an e-mail regards the encoding. So, the .pdf file is 8.494MB, but once attached to an e-mail (and encoded) it's between 11MB and 12MB, depending on how the e-mail software encodes it.

I have a .zip file of that Rollei 35 repair manual that is 8.160 MB, alas once encoded it's still over 10MB.

I just compressed the .pdf file with WinRar and the .rar archive is 7.485MB so that it should be slightly under 10MB if attached to an e-mail actually.

Otherwise I would advice a free webmail account, they are very convenient, fast to create, and generally offer around 250MB as a storage space for attached files.

The Rollei 35 repair manual is still available, Richard, so don't wait for 04/01/2006 to request it ;-)

 

Nicolas, more effort I know, but you could split it into two or three .zip volumes and send them out on different days.

Maybe someone would be kind enough to host it. Photo.net actually allows large PDF files to be attached to threads, though I don't know if they'd like it.

 

Alas I can't split it into different separated files : it was protected by the original author against such scelerate actions The best I can do is a .rar achive that is finally 8.110MB and not 7.495MB as written yesterday even with the max. compression. The .zip archive is 8.160MB, the original .pdf is 8.494MB. Maybe I might send it to Rick Oleson who could post it as a downloadable on his webpages ? BTW, if you wish you could see the inside of a Rollei 35, just look at the attached pics - one can see that the lens barrel slides metal to metal through its circular chrome window in the front plate. A spare full shutter module I carefully keep, in case of...

 

2/4

 

3/4

 

4/4

 

Nick,
Thank you for suggesting the repair manual. I managed to locate one and have found a component part being shown that might have a role in the mystery of the loose lens tube. On plate 1.05.0204 are shown parts in position 69-70 and another at position 71. 69-70 are felt strips that appear to surround the tube, and 71 is a paper strip that also surrounds the tube. Might these components serve to provide a slide surface for the tube, and perhaps some friction too, that would hold the tube in place until pulled out? What do you think?

 

Nick,
I neglected to point out that these strips appear to be linings for the guide flange(73).

 

I just looked at my manual diagrams. You are probably right. So, the guide flange (73) might hide the felt and paper strips (69, 70, 71) once fitted to the shutter platine. I have removed Rollei 35 lens barrels thrice, but didn't inspect the inside of the guide flange - I don't remember what can be seen once it's done. These strips might be abused on your camera.

The replacement of the defective strips is possible, just because everything is possible...

The total dissassembly of the front/shutter platine is necessary, then you will have to remove the lens barrel from the shutter platine (quite easy, from the rear), and then you will get access to the strips once you have removed the guide flange.

Original Rollei 35 parts are very hard if not impossible to find. But I assume that you can make replacement felt and paper strips yourself. That's what I'd do.

Keep in mind that the shutter platine has to be removed from the front of the camera. You will have to dismantle the two selectors (speeds, apertures) and their matching mech. and cams. The old leatherette will certainly suffer much because you will have to unglue it from both sides to get access to the 4 screws that link the front cover to the shutter platine, and then to remove the shutter platine from the camera main body.

A well known Japanese eBay seller or Morgan S. from xxxleather.xxx can provide replacement leatherette kits, so the leatherette is not a major issue.

Just think of what Mike Elek wrote about the possible light leak. If that strips issue didn't bring out any problem regarding that important matter, I WOULD NOT dissassemble the whole camera if it was mine.

You might also think of just applying a bit of some special grease on the lens barrel, that would rejuvenate the strips while being in contact with them each time you pull or push the lens.

Good luck !

 

Just jumping in on this thread, I wish to thank Nicolas for the manual, which came through fine. As it happens, I may not need it except for recreational reading, since the shop I bought my 35 from took it back and fixed the slow speed escapement and readjusted the meter for no charge, despite having sold it very cheaply in the first place. Even for a Schneider-equipped model with dented corners it comes out a pretty good bargain at 60 bucks when you get that sort of service. So I'll throw in a plug for Vermont Camera Works while I'm at it.

 

Hi Matthew,
Just wondering if you still have the manual that Nicolas sent you? I have tried to contact Nicolas for a copy of the manual but have not heard from him. So I am appealing to all Rollei 35 users if any could spare me a copy of the manual for doing a CLA on my Rollei. The reason is that no service centre here in Melbourne, Australia, offer service to my Rollei 35. Most even add that the Rollei 35's are more trouble than the service cost, with most coming back with problems after CLA, and so would not accept the camera at all! Any help here will be greatly appreciated.

 

If anyone could send me the repair manual to xyzATtexmotoDOTcom I would appreciate it
very much. I have a Rollei 35 with sticky slow speeds and I'd love to fix it and start taking
pictures.

Thanks,
Miguel Asensio

 

I've just uploaded the Rollei 35 Service Manual, in PDF format, to Rapidshare. It is 8,494kB in size. The link:

http://rapidshare.com/files/26058675/Rollei_35_Service_Manual.pdf.html

Have fun!

acolla
andersoncolla13 (at) yahoo.com.br
rio de janeiro/brazil

 

Dear All,
I need some help on removal of one of my Rollei35S's shutter lever "boomerang" (see attached pic - circled in red). In order to loosen the screw, should I try to turn it counterclockwise or clockwise? I tried counterclockwise but it seems to be fairly tight. Should I also hold the "boomerang" when loosening the screw or just let it go?
Thank you very much in advance.
Feng