How to remove builtin lens hood from Fuji GW690II?

Discussion in 'Medium Format' started by stefan_dalibor, Mar 25, 1999.

  1. I have a Fuji GW690II, and the builtin (retractable, but undetachable) lens hood gets in the way - I want to use a polarizer, and the fact that the aperture and shutter controls can't be reached if the hood is retracted makes manipulation of the filter/exposure-controls really a pain in the neck.<p>
    Does anybody know what it takes to remove the lenshood? Can this only be done as an irreversible action (involving a hacksaw), or has the front part of the lens to be disassembled (requiring a pro technician)?<p>
    Of course, I would like to have it the best of all worlds: Dismantle it by myself (without damaging the camera), with the option of reattaching it if I feel I need it again (or decide to sell the camera).<p>
    I'm afraid Fujico made this option unavailable, but as some of the readers seem to use a Fuji 6x9 for professional work (and so certainly have used polarizers on it), perhaps one of them knows how to do the trick?<p>
    TIA<p>
    Stefan
     
  2. Stefan: I have the gw690III which had the hood removed at the factory by the original owner. Based on mine, it would be impossible to put it back on, becuase I believe it was cut off. But there is no evidence, no scratches or rough edges. B.
     
  3. I am sure you are aware, since your are using a rangefinder camera, you have to determine the position of the polarizer before you attach it to the lens. Therefore, you will not be rotating the polarizer while it is on the lens. The hood will not be a factor, and to prevent flare, you would always want to use the hood!
     
  4. Bruce: Of course I know that I have to adjust the polarizer in advance - it's the amount of fumbling that embarasses me (i.e. having to pull the hood out, for adjusting the exposure control, and in for the polarizer, and out if I decide I need a half f-stop less...).<p>
    And if that doesn't sound enough to you, think about the drama when experimenting with a split-grad filter: having to unscrew and take off the whole filter assembly for changing exposure control!<p>
    Refering to flare, I have taken shots directly into the sun, and have had no flare-related problems up to now (regardless wether I used the lens hood or not). The coating/internal baffling of the lens/camera seem so good that I'm ready to give it a try w/o hood. I'd just prefer to have the option of restoring the hood, in case I erred :)... I guess I can't get used to the idea of cutting something irrecoverably off a precision tool like the Fuji. And there must be a better way (after all, the hood is a moveable part!)...<p>
    Stefan
     
  5. Hi Stefan. Polarisers with the Fujis can be a bit of a problem. Sounds like you're using a square filter system. I decided to go with regular screw in filters - but these can cause further problems. I asked a few questions about this in a previous thread, which you may find useful: Fuji GW670III and Heliopan polariser problem
     
  6. Hi Stefan..

    For rangefinders I use one round filter on the lense and a separate smaller filter on a lanyard for viewing. The angle on the viewing filter is then transfered to the lens filter. It would be straightforward to attach a lump or bead to the rotating ring of the lens filter so that you can orient it and rotate with a pencil etc without moving the lenshood in and out. Saving the lenshood is a good idea to reduce flare and minimize the number of pieces to pack. Cheers..
     

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